jdlong

I sent an email to paul at dezod yesterday with some questions about that .pdf he wrote. In the email I asked if he was referring to the Blue (which I'm sure he was) and how he felt the ultimate stacked up.

I also asked about stand-alones they carry. I really hate to get that far into this that I've got to spend that kind of money though. A shop that is semi-local (about an hour away) is an authorized motec dealer/installer/tuner. hmm.... lol

And I guess I'll go ahead let one thing that I mentioned before out, now that it's definate.

I bought a new engine. Nothing is wrong with mine (yet) but I want to run the return through the valve cover and needed an oil pan. I called the stealership and asked about cost of an oil pan and a new valve cover (in case I need it to go back NA at some point.) .... $340!!!?! So, I found a slightly (gently) used 1.5L out of an 05 xb and bought the whole thing. It may get built one day, but for now it's there as a backup/parts engine.

The other pieces I ordered won't be here until next week.

jdlong

Hey Everyone!

I've got some things for sale. I'm parting out the Greddy Emanage Blue, the Support Tool, and the Boomslang Harness.

Check out the post about this:
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...635663#3635663

Thanks! I'll be back with more updates soon.

jdlong

So, the second engine doesn't seem like it will come to fruition. The company that sold it to me quoted shipping ranges for this and then when I went to actually pay for it, they only offered me the most expensive option. It's not worth that much to me.

On a side note, I will be working soon to re-run the oil lines, still need to install the oil cooler and krank vents and I've got my new AEM F/IC in.

If redoing the lines doesn't fix the oil problem, then it's got to be the turbo itself and I'll be pulling it. More updates soon.

TuningIsLife

watching

jdlong

I had a little bit of time to work on the car this weekend, so here's another update.

As I mentioned before, I'm redoing the oil lines for the turbo. I removed the drain that returns to the oil pan from the pump. I can't replace the pan at this time, so I bought a cap to seal that one off.



I will be shortening this line and running it to the valve cover. I am running the return next to the filler cap.





I prepped for the install of the oil cooler and got my fittings from Earl's Plumbing together to finish off the lines.





You can see the bulkhead there for the valvecover. I will deal with length/fitment issues of that later tonight.

Here's a shot of it installed.





I am still running everything from my oil filter sandwich adapter because my tee for the block is metric and all I could locate was standard fittings. I'll have to order something if there is still a problem, or just to be 'safer' later. I don't like the idea of the sandwich adapter as being permanent. We will have to wait and see.

So, a breakdown of how this works... Oil goes from the sandwich filter adapter (1/8th npt to 5/16th barb) through a rubber hose that came with the oil cooler. (You can see it enter the cooler on the bottom in the pic above. I'm running flow from bottom to top... anything to slow it down some.) It comes out the cooler into a piece of hose that makes the following connections:

5/16th bart to 1/8th npt >
1/8th female coupling >
1/8th .060 restrictor >
1/8th to -4 AN reducer >
-4 AN female coupling >
-4 AN inline screen oil filter >
-4 AN braided hose >
-4 AN to -3 AN reducer >
-3 AN .035 restrictor >
-3 AN 90 degree elbow >
turbo

On the return side I'm using:

-6 AN 90 degree elbow >
-6 AN braided hose >
-6 AN 90 degree elbow to 5/8th npt (I believe this is the pump size. Could be mistaken)>
Shurflo 8000 pump >
5/8th npt 90 degree elbow to -6 AN >
-6 AN braided hose >
-6 AN bulkhead fitting in the valve cover.

Flame suit on, but, it got the job done. I'll be fitting the valve cover bulkhead, welding it on, and starting the install of the AEM F/IC tonight. More later.

TuningIsLife

Why an oil cooler?

jdlong

Two reasons really... First off cooler oil can never hurt. It will help extend the life of some components. The second reason is I'm still trying to get that huge pressure of oil reduced before getting to the turbo. You can see all the connections up there that I'm running to try and achieve this. With the presence of the oil cooler, the oil will cool down, thus expanding it and increasing it's viscosity, in turn reducing the pressure down the line. Granted it's a very miniscule amount, it can't hurt to try. Imagine drinking tea through a straw and then a milkshake. The same amount of pressure isn't going to get the same result.

In other news... I tried to test fit my bulkhead on the valvecover. It was too long. So, as you can see in the pic above there are threads>a nut>threads>blank spot>threads. I cut the bottom threads off at the blank spot. I test fit the new length in the valvecover and it worked great! (temporarily) I was really concerned that it was so close to the timing chain. But, I decided to go ahead with it. I rtv'd it and tightened it down.

