50 shot or nitrous?
I went to a performance shop in my area, and the owner of the shop told me the best thing I can do to add power is put nitrous on the box. He recomened the Zex system because of all the safe guards it has. He said the wet system with a 50 shot would be safe to run on the 1.5. I was just wondering if this is true? I would love to squeeze, but not if it isnt safe on the stock internals. Also, he said that a 50 shot will only give like 35 horses without a bottle warmer? Any information will help.-Jake
Running NOS is cool. A friend of mine with a box has a 35 shot on his car, he claims works great. A 50 shot isn't too much more, as long as it's a wet shot. ( nos/fuel ). And do all the safe precautions for it. ex. Colder spark plugs helps alot, making sure you have both nos/fuel right for the jets, not spraying past certain mph's..etc.
Originally Posted by NeoXa
Running NOS is cool. A friend of mine with a box has a 35 shot on his car, he claims works great. A 50 shot isn't too much more, as long as it's a wet shot. ( nos/fuel ). And do all the safe precautions for it. ex. Colder spark plugs helps alot, making sure you have both nos/fuel right for the jets, not spraying past certain mph's..etc.
iridiums don't like nitrous, from experience
platinum dosen't either
go with standard copper plugs 1 step colder for 30, 2 steps for 50. They will need to be checked cause the temps will melt them down sooner, and gap em a little smaller, if it calls for 44 drop to 35, if stock (8mm) gap called for go with the smallest gap in the list( 27 to 31, 7mm to 8mm) that sort.
platinum dosen't either
go with standard copper plugs 1 step colder for 30, 2 steps for 50. They will need to be checked cause the temps will melt them down sooner, and gap em a little smaller, if it calls for 44 drop to 35, if stock (8mm) gap called for go with the smallest gap in the list( 27 to 31, 7mm to 8mm) that sort.
Originally Posted by hotbox05
dude these motors wont live with anything more than a 35 if you plan on shooting often.
Originally Posted by frogbox
iridiums don't like nitrous, from experience
platinum dosen't either
go with standard copper plugs 1 step colder for 30, 2 steps for 50. They will need to be checked cause the temps will melt them down sooner, and gap em a little smaller, if it calls for 44 drop to 35, if stock (8mm) gap called for go with the smallest gap in the list( 27 to 31, 7mm to 8mm) that sort.
platinum dosen't either
go with standard copper plugs 1 step colder for 30, 2 steps for 50. They will need to be checked cause the temps will melt them down sooner, and gap em a little smaller, if it calls for 44 drop to 35, if stock (8mm) gap called for go with the smallest gap in the list( 27 to 31, 7mm to 8mm) that sort.
Iridiums, from my experience, run on the hot side. If you have ever seen them they have smaller electrodes. When I used them they caused pinging, even with colder plug.
Same with platinum, electrodes actually burn down fast. So running iridiums or plats, again in my experience, isn't worth the extra money spent.
Have to change out standard plugs more often but don't cause the ping
If you go to Barnes & Nobles, Boarders books, they have some real good books on the subject in the automobile repair section. If you want or just like to read to learn more try there. Your local library might even have them.
Same with platinum, electrodes actually burn down fast. So running iridiums or plats, again in my experience, isn't worth the extra money spent.
Have to change out standard plugs more often but don't cause the ping
If you go to Barnes & Nobles, Boarders books, they have some real good books on the subject in the automobile repair section. If you want or just like to read to learn more try there. Your local library might even have them.
Originally Posted by frogbox
Iridiums, from my experience, run on the hot side. If you have ever seen them they have smaller electrodes. When I used them they caused pinging, even with colder plug.
Same with platinum, electrodes actually burn down fast. So running iridiums or plats, again in my experience, isn't worth the extra money spent.
Have to change out standard plugs more often but don't cause the ping
If you go to Barnes & Nobles, Boarders books, they have some real good books on the subject in the automobile repair section. If you want or just like to read to learn more try there. Your local library might even have them.
Same with platinum, electrodes actually burn down fast. So running iridiums or plats, again in my experience, isn't worth the extra money spent.
Have to change out standard plugs more often but don't cause the ping
If you go to Barnes & Nobles, Boarders books, they have some real good books on the subject in the automobile repair section. If you want or just like to read to learn more try there. Your local library might even have them.
Yeah i can't read so no books for me
Iridium and Platinum plug won't work with N20. The N20 will burn the tips of the plugs of probably on the first run. If you're going to spray the box you neen colder copper plugs. NGK's are the best thing to use and I would bet the BKR7's. They're 2 steps colder than stock and they'll last longer.
Personally I don't think the engine will hold up to the spray. If it were me I would be scared to put the 35 on it. A 50 will more than likely toast the engine. Zex rates their shot in HP not really in a shot and it's flywheel HP. On 4 cly applications they have a 55, 65, 75 hp rating. NX rate wheel HP and their jets flow more than the ZEX jets. So that shot rating isn't real clear with Zex. The wet kit is "safer" than a dry but there really isn't any safer way to spray a car.
