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Old Apr 26, 2012 | 05:40 AM
  #21  
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What's so wrong with the adjustable coil over setup to have the ABILITY to lower 3-4" inches in range and keeping the height adjustment and preload setting separate? LMAO, that's why they are ADJUSTABLE, if one wants to slam they can, if one wants to set it at a more functional height to track it they can. There are springs available if you want to set it and forget it. We all know heating factory springs to slam is NOT the answer as the shocks will be blown riding on bump stops.
Old Apr 26, 2012 | 06:08 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by dropzone
What's so wrong with the adjustable coil over setup to have the ABILITY to lower 3-4" inches in range and keeping the height adjustment and preload setting separate? LMAO, that's why they are ADJUSTABLE, if one wants to slam they can, if one wants to set it at a more functional height to track it they can. There are springs available if you want to set it and forget it. We all know heating factory springs to slam is NOT the answer as the shocks will be blown riding on bump stops.

Originally Posted by 2tCornot2tC
Why? You want at least a 2.5” drop and completely destroyed the suspension geometry of the car that any adjustment you try to make will do absolutely nothing. A waste of money in this case.
Again, what is the use if you’ve just destroyed the suspension to get a 2.5” drop? Neither you nor 99.987% of the people on this forum would be able to choose the proper spring rates...
already answered...
Old Apr 26, 2012 | 06:28 AM
  #23  
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I see you mention the spring rate selection a good bit, even then the suspension companies run different rates. Since we're speaking of adjustable coil overs with linear springs, then what are the magical numbers for the spring rates? For the tC1 I've seen 8K front and rear, 6K/front and 8K/rear, 7K/front and 9K/rear, and other mixed rates.
Old Apr 26, 2012 | 07:22 AM
  #24  
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I don't know...I haven't gotten that far yet but this is what I will get.


Last edited by 2tCornot2tC; Apr 26, 2012 at 07:58 AM.
Old Apr 26, 2012 | 01:50 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 2tCornot2tC
That would be about correct if you were just replacing the stock springs is the stock locations but this thread is about coilovers. In the rear, the springs sit about in the middle of the lower control arm, therefore requiring double the spring rate. If coilovers would be installed, the reaction point would be at the end of the lower arm and not half way. So, the spring rates would be about the same for front and rear for the tC2.
So how do you claim to know so much, yet post what you just posted in the quote and not know that wheel rate (which includes spring angle, motion ratio and spring rate) AND corner weights are needed to determine spring rates? Nothing wrong with not knowing that stuff, unless you go around professing to be some sort of expert and talking down to everyone like you do.

Last edited by engifineer; Apr 26, 2012 at 02:10 PM.
Old Apr 26, 2012 | 01:57 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by dropzone
I see you mention the spring rate selection a good bit, even then the suspension companies run different rates. Since we're speaking of adjustable coil overs with linear springs, then what are the magical numbers for the spring rates? For the tC1 I've seen 8K front and rear, 6K/front and 8K/rear, 7K/front and 9K/rear, and other mixed rates.
To get it about as stiff as you will want on the street, you would not want more than about 400F/600R. That is getting pretty harsh for a daily driver, especially with pillow ball mounts in the front. The Tein SS-Ps' are 390ish LB front and 559ish LB rear (wow ... about the same ratio I mentioned that 2tc "corrected" .... ). I put "ish" after the rates because japanese and chinese springs are known for never being tight in tolerance, thus the rates if you actually measure them have a big variation.

Honestly, if you are not going to autox or track the car I would recommend something a tad softer (even a trd setup, which is autox'd a couple of years before running the ss-p's for that last 3).

And by talking about adjustable, I was referring to damper adjustment, not height adjustment, although about 1.5" lower than stock is about all you want. I and others have posted some good info on this on yoursctiontc.com in the past few years if you want to reference it.

Some companies make the rear rates lower ... even equal to the fronts in some cases. This is because stiff rear springs tend to make the car feel harsher, so to sooth the "slam it yo but dont hurt my butt!!" crowd they make lowering springs with cushy rear rates.
Old Apr 27, 2012 | 12:11 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by engifineer
...Honestly, if you are not going to autox or track the car I would recommend something a tad softer (even a trd setup, which is autox'd a couple of years before running the ss-p's for that last 3)....
Engifineer, I have spoken to you in other suspension threads you and Spicy_ posted and thanks to your advice I kept my TRD set up...

