If it can be done with out trashing my transmission (Auto) can I put either on the car and which ine would be better?

 

That's a good question and is really dependant on what tranny you are running and what you want to do.
Usually a SC will give you increased HP over a wider band, but boosting will give you more HP once the RPM's are up.
The SC is belt driven so there is power instantaniously. However, driving the SC will rob you of some HP.
The turbo requires exhaust gasses to be flowing to work properly, so either throw up the revs on your manual trans, or wait for your rmps to build. Then you will feel it kick in

I was raised building muscle cars so my fav is the blower. A BIG 8-71 blower!
The Top Fuel Dragster blowers were taken from 18 Wheelers. The 8-71 meant that for every 8 cylinders, it would produce 71 HP per cylinder. YOW! The 6-71 and 4-71 are the same ratios.

Why settle for just one??? I saw a show on SPEED setting top speeds on a dry lake bed. The guy had a blown twin-turbo!!!! That it some seroius HP!!

Good luck and fun.. Otherwise it's not worth doing.

 

I need to know if its ok to do with an auto tranny

 

moved for more answers

 

IMO Manual is the way to go for Turbo / any forced induction. That's just my opinion though.

 

I have a SC with auto and never a problem (82,000 miles+). It is due for a tranny maint. and am going to have a filter and fluid change soon. Blitz does recommend a tranny cooler for thier SC.

 

Ako, he's already got an auto box, so unless he's willing to trade it in for a manual debating which transmission type is better is a moot point.

Neither F/I method will stress the tranny ore than the other, so don't let that be your limiting factor. In fact, the Greddy s/c even says 'designed for automatic transmissions'. The turbo is marketed for use with either auto or manual.

Get a transmission oil cooler, it will add years to the transmission life, and don't mash the gas too often and you'll be fine. Also, get 1 step colder spark plugs. NGK has a great explination of spark plug heat ratings here:

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_su...2.asp?mode=nml

The stock Toyota Auto Trans Fluid is already synthetic, so you shouldn't need to replace it. If you do decide to, it's under a Toyota T-IV specification, NOT a Dextron / Mercon spec. If you swap fluid, Redline makes Synthetic D4 ATF and Synthetic High-Temp ATF that is compatible. Amsoil's synthetic universal automatic transmission fluid is also compatible.

I'd also recommending switching to a synthetic 5W-30 motor oil for the engine, especially with a turbo. I'm using Mobil 1 because it's on sale at Advanced Auto pretty much all the time. You can get Toyota filters from trdsparks dirt cheap if you buy them in the 10 pack as well. You won't need the TRD filter, the standard toyota is fine as long as you change it every 5k miles. You may also want to go to a 3k mile oil change interval with the turbo.

I had the Greddy supercharger, it worked fine and gave 114 WHP up from 86 WHP, so the power is noticeable. The belt WILL squeal in the winter though, and there is no easy way to get more power out of it. I'd recommend turbo simply because if you want more HP later, you can add an intercooler and a boost controller. Also it may not stress the engine as much since it's working off of exhaust gas pressure and not shaft HP. You can keep the stock engine cover as well.

I now have the Greddy turbo kit but am waiting to install it until I build an engine because I want 130 - 150 WHP and the stock block won't easily hold it. I will be upping the boost from 5 psi to about 11 if the injectors and eManage can handle it.