When I push my clutch pedal in it squeaks but only after the engage point as if I were to let the clutch out.

When I let the clutch out in neutral it will squeak occasionally.

It squeaks louder and is harder to push on cold/wet days.

Now if I downshift to engine brake, I hear something odd. I hear some sort of "low frequency" grinding. Its confusing because it could be associated with this squeaky clutch problem I am having, or it could be my gears. When the engine is cold on a cold/moist day the shifting even after 30 seconds of idle is still extremely rough. It used to be a little rough but now the car moves back and forth real hard no matter how smoothly I engage the clutch.

ANY help would be appreciated, I know this is a difficult problem to diagnose without actually driving the car but this is all I have.

The pedal does not always squeak, but mostly when cold. After some driving it usually goes away, sometimes it squeaks for days. I have already sprayed some grease on the visible moving parts when having someone else milk the clutch but it is only a temporary fix

 

why down shift engine break... I hardly will ever do that...are double clutching?
Brake wear=cheap
engine wear=not so cheap

 

Because its the trendy thing to do?

 

Because I get zero fuel consumption. My Engine sounds fine. What is double clutching? I might do it I just am not familiar with the term.

HeathenBrewing....please try and help my problem not add to it. Thanks

 

ScionD engine braking is the same thing as accelarating in terms of wear and tear on the engine.

If my transmission fails before 100k or 7 years then toyota gets to give me a new one for free. otherwise a tranmission is like 150 bucks for these cars I am not really worried about money for such cheap parts.

Thanks

 

my clutch has been squeaking for 5k+. Its a simple fix but you need 2 people to do it and there my problem. There is a fork where the cable meets the tranny at the front of the engine. Have a buddy of your press the clutch while you hear the noise, you will be able to identify it immediately. Buy a little grease, push the boot back, and continue this until the noise is gone.

Where exactly is this boot and fork located, i dont know, but i have read this from many other topics and it always works for other people.

 

Double-clutching is usually reserved for those driving trucks or high performance racing cars, but anyone with a manual transmission can perform this simple feat.

For most manual transmission drivers, the act of shifting gears is a straightforward one. First the clutch is depressed, then the shifter is thrown into the next gear, and finally the clutch is released putting the car back into gear. All of this is usually done without thinking, at least after some practice.

But double clutching adds a third step into the mix. The shifter, rather than going straight to the next gear, makes a stop in neutral and then the clutch is released. This is to allow the engine to slow down (or with a tap on the gas, speed up when downshifting) so the transition into the next gear is much more smooth. The driver then depresses the clutch again and completes the shift into the target gear, and finally the clutch is released again, putting the car back into gear. It only takes a split second for the engine speed to match the speed of the gears, so the entire action is done very quickly as a fluid sequence of events.

Most modern cars, however, are equipped with devices called synchronizers that help to synchronize the speed of the gearbox with that of the engine. This effectively eliminates the need for double clutching. Some large trucks on the other hand have so many gears that synchronizers are inefficient, while race cars can squeeze out more power without them, making double clutching a fact of life.

There are times, however, that a normal car driver may want to make use of double clutching. Many manual transmission drivers realize the advantages of downshifting in slippery conditions. Rather than brake and skid, a car with a manual transmission can make use of the engine to slow down - thereby eliminating the possibility of a skid. But even with synchronizers, a driver trying to shift from fifth gear into second could have some trouble. In this case, double clutching by pausing in neutral and giving the engine a little gas to match speeds of the engine and gearbox, can allow such a drastic shift.

Some driving purists maintain that it's still the proper way to shift, and makes for a much smoother ride. It eliminates some of the jumpiness sometimes felt in a manual transmission car, and it decreases the stress on the gearbox. In any case, double clutching a skill worth having in emergency downshift situations, and not very difficult to learn.

 

i only engine brake in the snow cause the brakes due a poorer job of slowing me down cause those stop lights change mighty fast...

 

O ok so thats double clutching. Yea I do that all the time. Most of the time its smooth, sometimes I forget im doing it then i realize so i over compensate and underrev a tiny bit.

So yes i do double clutch. i never knew you could downshift without doing this O_o unless you use the brakes to reach an adequate downshifting speed.

Could this explain my problem?

thank you for the boot explanation it makes complete sense, I have only been dousing the boot with spray instead of getting it in there.