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Perrin Pulley Installation Guide

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Old Oct 10, 2006 | 07:55 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Travst
... It's hard to tell if it provides any performance gain. I've already added an intake, header and exhaust, so the minor performance gain due to the pulley may not be able to be determined using the seat of my pants....
So you had previously installed the intake, header and exhaust, and then driven like that for awhile? And then you added the pulley and could tell no difference between having it and not having it?
Old Oct 10, 2006 | 11:48 PM
  #42  
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So the "standard pin" that should be used in the keyhole/keyway is the stock pin? It's hard to see on the pics here where the hole & pin is...?

I had pointed out the small hole as well & he didn't think it was the right fit...?
Old Oct 16, 2006 | 11:07 PM
  #43  
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I installed the perrin pulley over the weekend and I thought I would share a few things that made it easier to get in.

The power steering pulley has an adjustment as well on the lower right side that will lighten the tension on that belt. Having both belts loose makes it extremely easy to mount the new pulley correctly. I also found it easier to put the key pin from the front and using something small to tap it in beneath the main bolt. If you have a friend pull the power steering/alternator while you tighten up the bolts it makes it very easy to get the belts where they were before you broke everything loose.

Overall I would say the pulley is significantly lighter than the stock almost night and day holding them in my hands. I could immediately feel the difference in my rev up and it really helps me get my box around people on highway for sure and climbing up hills doesnt seem like I am in a go-cart. The only other power mod I am running is the injen short ram intake.
Old Nov 3, 2006 | 07:44 PM
  #44  
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Default Here I GO...

Here I GO...

Got the Perrin Pulley, new GATES Drive & Power steering belts....& a bottle of Advil for the headache I'm sure will come along with the aching muscles from breaking the bolts loose.

Printed out this thread & the Drive belt replacement directions from the ScionLife manual.

Got my Pops & my ever-so-handy GF to help.

Wish us luck!
Old Nov 3, 2006 | 08:02 PM
  #45  
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any troubles post up alright! I'll be lurking a few times today.
Old Nov 3, 2006 | 08:49 PM
  #46  
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savage -- its pretty painless just using a breaker bar but having a friend to help pull the power steering / alternator to get the belts back where they should be is very helpful. It was also useful having someone to push off of when I was unbolting the pulley (I was otherwise sliding across the garage floor ) GL on the install
Old Nov 3, 2006 | 08:54 PM
  #47  
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keeping track of this to find it easily for later use.
Old Nov 4, 2006 | 12:42 AM
  #48  
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Here's where we're stuck....

Everything is off & rdy to go back on but we can't break the alternator loose to help it to move...? There is little room to move the bolt on the bottom of the mounting bracket.
Old Nov 4, 2006 | 12:52 AM
  #49  
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I'd say dont worry about the bottom... I somehow only loosened the top and got it done. Basically took one look at the bottom and said forget it! no way! and then grunted through doing it without.
Old Nov 4, 2006 | 01:28 AM
  #50  
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So what order did you put the Drive belt on? From top to bottom or reverse? When we pry on the alternator the whole engine moves instead of just the alternator.

The Power steering went on no problem but the drive belt is a BEAR!?
Old Nov 4, 2006 | 03:05 AM
  #51  
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There is a sliding bracket that alternator is attached to that should let you loosen it enough to slide it back making it easy to get the belt on. I went from bottom to top and had someone hold the belt tight from to bottom as I put it around the alternator pulley.
Old Nov 4, 2006 | 04:00 AM
  #52  
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Default So far...

We losend the sliding bracket completely & the alternator still won't budge. The 2nd lower bolt that seems to be the point where the alternator will pivot is on TIGHT TIGHT TIGHT. I buggered the bolt & stripped it just a little so we decided to back off til we can get the tool needed to remove stripped bolts. Everything went really smooth til we got to that point.

We're calling it a night & starting fresh tomorrow. I've hit it w/ some WD-40 (being carefull not to let it get anywhere else). Hopefully that will loosen it up by morning.

For anyone else attempting this DIY I recommend going ahead & removing the passenger side headlight as well as the piece of plastic next to the radiator. You have much better access to the 2nd/lower bolt on the alternator (I wish I had done this before trying to losen it).

Thanks for the suggestions guys, I'll keep updating and post the pictures we've been taking throughout the process.
Old Nov 4, 2006 | 06:53 AM
  #53  
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Yikes, sorry to hear about the stripped bolt. I must have gotten lucky with mine because it loosened right up. I am curious to know how you like it once you get it installed.
Old Nov 4, 2006 | 11:34 AM
  #54  
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I hope mine goes easier than Savage's.
Old Nov 4, 2006 | 03:31 PM
  #55  
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The crank bolt came off easy easy. And all the others loosened right up, all except for the one. We're starting back today.

I wish you could have heard my pops. He kept repeating....
"Damned aluminum tip bolts! Pieces of $#!%!"... it was pretty comical.

So we're replacing it w/ an all steel bolt.
Old Nov 4, 2006 | 05:40 PM
  #56  
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Well I hope the 2nd time around it works out better. Let me know how it feels after the install!
Old Nov 4, 2006 | 05:47 PM
  #57  
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yeah, good luck!
Old Nov 4, 2006 | 05:53 PM
  #58  
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thanks,

Anyone have suggestions for getting that stripped bolt out>>>???
Old Nov 4, 2006 | 05:54 PM
  #59  
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have you prayed?
Old Nov 4, 2006 | 08:16 PM
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I usually just drill them out but thats my unprofessional way of getting them out. I suppose it could be possible to take a dremel with the cutting head on it and cut a flat line into and unscrew it that way as well. The only other method I know of is a screw extractor that you basically tap into the screw/bolt and back it out. I know you tried putting some WD-40 but you might have better luck with something like BlasterPB or LiquidWrench. I think the BlasterPB works better but thats a personal opinion.



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