Just stick with the Toyota filters to be safe.

 

I have heard good about the Toyo filters, but i dont think that they have that dyaphram that the PureOne has for cold start ups.

 

I like the K&N filters the best. Did you know they even went through the trouble of dying the filter to match the air filters?

 

I just stop by the dealer and buy 2 OEM filters at a time. I think I spend less than $15 for the 2. Mobil 1 and factory filters for me.

 

TRDsparks.com sells a case of 10 for $35.50. I'll probably just do that and suffer with the 6 month / 5,000 mile changes with Mobil 1 or Pennzoil Platinum instead of the 1 year Amsoil.

 

I just put in Mobil 1 extreme performance (the one thats like 15,000 miles) 5w-30 and a K&N filter =)

 

I wouldn't leave it in there for 15K tho. Just use regular Mobil 1 and a Toyota filter every 5K and be done.

 

yeah, I would definitely check it at 5k, and then 10k and just see how it looks. I changed mine out today at about 6k and the oil didnt seem bad at all (whatever the dealer puts in). So I'm going to stick to mobil 1.

 

Dino oil is good for around 7,500 miles.

The Mobil 1 will last for 15K miles. I have personally ran my old car at 15K mile change intervals. Even beyond 125K miles the car never burned or leaked oil. The oil level was only slightly below the full line. I also ran K&N Ford V-8 oil filter and the engine was a 1.3L.

 

Not in any of my cars EVER! Maybe Mobil 1 if I forget to change right away. Even my work van only goes 5K miles every 2-3 weeks on Castrol GTX.

Just because you dislike your vehiles, don't post nonsense like that? Paleeese
The newbies might think it's ok to follow it.

 

Why do you say it is not good for 7,500 miles? Personally I like to change the dino at 5K and the Mobil 1 at 10K. I drive my Scion about 5-6K miles / month and change the oil at 10K miles.

 

You can do whatever the F' you want to your own vehicles! Just don't tell it to others like it's the right thing to do because it's not.
The thing you just said about dino being changed at 5K if done during 1 month is fine but it's a back track.

 

Umm, I thought this was about syns....

Anyway, I wont continue the ____ing macth here.

The best oil for your box - any SYNTHETIC 0w30 or 0w20. Best start up protection while keeping filme strength where it should be @ operating temps.

 

Me too! It is about synthetics. Why he started spewing about dino is beyond me.

Not sure about those thin a$$ed weights tho unless you lived in Alaska.

5W30 is the best year round weight till you get over 100K then switch over to 10W30.

 

Huh? Thin weights?

A 0w-30 is the same weight at 212F as a 5w30 or a 10w30.

 

Whatever??? 0 weight oils are about as thick as WD-40. Like water, no viscosity. I barely trust 5 weights. Leave it alone already

 

The 0W is measured at a specific temperature. So the viscosity of a 0W may not be a different from a 5W at other temperatures. The problem with using a multi weight that covers a large viscosity range (say 5w-50) is that it contains more of the components to handle the viscosity change rather than lubricating oil. Those components also break down over the life of the oil so it becomes thinner.

I don't know about using a 0W, I'd assume there's a reason that Toyota and other manufacturers spec 5W-20 rather than 0W-20.

 

You obviously dont understand motor oil at all.

 

I used to run the 0-20w with no bad effects. I don't think it really helps with mileage as some people state. I actually have been running 20-50w for the last couple of years.

 

Does anyone know how much Redline oil costs per quart ?