so for the past month i've been having a problem that when i shift to neutral and coast to a stop, the rpm's will drop so low that the car turns off.. ALSO, when sitting at a light, the rpm;s drop so low that the car begins to shake something fierce and occasionally turn off. this infuriates me because my 06 tc NEVER did this and my 94 civic, which is upgraded to hell and tuned, doesn't do this.. why does my 2011 tc do this. there are NO CEL's and car starts right back up, and drives smooth.

on another occasion, i shifted to neutral on the freeway to come to a stop and before i even came to the stop, the car was already off.. i may consider trading this car in if there aren't any fixes for this... there are no CEL's so i doubt the dealer will help PLUS the warranty is up...

 

This is happening to me every single time I fill up my gas tank and turn it on without leaving the A/C on. It does not maintain idle but its just for a while, then it doesn't do it anymore until I fill up my tank again. I only pour Shell premium on my car since new and I've changed gas stations and still. Any ideas?

 

none at all, this came out of nowhere for me... I'm going to clean my filter, but I doubt it's that.. car turned off on me 4 times coming home today from practice.. drives smooth and has full power, also, no cels yet, but it still dives on the rpms and shuts off. while in motion too! looks like I will have to go to the dealer and see if they can fix this problem. if I get no answers, I will consider trading my tc2 in, although I don't want to because I love this car, but I refuse to put around in a car that just shuts off whenever it feels like it..

 

The dealer should fix it if it stops. Due to the Eco mode, the car idles quite low. Sounds like it is having issues maintaining that low idle. Funny enough, mine would idle low and rumble to the point I was worried it would stall until I put a new intake in it. Hasn't done it since.

 

Isn't the powertrain warranty good for 5 years/60k miles?

 

unless that was offered on tc's 2012 and up, my 2011 only got 2 year/25K miles...

 

How can the powertrain warranty be shorter than bumper to bumper warranty.
Read your owner's manual or the pdf here.
Page 9 clearly says powertrain warranty is 60 months/60k miles.

 

Haha. 2 year/25K powertrain warranty? Don's Used Car lot where he sell's 1991 BMW's and 1979 Cadillacs offers a better warranty than that. Haha.

This is most definitely a fuel issue. It's not getting enough fuel when the throttle is closed. Definitely bring it to the dealer. Also, that wouldn't throw a code, so that would make sense. Could be your intake manifold too, but that would throw a code. Those dang runners that these new cars have that makers think are so great get stuck and whatnot, so I don't know but that would throw a code, so it's probably not that. Take it to the dealer, and your warranty is not 2 year/25K.

 

How long have you owned and how many miles? Have you done regular maintenance such as PCV, clean the MAF, air filter, throttle body? I had an idle issue on my 2010 around 50k and cleaned the MAF and boom, no more problems. I have replaced or cleaned everything else I listed.

 

Mine also idles real low when cruising to stop when shifting into neutral but never shuts off. I hope they find what there issue is, basic WAR is 3/36 and powertrain is 5/60. Believe me i work for Toyota.

 

Yes you have 5yr/60mls powertrain and 3yr/36mls bumper.... that 2yr/25mls is your toyota care/scion boost!!!!! that is just your free service. You DEFFINETLY still have warranty through time, depends what your miles are. I ALWAYS rec. to take it to a dealsership (especially if you still have warranty!)

 

You wouldn't happen to have an AEM cold air intake would you? Because this happened to me quite a few times

 

yes i do, but if it was the intake, it would throw a code, wouldn't it? and i must have had the aem intake on for at least 5000 miles with no issues. either way, i'm just going to it in when i get the chance.. monday my car turned off on my 4 times in a row and since then it hasn't turned off once.. annoyed..

 

Many of us have had same issues with the AEM. My story specifically was like yours, had the AEM on in the summer and did fine for like 2500 miles, but fall came and started having issues. Had it actually throw a code once, but I couldn't get it checked, had to pull the cable off the battery to reset the system and get home.
Even had AEM involved, sent me a new ETI unit cuz "one of their batches was 'bad'," per them. That solved the problem for about another 500 miles before problems started creeping back in. Took of the AEM after dealing with these stops/rough idles and went back to stock, no problems since! Seems to be injecting too much fuel at idle and it bogs the engine. Isn't throwing code because the system thinks the A/F settings are correct because of that ETI chip.
Its a shame too cuz I really liked the idea of the ETI, but doesn't function up to par.
Heard better/safer things from the Injen for our cars, so about to try that one next.

 

I was a test car for AEM. Great guys my at worked from November until August of the following year. They needed me to come in because people were having issues with their intakes (mine was fine for almost a year. So close to probably 15,000 miles). A month later my car started stalling. No check engine lights ever. It would start right up after wards. Once it did it on the freeway doing 70 mph.

I think it's your AEM. They had no idea what did it and couldn't fix the issue so I switched to a k & n short ram intake. There's no eti chip so there's nothing to mess with the system. Worked fine ever since. Put in your stock intake and pull the negative terminal of your battery off for 15 mins and see if it goes away

 

My car also would drop low in rpms at idle and shudder horribly before stalling

 

As I said here earlier, mine is doing it, weirder the fact that it only does it after refueling the gas tank everytime and on mine I have the injen cai so I guess I'll take it to the dealer and i'm almost sure they'll have something to say about my cai and it being the reason...

 

take off the aem cai and install your factory intake.... if the issues dont continue then hey... its your cai, if the issues are still happening then take it to the dealer (with the stock intake still installed).

 

I will revert back to stock, if problem is solved, I will sell my aem and take a look at the k&n.. I like the k&n more too, but already had the aem.

 

Having had both, I like the K & N just as much, same power, it has a little more aggresive tone to it, mileage is still great, and no worries about hydrolock whatsoever.

Plus same million mile filter warranty, and quicker install