Air "Compressor" prob. broke!! Is Pulley the culp
#41
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They said it was not me It's just not as heavy oh and it's not an under pulley.
If it were a different diameter I would have not been able to use the same belts or would have to position the Compressor at a different point most likely.
If it were a different diameter I would have not been able to use the same belts or would have to position the Compressor at a different point most likely.
#43
No, I don't work for a dealership and never have.
The key point is the warranty is ONLY their promise they built it right, and will fix anything they did wrong when they built it.
From what I understand from what you posted, you condenser suffered damage somehow while you were driving it. I also understand that after that you ran the compressor for an extended period trying to get it to work. During that time, the compressor could easily have been damaged.
If I got any of that wrong, correct me.
If the compressor was damaged through no act of theirs, they are not responsible for the damage, and therefore it is not warranty.
If they claim that an aftermarket part caused the failure, it is their responsibility to PROVE that per federal law (see the Moss-Magnuson act).
Note, though, that I'm not saying it is your pulley, but possibly damage from being run dry. Compressors are not designed to be run without the refrigerant and lubrication present.
Honestly it sounds like they are doing their best to get out of warranty repair. Thing is, even though most of their objections seem far fetched, they may, overall, be right that it should not be a warranty repair.
Bottom line is if the failure was not Toyota's fault, it's not warranty. All else is just noise.
Sorry!
Tom
The key point is the warranty is ONLY their promise they built it right, and will fix anything they did wrong when they built it.
From what I understand from what you posted, you condenser suffered damage somehow while you were driving it. I also understand that after that you ran the compressor for an extended period trying to get it to work. During that time, the compressor could easily have been damaged.
If I got any of that wrong, correct me.
If the compressor was damaged through no act of theirs, they are not responsible for the damage, and therefore it is not warranty.
If they claim that an aftermarket part caused the failure, it is their responsibility to PROVE that per federal law (see the Moss-Magnuson act).
Note, though, that I'm not saying it is your pulley, but possibly damage from being run dry. Compressors are not designed to be run without the refrigerant and lubrication present.
Honestly it sounds like they are doing their best to get out of warranty repair. Thing is, even though most of their objections seem far fetched, they may, overall, be right that it should not be a warranty repair.
Bottom line is if the failure was not Toyota's fault, it's not warranty. All else is just noise.
Sorry!
Tom
#44
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Yes very well put. I wish I could say Nay!! Wow your up late
I think they would have to prove they did not brake the Compressor as well since they did a whole bunch of checks as well and had my car 2 times now for a total of like 8hrs for the air conditioning problem.
I think I have become obsessed with getting my AC back in working order and it seems that is not what is meant to happen at this moment. I can get red in the face with hate and it would do nothing to change that fact.
This is prob. gonna take time to work out even if I will end up needing to pay for it myself. The Compressor is a $750 part (shoot me now). My friend might be able to get one for allot cheaper but I am not gonna hold my breath.\
Sigh............
I think they would have to prove they did not brake the Compressor as well since they did a whole bunch of checks as well and had my car 2 times now for a total of like 8hrs for the air conditioning problem.
I think I have become obsessed with getting my AC back in working order and it seems that is not what is meant to happen at this moment. I can get red in the face with hate and it would do nothing to change that fact.
This is prob. gonna take time to work out even if I will end up needing to pay for it myself. The Compressor is a $750 part (shoot me now). My friend might be able to get one for allot cheaper but I am not gonna hold my breath.\
Sigh............
#47
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NO the Pulley was not the problem!
Thank you Kirby, thank you Tommy from Quality Toys! Thank you Rich from Quality Toyota in Corona.
I put in a new condenser and they warrantied the busted compressor + array That's over $1800 in repairs. So problem solved and NO the Pulley was not the problem.
#49
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Well heh, they did not have the stress and misery of the situation to deal with nore the over 600 miles in traveling to different dealers etc. etc. I had to drive to and fro Lancaster Sat. over 150 miles not fun.
But it does all go away when the car was ICE COLD on the way home to LA from Corona today
Yes I sure did luck out!
But it does all go away when the car was ICE COLD on the way home to LA from Corona today
Yes I sure did luck out!
#50
Originally Posted by INFINI
Yeah but using 87 made my car rattle so loud it was embarrassing to drive. I was going to the cheapest gas station I could find Arco and such.