It didn't fit anymore. lol. The nut didn't clear the chain. So, I removed it, ordered a weld-on bulkhead and had that installed yesterday.

(Side note for noob's... it's aluminum. If you're going to do this you need to find someone with a TIG or Heliarc welder. I don't recommend jb weld be used. If you're going to the trouble of doing this, do it right. If you plan on jb'ing it I'd rather see you return it through the filler cap. ) - $.02

I hope to get back out there soon and will post another update when I do.

jdlong

Woohoo! Over 16000 page views!

I've been working on the car, but mostly pulling miles of wiring for lights, oil pump, suspension (EDFC), gauges, etc. So, since this is the forced induction section I'm still keeping this thread for items specific to that. All that needs to be noted is that I'm running the oil pump off of the ignition "On" side. I originally ran it to "Acc" with a switch I would always leave on. That way if I wanted to just listen to the radio/watch a movie/etc. I could kill the pump. But, I realized I can just put the key in the "On" position a few seconds before cranking it just as easy.

Then I came up with this... the only thing is it adds more to the ever growing (rediculously long) chain of fitings running the oil through my turbo. I am thinking about installing a 1psi check valve on the return side so that when the car is shut off, none of the oil in the line to the pump will drain back to the turbo. I may also do this on the feed side, but I'm not sure I want to tackle that just yet.

I ran the vacuum hose for the AEM F/IC tonight. It goes from my Blok through a grommet on the passenger side that has two nipples on it. This was a PITA to get through behind the heater core, but it's in. The F/IC will go in next and I'll post some pics of the cleaned up engine bay when all the wiring is finished.

I did repaint the valve cover, shorten the return line from the pump to the vc and installed it.

Items left to tackle:
1. Add oil (the only one I'm confident I can do easily.. lol)
2. Wire EVERYTHING
3. Base tune the F/IC so I can get it on the road and record some closed loop fuel trims
4. Install the dash/interior
5. Install shift light
6. Mount the front bumper/undercarriage barrier
7. Give her a bath!
8. Get a good running tune to get it to the dyno!

I'll post more updates when I can... Thanks for looking still!

Black_Sheep_xB

cool man.. good luck with all the rest!!

TuningIsLife

lets home you got the oil problem figured out

Black_Sheep_xB

I want an oil cooler

one day..
I have a sandwhich adapter that doesnt fit... arrgh!!

Sciond

wow this has been a deep rabbit hole...

TuningIsLife

Take the Red Pill
Take the Blue Pill

jdlong

I need to take the advil.

TuningIsLife

Hell I spent an hour yesterday just putting my TRD exhaust back on. 95% of that time was removing the stock exhaust.

jdlong

Well.. I've almost finished all of the wiring. At least from the front seats forward. I have to cut a hole for the iPod cable to pass into the glovebox and wire my oil pump. Then the dash goes back in and the bumper gets reattached.

I'll then be able to start tuning. I'm using an Auterra 501-a DashDyno to log my short and long term fuel trims. I know I should have done this prior to adding the turbo, but too late now. I'll log this data for about 60 miles and then start tuning the AEM F/IC closed loop section based off of this. This all assumes that it runs 60 miles. lol. I'll probably do that beginning of next week so expect an update in two weeks.

TuningIsLife

Have you fixed the oil in the turbo piping/exhaust problem? That was my biggest problem. Though I think a new Turbo and new pump might fix that.

jdlong

we will see. I havenz tried the new arangement yet. If it is still a problem I will be rebuilding the turbo and going away from the diaphram style pump (ie: shurflo) and getting a gear driven pump. I will let you know what I learn this weekend.

On a side note... a sump for the drain could work on the turbo. There is just not a lot of room.

Hey tuningislife... did your setup keep the head shield at the cat/turbo? I removed mine and I'm a little concerned about the shift linkages running there.

TuningIsLife

I removed all heat shielding. Every now and then I would get a metal vibration that I couldn't put my finger on. That combined with the oil feed hose rubbing on the heat shield and making it impossible to work on. I never noticed any problems when I took the system off and I was running around with it making 7psi.

jdlong

Good to know. Thanks.

Also, I called Autometer today. I noticed on my Nexxus gauges that four of them are exactly alike in brightness and the boost gauge is noticeably dimmer. They said to mail the boost gauge and a "good" gauge to them and they will calibrate them to match. I will wait until I have it running well before pulling this I believe. But, awesome tech support on their part.