Engine Removal
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Scion Evolution
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 2,860
From: Motor City
Hey everyone, I need some tips for engine removal. I ordered the Toyota engine hangers which will be here on saturday. I have also been reading the toyota service manual which says to leave the engine attached to the subframe and pull both out at the same time. The remove the front and rear mounts to remove the engine from the subframe.
Anyone got any tips to help me or anyone who is trying this in the future?
Anyone got any tips to help me or anyone who is trying this in the future?
Thats stupid on the subframe thing and never made since to me - ive pulled two diff 2az's now - with my most recent in under 5hrs and went smooth as hell
Neither of which i pulled the engine cradle - the way i did it was to remove the front and rear engine mount center bolts while i had my hoist attached for saftey - put tension on the hoist - than removed the tranny and pass side motor mounts freeing the motor - than tilt it to driver side to free the pass side mount and completely remove the mount from the motor - than bring the motor foward and up and out. You can pm me if youd like my phone number to give me a ring for any help. Ill be putting my 2az back in this weekend
Neither of which i pulled the engine cradle - the way i did it was to remove the front and rear engine mount center bolts while i had my hoist attached for saftey - put tension on the hoist - than removed the tranny and pass side motor mounts freeing the motor - than tilt it to driver side to free the pass side mount and completely remove the mount from the motor - than bring the motor foward and up and out. You can pm me if youd like my phone number to give me a ring for any help. Ill be putting my 2az back in this weekend
Like they said, it's pretty straight forward. Leave the sub frame on the car. The trickiest part is the pass side mount as stated you need to watch it it loves to snag on the ABS lines. I've pulled my enegine single handedly without a problem but it's much easier with a friend. Take the Alternator and A/C comp off first along with the radiator.
oh and buy a bag of zip ties to hold things out of the way the ones that are about 12 inches long they work great to hold the ac comp and all that stuff without zipties and duct tape its not fun the only hard part i had was the tranny just push it off to the side
Originally Posted by thendawg
Yea watch out for the ac line that runs over that pass side mount - as for the power steering i recommend removing all power steering lines along wiht the resevoir - but thats just my suggestion 
the epa hates me all fluids from my motor ended up in the same bucket lol oil anti freeze power steering fluid some peee some spit a little beer and some jack d and some blood i cut myself alot like i always do well more busted of scabs and bleed all over my motor mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm bloody motor mmmmmmmmmm
IMO I would leave the engine bolted to the transmission but disconnect all the mounts and pull both together it is a lot easier to separate them outside of the car. As well as bolt up.
ok heres a few tips i hae found very helpful while doing mines and doing 2 other friends that have not been mentioned here already
1. you do not need to crack the hub nuts on the axles to slide the axles out of the tranny and half shaft. All you need to do is loosen the 2 nuts and 1 bolt on the lower arm that rests on the bottom of the knuckle assembly.. once those are out. you should be able to turn the aseembly left or right (depending on the side your working on and you should be able to take out the axle from the tranny and half shaft side. YOU WILL NEED something to put under the knuckle assembly/hub assembly as it will fall straight down to the floor if you do not support it and keep it level or atleast in close proximity of its original location. you also wana keep it form swiveling down to much because you will pinch and damage the ball joint used in the tie rod. so make sure u have some bricks, a few crates or anything u can use to fully support then weight.. doing this saves you from buying the 36 point 32mm socket you need to crack the nut and pull the axle out from the hub... its a time saver and money saver... once you have taken both axles out its quick to pull the motor is everything else is loose..
2. you dont need to loosen the subframe to take it out.. all you need to do is make sure the rear tranny mount has been taken completely out and that you have removed the shift linkage first before doing so. this will let you easily rock the motor back and tilt it in any direction once all the other tranny mount and front mount have been taken out of the way also which you should do first anyhow..
3. use a cherry picker with a tilting lift unit (tilts left and right when facing the car)... once you have all the sensors and grounds removed and all the harnesses moved out of the way with some tie straps tilt the motor down to the drivers side and pull the motor up on a small angle. this allow easy access to the last mount you want to remove on the passenger side and also will help you clear the from crossmemeber on the body when the oil pan gets close to it.. when its level its more time and more hoisting u need to do to get it out..
1. you do not need to crack the hub nuts on the axles to slide the axles out of the tranny and half shaft. All you need to do is loosen the 2 nuts and 1 bolt on the lower arm that rests on the bottom of the knuckle assembly.. once those are out. you should be able to turn the aseembly left or right (depending on the side your working on and you should be able to take out the axle from the tranny and half shaft side. YOU WILL NEED something to put under the knuckle assembly/hub assembly as it will fall straight down to the floor if you do not support it and keep it level or atleast in close proximity of its original location. you also wana keep it form swiveling down to much because you will pinch and damage the ball joint used in the tie rod. so make sure u have some bricks, a few crates or anything u can use to fully support then weight.. doing this saves you from buying the 36 point 32mm socket you need to crack the nut and pull the axle out from the hub... its a time saver and money saver... once you have taken both axles out its quick to pull the motor is everything else is loose..
2. you dont need to loosen the subframe to take it out.. all you need to do is make sure the rear tranny mount has been taken completely out and that you have removed the shift linkage first before doing so. this will let you easily rock the motor back and tilt it in any direction once all the other tranny mount and front mount have been taken out of the way also which you should do first anyhow..
3. use a cherry picker with a tilting lift unit (tilts left and right when facing the car)... once you have all the sensors and grounds removed and all the harnesses moved out of the way with some tie straps tilt the motor down to the drivers side and pull the motor up on a small angle. this allow easy access to the last mount you want to remove on the passenger side and also will help you clear the from crossmemeber on the body when the oil pan gets close to it.. when its level its more time and more hoisting u need to do to get it out..
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