I am going to replace the plugs this weekend and also clean the MAF as well as a new air filter. The idle is better then before I brought it to the dealer........hmmm very suspicious. Either way I am going to work on all above items so I have some piece of mind, this ish is driving me nuts. Thanks for all the suggestions!

 

Currently idles in drive at 750 rpm's. In park at 900 rpm's. Sound ok?

 

that sounds normal

 

that is what mine idled at before I installed the intake. Now it's between 600-700 rpms.

 

Mine (manual tranny) idles at 800 until warmed up and when stopped for 20-30 seconds then drops to exactly 650rpm +5 - 2 rpm all the time. Scangauge Digital tach!

 

I have the scangauge too.

 

750ish sounds normal to me also. You can try fresh spark plugs pretty easily if you are even only a little bit handy. A bad spark plug wire causing a misfire can cause a rough idle as well...but most times when this happens it also causes at least a little misfire at speed as well....a slight miss might not be very noticable at speed but could be bad enuf to cause an slight engine shake while idling. Spark plug wires are not terribly difficult to change either and cost should not be terrible.

Beyond that, I would bet on a sensor, adjustment, or electronic control causing trouble, which without a good technician and likely a computer diagnostic might be difficult to find.

 

750ish sounds normal to me also. You can try fresh spark plugs pretty easily if you are even only a little bit handy. A bad spark plug wire causing a misfire can cause a rough idle as well...but most times when this happens it also causes at least a little misfire at speed as well....a slight miss might not be very noticable at speed but could be bad enuf to cause an slight engine shake while idling. Spark plug wires are not terribly difficult to change either and cost should not be terrible.

Beyond that, I would bet on a sensor, adjustment, or electronic control causing trouble, which without a good technician and likely a computer diagnostic might be difficult to find.

 

750ish sounds normal to me also. You can try fresh spark plugs pretty easily if you are even only a little bit handy. A bad spark plug wire causing a misfire can cause a rough idle as well...but most times when this happens it also causes at least a little misfire at speed as well....a slight miss might not be very noticable at speed but could be bad enuf to cause an slight engine shake while idling. Spark plug wires are not terribly difficult to change either and cost should not be terrible.

Beyond that, I would bet on a sensor, adjustment, or electronic control causing trouble, which without a good technician and likely a computer diagnostic might be difficult to find.

 

Maybe I missed this in the thread somewhere but does it do it in park ,nuetral and drive?

The plugs sound like a good start also do the DIY grounding wire set up from here-it's cheap and it solves some throttle roughness (nothing like yopurs) but it might help.

 

Maybe I missed this in the thread somewhere but does it do it in park ,nuetral and drive?

The plugs sound like a good start also do the DIY grounding wire set up from here-it's cheap and it solves some throttle roughness (nothing like yopurs) but it might help.

 

question is . . . is it a random shake or a skip like one cylinder not firing. Single cylinder skip then it is a plug or coil trigger wire - random then more likely there is a vacuum leak or bad gas??? If they screwed with the fuel system when they worked on the valves then something may be screwed up with the fuel lines or the intake manifold.

 

Seems to be random but the dealer supposedly checked all vaccum lines and all is ok. When i pull the cover off the engine tomorrow i am going to check them though.

 

Only does this in drive or reverse. In drive it sounds great as it did when I purchased the box.

 

Im gonna check with a tech here. But im pretty sure there is no way to adjust the valves. The lifters are hydralic and are regulated by oil pressure and "self-adjust". If they say they adjusted your valves, I would sugest getting your $ back.
i may be wrong though, i will check with a tech tomorrow I work at a dealer.

 

Hydralic lifters were used in old V8 engines with a central cam because the pushrods and rocker arms were so temperature sensitive to expansion and contraction they had to constantly adjust. With overhead cam shafts I doubt if hydralic lifters are being used - usually a lifter bucket and some shims directly to the valve and they very seldom if ever need adjusting. I would guess that something is getting torqed when in gear when the motor mounts flex a little and created a strain on a critical wire or creates an air leak. Get some starter fluid and spray around the intake manifold gasket and fittings and if the skip stops when the spray it feeding the leak you have found it. These engines should idle so smooth that they should barely vibrate at all in fact mine doesn't even sound like any engine I have ever heard before - just makes a hissing sound and I can barely hear pistons firing.

 

I am not sure starter fluid is the best idea-could lead to an engine fire. Gunk degreaser is approved for engines though and it would bubble or mist if there was something-plus you can hose it off and have a cleaner engine.

 

You could use water if you like - the starter fluid is use in small amounts and evaporates quickly and any that is sucked into the leak ends up burning in the engine making the engine run smoother when you spray the leak.

Now how did I know someone would say that it could start a fire . . .

 

plugs and air filter changed and the car runs like a dream. thanks for all the suggestions