so I just recently purchased 05' Scion XB Intake from procarparts.com with the K&N Filter.

I did these in order

-Took out the old air delivery system
-Took out the battery
-Took off the MAF sensor
-Placed and installed the MAF sensor on the new intake
-Placed the filter
-Reconnected everything including the battery, which should have reste the ECU rite?

The car started but the engine was violently shaking due to lack of air, definately as if the MAF sensor was diconnected.

So i made sure the MAF sensor was properly inserted and connected, check and checked and checked again to make sure MAF sensor was working fine.

-I even replaced the stock air tube and everything and it works fine

Just the new intake doesn't seem to get along with teh MAF sensor

I've tried to install this intake many times, many different ways, but no result, but one time it seemeed to sorta learn but it was still a lil' hesistant and as soon as the outside temp. changed it kept starving for air and kept stalling out.

So its def. MAF sensor related, I just don't know how to fix it, there are no leaks on or around where the MAF sensor is on the new intake tube.

So any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

 

is the seal on your sensor broken? because my seal broke on the sensor and i had to get a new sensor.... everythings fine now though. try to clean the sensor with a non residue cleaner (i used non residue brake cleaner) and then let it dry and put it back in. check your rubber seal first

 

the thin seal..which looks like a large o-ring? if so yea..its on tight and there's no air leaking from the MAF sensor hole on the intake piping..

 

You said you've tried to install it many times. So that means you've put your stock intake back on and everything works fine? So your MAF being contaminated shouldn't be the problem.

No weird bends, obstructions, or cracks in the tube? And you took the K&N filter out of the plastic bag it came in?

 

you disconnected your battery when you took it out so it will run bad for about 15 or so minutes...

 

nothing bad with the tubing, and yes the filter is clean, new and plastic removed, i even removed the filter just tried running it with an open tube...still the same problem...

hmm, ok so it takes that long for it remap and reconfigure itself to the new dynamics of the intake? like i mentioned on one of the attempts i played around with the throttle and it seemed to be slowly learning, but later on that night it failed to keep the consistency. so i should just let it run for like 15 minutes or so....i

i'll give that a shot...thanks for the help..

 

I would be surprised if that fixes the problem. I have not seen anything in the diagnostic and maintenance manuals about the engine controls "remapping and reconfiguring" for intake changes. What is the basis for that belief?

 

the ecu has to adjust for the increased air flow, but it doesn't take 15min it should only take a couple. It sounds like you have a problem with your intake.

 

Isn't the ECU getting its data from an airflow sensor that reads airflow but does not care what is affecting the airflow -- whether it be more or less throttle, a clean or dirty air filter, or a stock or cold air intake?
And doesn't the ECU continuously and instantly adjust the other parameters like fuel and timing for the airflow?
Where in the manuals is there anything about the engine taking time to "learn" or "unlearn" or even to "forget" what it had apparently once learned, as it tries to run?
It would be interesting to see if there was a trouble code associated with this engine's poor running.

 

I don't think the problem lies with the intake, as its an exact replica of any other name brand intake tube, the mandrel bends, the MAF sensor port, the PCV port are all indentical to any other intake and the filter is is a K&N, the problem doesn't lay there as well, as i ran it with and w/o the filter, so after the last few posts, what else could be the problem?

p.s. How do you reset the ECU anyway? what fuse is it in the main fuse box to reset it? even though i took my battery out, i just wanna do a sure reset ...

 

Look for the 15 amp EFI fuse under the hood next to the battery.

 

if it runs fine with the stock airbox, but not with the CAI I don't see how it's the MAF?

 

i say its the MAF since it feels like the MAF is disconnected, you know how the car runs like crap if you have the MAF disconnected, thats exactly how it feels but i know the MAF is connected, its like starving for air....and there are NO CEL's...

 

weird!

 

A DTC is a Diagnotic Trouble Code that can only be displayed on a scanner (or a ScanGuage) that is plugged into the OBDII (diagnostic) port under the dashboard panel.
The CEL is the Check Engine Light on the dashboard display. According to the Manual, it means:
"There is a problem somewhere in the engine, emission control system, automatic transmission, electrical system or warning light system itself."
If the engine should not run well, does the CEL light always come on?
Could the computer contain a DTC without the CEL light being on?

 

I'm not entirely sure if it will throw CEL if something's wrong, i've owned many obd0 Honda's and if theres ANYTHING wrong it'll throw a CEL, and then you diagnose it using codes or using on OBD1/2 Scan tool, in older cars or even the obd-2's there's no way anything's wrong under the hood without throwing on the CEL, and throwing a code...

so, unless this is something different, there shouldn't be a problem. The CEL will come on instantly if there's anything wrong under the hood, which is then diagnosed by a scan tool..

 

Yes, the computer can have pending DTC without illuminating the CEL. The process for illuminating the CEL varies depending on the DTC. Usually the computer will want to see the trigger conditions on multiple KO/KO drive cycles, with a few exceptions. My CAI did something similar to me. On decel to a stop, the engine would occasionally stall. I popped the head, discovered that the the boot had loosened of the intake, essentially causing unmetered air to enter the engine. So go ahead and make sure that all your connections AFTER the MAF are tight, including the PCV hose, assuming it's located after the MAF. Then, if you don't have an OBDII scanner, head over to Checkers Auto Zone Pep Boys NAPA, etc. They will loan you a scanner to use. See if there are any pending trouble codes.

 

And incidentally, my CEL didn't illuminate at any point during this.

 

What they are referring to is Fuel Trim. There are two sets of data the ECU uses for Fuel Trim. Short term, and long term. Depending on the conditions you stated above, the computer makes short term adjustments. Over time, if it sees consistancy with these adjustments, it will alter the long term values. If the values for short term or long term go to extremes, it may illuminate a CEL. This does not happen immediately! Especially with short term trim.

 

hmm ok..i'll look into that this weekend, thats the next time i'll get a chance to get on it....i guess i'll make sure there are no leaks of any sort anywhere...