The mechanics said that in the long run it can do damage to your engine and is not worth the few bucks saved at the pump.
The mechanics said that in the long run it can do damage to your engine and is not worth the few bucks saved at the pump.
Avoid cheap gas then. I stick to Cheveron 87 octane, never have any problems. Just be sure to run good fuel cleaner from time to time.
I've learned the hard way to NOT use Earl's Gas or whatever mystery gas is cheaper. I ended up taking an old car from 87 to 93 octane on cheap gas to keep it from knocking. Followed some advice and ran Greased Lightening fuel treatment with Cheveron 87. Ran like crap for a quarter tank, then ran smooth after that.
There is no gain from higher octane fuel if your vehicle is not designed to run on it. The ONLY benefit is masking a problem like knocking. You won't get any extra horsepower, and you are actually causing a faster carbon buildup inside your engine.
#51
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KK so your saying in a nut shell
1. Use 87 but the good gas like shell, Mobile or any on the list from the site of TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline Retailers.
2. don't use higher octane cause the xA is made to use 87?
3. I should use that fuel cleaner once in a blue moon to make sure everything's cool.
1. Use 87 but the good gas like shell, Mobile or any on the list from the site of TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline Retailers.
2. don't use higher octane cause the xA is made to use 87?
3. I should use that fuel cleaner once in a blue moon to make sure everything's cool.
#52
Yup, Infini, those three are pretty much what should be done.
The 'cleaner' I run through maybe once a year is the Chevron Techron Concentrate. It's probably the most effective of any of the retail additives to keep an engine already in decent shape in good shape.
If the engine already has a deposit problem from running cheap fuel or whatever, the Chevron Pro-Gard Concentrates are a range of products that can be matched to the particular problems the engine has. If it is something that can be handled by an additive, these are some of the best.
(No, I don't work for Chevron and never have, but they do have excellent products. I usually have a plastic bottle of Techron additive in the back of the car when I travel, so I can add some to questionable fuel that I may have to use. I've done that for years and have always had clean engines.)
Worth thinking about, at least.
Tom
The 'cleaner' I run through maybe once a year is the Chevron Techron Concentrate. It's probably the most effective of any of the retail additives to keep an engine already in decent shape in good shape.
If the engine already has a deposit problem from running cheap fuel or whatever, the Chevron Pro-Gard Concentrates are a range of products that can be matched to the particular problems the engine has. If it is something that can be handled by an additive, these are some of the best.
(No, I don't work for Chevron and never have, but they do have excellent products. I usually have a plastic bottle of Techron additive in the back of the car when I travel, so I can add some to questionable fuel that I may have to use. I've done that for years and have always had clean engines.)
Worth thinking about, at least.
Tom
#54
Originally Posted by dgenem
... There is no gain from higher octane fuel if your vehicle is not designed to run on it.... and you are actually causing a faster carbon buildup inside your engine.
#55
Originally Posted by vintage42
Originally Posted by dgenem
... There is no gain from higher octane fuel if your vehicle is not designed to run on it.... and you are actually causing a faster carbon buildup inside your engine.
If you car is engineered to run with an octane rating of 87, using 91 will result in no real benefit. In some instances, you may even accumulate un-burnt fuel into your emission system, which can end up collected into your catalytic converter — eventually stressing the system.
per this link : http://www.bargaineering.com/article...-gas-myth.html
or this one : http://www.stopbuyingcrap.com/2006/1...ng-3-gasoline/
#58
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Yeah I got the car with 4 miles on it
So it does not say anything about being designed for 87? I know the dealership mechanics don't know cause they told me to use better gas companies, they did not say anything about what kind but that I "could use 87" just not the cheap stuff.
So it does not say anything about being designed for 87? I know the dealership mechanics don't know cause they told me to use better gas companies, they did not say anything about what kind but that I "could use 87" just not the cheap stuff.
#59
Here ya go infini , The xB Owners Manual, Section 2, Page 114 says:
OCTANE RATING
Select Octane Rating 87... or higher.
Use of unleaded gasoline with an octane rating or research octane number lower than (87 octane) stated above will cause persistent heavy knocking. If it is severe, this will lead to engine damage.
OCTANE RATING
Select Octane Rating 87... or higher.
Use of unleaded gasoline with an octane rating or research octane number lower than (87 octane) stated above will cause persistent heavy knocking. If it is severe, this will lead to engine damage.