woooo keep quoting!

 

WOOO AND AGAIN!!11

 

LOL

 

Best. Post. Ever.

 

Spark retard would only happen if the knock sensor sensed knock, but there is only so far that the ECU can retard, there are parameters that the ecu cannot exceed. That was my whole point in the first place is to tune it properly... that way your ecu won't work against you when using N2O

 

i guess ill be the one to answer his question more directly...i ran the xb with a 75 hp wet shot. it was running fine at the track. but then one day i was squeezing with a few poeple in the car...and when i got to the parking lot...my car was not idling well. i changed my plugs thinking that they may have been burned out. but that is not it. i think there is somethin wrong with the timing. and the car is still sitting at home in the garage while im away in college.

SO...dont run a 75 shot without proper tuning. if you were to do it...get a safc. i forget who wrote it...but he is right...the ecu can only correct what the nitrous is doing so much. so stay with a 50 to be safe.

p.s. if anyone knows whats wrong with my car...let me know

 

i have nothing to say to this post except i wanted to keep the quoting going. Wow, im a loser.

 

Just out of curiocity have you done a compression test yet? or leakdown? and i would hope to god that anyone in their correct mind woul;d order a kit and start off small and work their way up before you went all ___ hat with it. Someone had mentioed the correct "so-called" formula for introducing Nitrous to a vehicle given the rated HP divided by half should be appropriate. this is also given i real world enviroments based upon a new car and perfect condition of the engine. as most of us know its not to unheard for a buddy with 176,000 miles on his 94 Civic to be trying out his 125 shot "NOS KIT". i would rather instill in someones mind to go by not the rated hp. but by actuall wheel hp as a safety net for the begginer especially. if your not sure what your vehicles capable of, you should be either searching for a certified shop or searching for qualified help from the original manufacture of the kit. Typically the Zex kit despite the ugly purple bottle is near goof proof. utilizing it as a dry kit anything under 65-maybe 75 shot can be given dry. more complicated tuning and setups are required for wet systems and hey, unless you plan on building the bottom end in your vehicle soon. you should be forewarned that your car has a limit regardless of your wallet. a 50/55 shot is more than enough for most FF stock cars. with bolt ons especially with Daily Driving reliability factors.

BTW most ECU's will correct for about 10% +/- factory original timing/fuel/air curves. but their are many piggyback computers to help with that...

 

No i havent done a compression or leakdown test yet...i will be doing that in 2 weeks when i get home from school. and i did have a kit NOS wet kit and i started off with 50 and moved to 65, 70, then 75.

 

military uses lots of acronyms so does law enforcement and so does the medical field. there is nothing wrong with someone using acronyms. but people who dont know that nos is a brand or what have u and this taht nos is the real gas is dumb. i dont think there should be any reason to ban usin nos as an acceptable name for nitrous. it is almost synonymous.

 

I understand what you're saying, it's just that for me the word "NOS" is extremely annoying. It's just one of those things...it's a peeve of mine.

 

How many people do you hear talk about "in line skates" as "in line skates"........they all call em Rollerblades. It's a common thing........a brand that popularizes a product often becomes synonymous with the product. So I don't think it's appropriate to flame someone for using the term "nos" to refer to nitrous. I personally don't like the term.....but I won't be on someone's ___ for using it interchangeably with nitrous.

KiL

 

Please don't ever tell anyone to get an AFC... Please... Might as well go ____ away $300 dollars on a set of ground wires and a fuel line magnet. They do just about as much good, and much less bad.

Sarcasm, sorry. AFC's aren't really all that great, they modify what the ECU THINKS is the true MAF signal, by doing this it tricks the ECU into adding more/less fuel. BUT!!! Changing MAF signals can affect timing, negatively!!!

 

Ideally a piggy back is not the best solution , however, in some instances or for minimal tuning a piggyback, in theis case an AFC s the only solution for tuning. tricking the ECU can be done several ways.... i would prefer someone to use an AFC, then a reostat and makeshift wiring. anyway you look at it thats tuning. and if your not sure what the equipment fully does or how to set it up, you should be asking for help tuning a vehicle.

A full engine management system would in the end be less costly the a few piggybacks. maybe you should look at a Haltech system for your needs.

 

Never do more then 50% of the stock engine power with out the engine being built. This means a 35 shot or 50 shot. Put in a throttle switch and O2 Cut off. This way only kicks in when turned on and at full throttle and when the o2 sensors sense that the A/F is more the 14.5 either way (lean or rich) it will shut it off. Keep in mind the xB and xA have returnless fuel lines. This makes it a lil differnt then some other cars. Might also want to ungrade the fuel rail to handle the extra fuel. Wet is the the only way besides a direct port for the scions. A dry kit wouldnt work very effectively.
$.02