I do appreciate your advice and your know how.
Old Apr 27, 2012 | 12:20 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by dropzone
What's so wrong with the adjustable coil over setup to have the ABILITY to lower 3-4" inches in range and keeping the height adjustment and preload setting separate? LMAO, that's why they are ADJUSTABLE, if one wants to slam they can, if one wants to set it at a more functional height to track it they can. There are springs available if you want to set it and forget it. We all know heating factory springs to slam is NOT the answer as the shocks will be blown riding on bump stops.
I think you hit it right on the head. ... A lot of scion member will be interested in adjust-ability and being able to customize their set up to fit their needs...to each its own...

at one point I thought about the whole hellaflush thing...Bought wide rims, but as a daily driven car it wasnt practical, after speaking to engifineer I became aware that I did not need coils but for what I wanted, I will be better off with strut / springs ...

I do think though that if someone like engifineer was on the other side of the phone, let say working for BC coilovers and I told him hey bro I want my coilovers to be able to do x y z, and I want them to feel like this, and I do not want to feel the following: and he recommended a set up for my needs just like 2J-Racing did, I would had bought coilovers in a heart beat. I havent found that customer service yet...the best advice I got was from engifineer thus why I have my TRD set up...
Old Apr 27, 2012 | 06:03 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by engifineer
To get it about as stiff as you will want on the street, you would not want more than about 400F/600R. That is getting pretty harsh for a daily driver, especially with pillow ball mounts in the front. The Tein SS-Ps' are 390ish LB front and 559ish LB rear (wow ... about the same ratio I mentioned that 2tc "corrected" .... [IMG]file:///C:%5CUsers%5CPREFER%7E1%5CAppData%5CLocal%5CTemp%5Cmsohtmlclip1%5C01%5Cclip_image001.gif[/IMG]).
It seems like you’ve done some playing with the 1st generation tC…I’ve done none! It also seems like you like TEIN or think that they know something about suspensions. If you take a look at my post #24, you will see copy (and a link to) of TEIN Super Street coilovers for the 2nd generation tC. They use 340-lbs/in and 340-lbs/in spring rates for the front and the rear…hmmm…time to do some checking engifineer.
Old Apr 27, 2012 | 02:19 PM
  #30  
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No, actaully TEIN is considered very low end in the world of good suspension. They just happen to have the best rate setup for a tC1 and still halfway decent build quality and a decent price tag. For out of the box on a tC1 they are one of the better choices .. only because no really great setups exist short of building yourself.

You can regurgitate all you want off the internet, aftermarket sites, etc. Facts are facts. go read up on "autocrossing to win" or any other reputable place regarding suspension setup and then rethink your statements. Then go out and look at what people actually run in competition on their car.

Again, like I have already posted, many companies run softer rear rates to please the "tooner" crowd they are trying to sell to. That makes the car feel cushy and keeps it more in the understeering mode, which is safer for that crowd. If the tC2 has roughly the same setup as the tC1 other than being porkier, then equal rates front and rear will not handle nearly as well as if you set the car up properly. It will probably do ok for a street car since the low wheel rate you end up with in the back with that motion ratio and spring combo is someone offset by the front/rear weight distribution .. but overall you need more spring in back if the MR is similar to the first gen.

See, I dont take my info from what Tein, or any other company sells to the crowd they are trying to make money from, I choose it from what actually works. Again, you know SO much according to you, but the info you post shows blind following of small tidbits you have read and negates half of the information. I dont really care what you do to your own car or if you like to make yourself feel knowledgeable, but when you are talking down to everyone and showing them "facts" that are missing loads of information, then you are dragging others that dont know any better down the wrong path.
Old Apr 27, 2012 | 04:21 PM
  #31  
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In all of that, all you've said was the TEIN is the best one out there...the best one available...yet junk!? OK!
Old Apr 27, 2012 | 04:32 PM
  #32  
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There is a HUGE difference in what is decent for most practical purposes, and what is considered "good" in serious suspension setups. Even koni has flaws that many serious people hate. In serious setups, coiloves can range from $2000 to $6000+ So that is where that came from.

And 99% of the tein stuff for the tc is .... Junk for handling purposes. Their ss-ps actually have some good handling in the design rather than being 100% ricer marketed like the lowering springs they sell.
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