BTW NOS is a compay and Nitrous Oxide or N20 is what in in the bottle and get sprayed.
Personally I don't think the engine will hold up to the spray. If it were me I would be scared to put the 35 on it. A 50 will more than likely toast the engine. Zex rates their shot in HP not really in a shot and it's flywheel HP. On 4 cly applications they have a 55, 65, 75 hp rating. NX rate wheel HP and their jets flow more than the ZEX jets. So that shot rating isn't real clear with Zex. The wet kit is "safer" than a dry but there really isn't any safer way to spray a car.
BTW NOS is a compay and Nitrous Oxide or N20 is what in in the bottle and get sprayed.
Originally Posted by frogbox
Don't read?
Don't believe everything on the web, they let anyone in here

Don't believe everything on the web, they let anyone in here
Proshop, I'm not an expert with Zex, NOS, NX or any N20 for that matter. But I'm sure there are a lot of people squeezing w/ their boxes! But we do not know the long term effect it has on the motor. Put it this way, a friend of mine was squeezing a 100 shot in a 92 sentra, bone stock motor. It ran constant high 13's. He used that setup for two sessions @ Sacramento Raceway before finally blowing the motor. Like I said I'm not a expert, but I do know that you can run a 50 shot on a xB, the problem is how long can you run a 50 shot b4 you blow your motor. Again just my $.02!
Originally Posted by KenzokuXB
Proshop, I'm not an expert with Zex, NOS, NX or any N20 for that matter. But I'm sure there are a lot of people squeezing w/ their boxes! But we do not know the long term effect it has on the motor. Put it this way, a friend of mine was squeezing a 100 shot in a 92 sentra, bone stock motor. It ran constant high 13's. He used that setup for two sessions @ Sacramento Raceway before finally blowing the motor. Like I said I'm not a expert, but I do know that you can run a 50 shot on a xB, the problem is how long can you run a 50 shot b4 you blow your motor. Again just my $.02!
Ok, lol I have done some research. Correct me if I am wrong. Nitrous infact actuall rasies the pressure and heat in the combustion chamber. If I am not mistaken doesn't forced induction do the same thing? So what is so detremental when running nitrous? Is it the fact that the 35 or 50 shot hits instantly? It seems to me that running nitrous is actually better, being that you only shoot when racing. Also with nitrous they state that cylinder temps arent that much hotter because the extra fuel helps keep the temps down. This is just what I have read. I may be wrong but that is what I get out of it?
OK bear with me 1 second.
Do you know how to weld using oxy/acetelene?
compare it to that. you are adding oxy( nitrous) and fuel into the mix, making it burn hotter.It burns at such a higher temp coming out of the exhaust that most, if not all header manufacturers will void any warranty ( DC Sports states this in there warrantee). Again, I have seen exhaust systems melt. Not completely, but the welds go first.
Adding nitrous raises the cylinder temp fast, unlike s/c and t/c which keep it at a constant.
When you add nitrous and fuel with what is already there, under compression it gets hot, same as s/c and t/c.
Now with our motors, the combustion chambers are bored, if I remember 12 degrees off center, that seems to be the limiting factor to adding more power to them.
Hope I answered more questions than I raised.
Do you know how to weld using oxy/acetelene?
compare it to that. you are adding oxy( nitrous) and fuel into the mix, making it burn hotter.It burns at such a higher temp coming out of the exhaust that most, if not all header manufacturers will void any warranty ( DC Sports states this in there warrantee). Again, I have seen exhaust systems melt. Not completely, but the welds go first.
Adding nitrous raises the cylinder temp fast, unlike s/c and t/c which keep it at a constant.
When you add nitrous and fuel with what is already there, under compression it gets hot, same as s/c and t/c.
Now with our motors, the combustion chambers are bored, if I remember 12 degrees off center, that seems to be the limiting factor to adding more power to them.
Hope I answered more questions than I raised.
Yeah, with a torch oxy/ acetylene when you use more oxygen it gets exponentially hotter, but that is why they don't use pure oxygen. That is why the torch mixes the two together, much like a wet system. That is how the fuel cools down the combusion chamber. All these stories I hear about people buring pistions and cracking rings are running a rediculous shot. I can gather that if I were to use the nitrous non-stop all day it would do damage, but I dont plan on it. I also dont see that Zex makes a 35 shot set up, maybe it is special order, but I cannot find it on their web site. Kinda funny that the welds go first, must be bad craftsmanship. I good weld will actually be stronger than the base metal being used. Just the experiance I have had. When we see structural steel failure at work, it is usually not the weld that breaks. Just my thoughts.






