ok, need to be filled in here... I'm searched the internet for some turbo kits.... found someone who (seen graphs and vids) of an xb pulling 184hp/171tq on the dyno just on 7.5lbs. But most numbers i've seen are around 145hp? whats with this?

 

With the right turbo size, supporting mods, and the ever so important tuning these number will be seen more often. Just look at some of the numbers people are putting down on the TC with ~8 lbs of boost.

 

those that are onlee pushing 145whp have low boost there not boosting high.....most of em are boosting like 4lbs

 

those pushing 145 are running it safe cuz the xb motor is not ment for boost.

 

just so you know zpi setup on the manual tranny were putting down the numbers your talking about (184) as far as their auto proshopxb is heading the testing and waiting for results. you must remeber the mods done to the car but as far as internals go every thing seems fine with the clutch uped to a stage 3...

 

im expecting 180bhp ish on standard pistons + conrods and looking to push 220/30bhp with uprated conrods and pistons, car is currently running 140bhp N/A, turbo is a garrett T3

 

... so your doing 140bhp TURBO, garrett T3... right? If you have a turbo, there is no N/A

 

It kinda of makes me sad how many people buy into turbo kits, looking at only hp numbers on a dyno chart. There is so much more to turbocharging than just HP. First of all, dont expect to make 184whp reliably just by getting a ZPI turbo kit for your XB. Its not going to happen unless you do the same mods they did,...and even then, I have asked for an AFR graph from their dyno for over a month now...which has never been posted,...and the questions seem to be ignored. I hope people learn something from these forums...and that is to get the facts...all of them, from people who have nothing to gain by going one way or the other. Yes, there is a ZPI bandwagon on these forums. There is nothing wrong about it, but it seems like these guys will eat anything ZPI throws at them. I am nuetral, only asking questions to get facts that have not been answered. I have asked questions so that others can learn what to look for, etc. when buying a turbo kit. What did I get out of it? When ZPI made 184whp, I was told to put my foot in my mouth. Everyone then thought that bolting that kit on would give you that much power. Its simply not going to happen. That car has more modifications than just the turbo kit. Also, on another post, someone asked if the car blew a headgasket or something after that run....no response. Guys, smarten up. Im not saying ZPI is bad, dont be afraid to ask questions. If they want your business and are an honest company, they will answer them....all of them, not just the ones that they want to answer.

You guys know Im running the Greddy kit. Im not on the Greddy bandwagon either. They have their own issues electronicly. Mechanically, their kit is superb for the money. I have not seen the ZPI kit, nor will I purchase it until the questions I have are answered. I looked at keiths post "dont buy ZPI click here to see why" and its kinda disturbing. I understand ZPI has their cash flow problems, but their problems are not yours...and they shouldnt be. If you want a refund, you should get it, no questions asked...it doesnt matter what problem the company is going through. Its really not the customers problem.

Anyone who is turbocharging, just do your research. How much power you get should be the least of your worries.

 

How are you getting 140whp NA?

 

+1

 

You brought up some good points.... I think the thing people should focus on is how much Safe, Reliable, Power they can achieve. Myself I'm a believer in upgrading the fuel system, proper AFR tuning, timing control (if needed), sparks/wires, alky injection/etc, and other upgrades that keep the system powerful yet safe during a boosted condition. Sure I could design a system that pushes 220whp on an xB.. .but do I want to pop a piston through the hood? No..

I honestly thing ZPI has their heads deep into what they are doing with the xB and some other development stuff besides banging out customer cars and filling orders. They should definately publish and AFR chart... From my understanding they were running a 13 on the low end and 10.5-11 on the high end... Though please don't quote me on that.. it was a late night conversation with them lol. I'm excited to see what this kit will do within reason. I'll be testing it along with a few others on a consumer basis basically installing it just like the average joe will. Since I have access to a shop and a dyno I should be able to get some relative data for us.

-cz-

 

I know. They said they were getting 10.5 AFR under boost. That makes absolutely no sense to me. As far as I know, ZPI does NOT have a dyno...because on previous posts, they said they had to take it to a shop to dyno it. Well, I do this for a living. I dyno cars all day long here and 10.5AFR is RICH. 10.5 AFR making 184whp on 7psi of boost? Thats unbelievable...Does this not make sense to anyone but me???? To get those power running 10.5 AFR on high boost, they will have to run atleast 10psi of boost, but even then, it will lean out with the added air. Im sorry to those who stand with ZPI but it doesnt sound right at all. I dont think the whole truth is being said now. Im not here to bash anyone. Id just like things to be kept honest. My car lost power when I added more fuel...thats a no brainer, and how are they in turn making more power with too much fuel? Look at their power curve. Seriously at 10.5, the cars I tune here hardly drive. Dont tell me its a different turbo set up, piping, larger AFM, etc. That might work on some kids starting out to mod their cars but it wont work on someone that does it for a living. I dont take my cars out to dyno. I have a Dynojet 224x right here. Its the same for all cars that come here. At 10.5 AFR on a nissan, toyota, scion, chevy, noble, elise, anything, youll lose power.

 

I agree with 10.5 being a bit rich... I always ran 12.5-11 at the top end on 8lbs and then 13.5-14 on the lower part of the curve. I don't do this for a living but I also have dyno access and have been working with tuning for a bit. More fuel with out more air = rich = BOG/Loss of power... and yes you could up the boost and it would probably even out actually but again, that's another tuning project.

I'm definately not disagreeing with you. I'd like to see their AFR curve as well. I'll see if I can get something from them tomorrow. As it is indeed raising questions. Dynojet 224 eh? Impressive.. and i'm jealous ;)

 

hehe, Im glad you understand where I am coming from. I was able to find my chart boost at near 10.5 AFR. Check this out. This is with .5 bar (7psi) running around 10.5 AFR. Even with boost, the power is near stock numbers. So someone is telling me that with .5 psi more boost, a test pipe and larger afm pipe, they are getting 84whp more??? LMAO....
Here is the screenshot right off my laptop.



you can see from the graph that it completely screwed up the power curve. The curve characteristics are completely different than stock or under proper boost/fuel. Nevertheless a peak of 92whp and 83wtq under boost? sad.

 

He said 140bhp, not 140whp.

 

Ok, bhp. And how was this determined? I know for a fact that intake, headers, exhaust do NOT make 40hp.

 

Rollhard, my car should be dynoed tommorow and should have an AFR chart to go along with it. Just rember mine is an Auto and will be running less boost and HP.

 

Even if we are talking brake horse power instead of wheel horse power, I still want to know how he made those numbers naturally aspirated. Using a standard 15% reduction to get wheel horse power we are still looking at 119 horse. And really, did he put is motor on an engine dyno?

Finding 119 hp to the wheels naturally aspirated is a LOT of work. More than most not familiar with our cars realize. It is going to take significantly more than the standard bolt on fair. There is a thread under Drive train and Power about someone trying to get 24 whp under natural aspiration. I don't think they ever met that goal. And that would have put them at only 115 whp.

Rollhard ain't the only one who wants the dirt. And he better tread lightly because I bet more than a couple of guys already have a hold of the "B.S. Flags" just waiting to throw them out.

 

Less boost than 7.5psi? I think that is fine for the auto. The power drop difference between the auto and the manual is minor at around 5%. According to ZPI then, you should make around 170whp. Let us know how it goes.

 

Well, this is probably how the calculation was done:

I have 108bhp or base horse power.
+ intake 10hp = 118hp
+ headers 12hp = 130hp
+ exhaust 10hp = 140hp

WOW.................................

Man, I wish I manufactured parts. There are people out that that buy anything.