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So I got like 95% of the stuff disconnected from the top of the engine. Originally I had assumed I would be able to pull the engine and transmission like diagonally forward and up and out but I think it will have to be lowered out.
Also I was curious about the condition of the turbo and as far as I can tell now its held up.
There wasn't oil in the boost side, the spindle thing doesn't have any wiggle. The bad news... both of the tiny bolts had hold the lines on the A/C condenser broke off so I guess Ill just drill out the busted bolts and retap new ones.
The motor is out. Unfortunately problems arose. While undoing the A/C lines there is this gash from something, maybe the wastegate. Also and what I was assuming was going to happen cause it always happens... 2 of the subframe bolts broke. The nut is secured to a little base that is spot welded in place.
Obviously I'm pretty salty about this but I thought I was really screwed but yeah.... ugh. I think ill remake the floor plate the nut is stuck on and use the spot weld holes to weld the new base in.
When removing the subframe the manual wants you to just disconnect the high pressure line from the P/S pump to the rack but the line nut looked pretty corroded so I left it and had to take the pump off the motor so that was a pain.
@mrrcom, I was considered for my Scion xB 2004 to get a new engine with low miles. That time will be when I will go over 500K Miles. Constantly I check the rust situation of the bolts, frame, and other engine parts. I keep buying to replace nuts original parts from the Toyota dealer. I found that stainless steel nuts from like The Home Depot are cheaper and will rust slower. Lately it is hard to find those in The Home Depot (in millimeters). I had a mechanic in 1994. He told me if I will change regularly the oil, check to have a good battery, a good alternator, and to drive without any engine sensors ON (check engine lights on), I can keep any car for long time.
@mrrcom, I was considered for my Scion xB 2004 to get a new engine with low miles. That time will be when I will go over 500K Miles. Constantly I check the rust situation of the bolts, frame, and other engine parts. I keep buying to replace nuts original parts from the Toyota dealer. I found that stainless steel nuts from like The Home Depot are cheaper and will rust slower. Lately it is hard to find those in The Home Depot (in millimeters). I had a mechanic in 1994. He told me if I will change regularly the oil, check to have a good battery, a good alternator, and to drive without any engine sensors ON (check engine lights on), I can keep any car for long time.
Its a good thing your so diligent with the upkeep of your car. I wish I could say the same. I was trying to get a bolt out from one of the lower control arms and that whole corner of the subframe is rusted badly so I decided not to try and remove it, its another hidden nut thing.
also here is a good picture of how you can make the non toyota brand block heater work in our motors, I highly recommend doing this! I tried getting everything in the pic but the hole for the heater sits right next to the transmission. The heater has this little step that make it so you cant slide it in. So you need to cut off the excess. Its pretty easy and doesnt mess with the two prongs in the heater.
So this was a pretty upsetting holdup. I had the black fittings and as you can see they don't fit at all with the axle. Looking at the rest of the pan there is pretty much no other place you could put a bung. Well at least I cant. I thought I was going to have to use the pan with the fitting.
I'm sure going in the cover is probably the worst spot to have the oil return BUT I found out they make 90deg bulkhead fittings so I got one of them and some push lock hose. Luckily its low enough profile that it fits with generous space. Also FORGET braided hoses the push lock stuff is way better!
So now basically I have to put the bumper cover on, assemble the hubs, fill the fluids, hood and then check everything again.
So yesterday I got it going! Drove it around and to and from work... only one code came up so far and it was the 0420 catalytic low threshold... maybe because there isnt a cat lol
I have to say filling the mounts with that goop was a bad idea. Maybe filling the rear mount will keep the motor from rotating forward and back better but the other two side mounts don't need to be stiff. I will be getting the old ones out the garbage and reinstall them if they are fine
I think this original motor had like 160k miles. The two inner pistons were like loose in the cylinder... well all of them were but those two were the worst I didn't take any measurements but you can see a gap in the pic.
My coworker said maybe I had some head gasket leaking too because of the ridge of junk at the top of the cylinder. I still have the new stock pistons and rings so im wondering if I could rebuild this in the future.
We'll see.
a gap would not surprise me given this engines affinity for burning oil. I think I also see wear marks on all cylinder walls, but it could be lighting as well. I don't know enough about re-honing but I would get an expert opinion before putting it back together.
@mrrcom, there is a web-site with 10 bullet points, about the traditional gaskets, silicone gaskets, and how to install them for your application. The link looks like this: https://www.permatex.com/ten-common-...ature%20cycles.
Here is also explains why the O2 sensor reacts and the computer gets P 420 failure code at the beginning.
The car manufacturers have new car battery technology. With the battery will be build the body of the cars.
The charge of a car battery take like 40 minutes to one hour. Too long time. I am waiting to buy the next generation electric car that will look like Scion xB first generation.
The pictures all look pretty normal to me. The golden color in the camshaft area could be an indication of some excess heat
The cylinders still show the hone marks, which is amazing after 160K miles.
Pistons are smaller cold because they are aluminum which expands more than steel.
To see how much the cylinders have worn down, you can take a top piston ring and place it in the bottom of the cylinder liner and level it up with the piston, then measure the gap. It should be unworn in this area.
Do the same in the middle (push piston half way up), then at the top of where the compression ring goes to. There may even be a ridge there. Don't measure on top of the ridge.
The difference between the top and bottom gaps - divided by 3 (or Pi) tells you how much the cylinders have worn and weather it needs a rebore or not.
The pictures all look pretty normal to me. The golden color in the camshaft area could be an indication of some excess heat
The cylinders still show the hone marks, which is amazing after 160K miles.
Pistons are smaller cold because they are aluminum which expands more than steel.
To see how much the cylinders have worn down, you can take a top piston ring and place it in the bottom of the cylinder liner and level it up with the piston, then measure the gap. It should be unworn in this area.
Do the same in the middle (push piston half way up), then at the top of where the compression ring goes to. There may even be a ridge there. Don't measure on top of the ridge.
The difference between the top and bottom gaps - divided by 3 (or Pi) tells you how much the cylinders have worn and weather it needs a re bore or not.
Originally Posted by Chunjee
a gap would not surprise me given this engines affinity for burning oil. I think I also see wear marks on all cylinder walls, but it could be lighting as well. I don't know enough about re-honing but I would get an expert opinion before putting it back together.
Dang I'll have to measure them for fun. I know this has to be worked on at the engine shop... probably get the oversized stock pistons to be super safe. So far I don't need it LOL the new one is going good. I need to look into putting the new fuel pump in or in addition convert to a return system.
@mrrcom, there is a web-site with 10 bullet points, about the traditional gaskets, silicone gaskets, and how to install them for your application. The link looks like this: https://www.permatex.com/ten-common-...ature%20cycles.
Here is also explains why the O2 sensor reacts and the computer gets P 420 failure code at the beginning.
The car manufacturers have new car battery technology. With the battery will be build the body of the cars.
The charge of a car battery take like 40 minutes to one hour. Too long time. I am waiting to buy the next generation electric car that will look like Scion xB first generation.
LOL I always used maybe too much but I saw some video of a guy putting some engine together and he was just like piping it on like a cake haha. Seriously you don't want a bit to get stuck in an oil passage or anything and ruin everything. I placed little dabs and followed Toyota's path were to put it and it worked perfect.
When the batteries and cars get to a point were I could buy a slightly crap one for 7K and be able to get 300miles on a charge is when I get into EV haha
Removing my Motor..
BUT I found out they make 90deg bulkhead fittings so I got one of them and some push lock hose. Luckily its low enough profile that it fits with generous space. Also FORGET braided hoses the push lock stuff is way better!
