mijos87

i need help, i want to get more power outa my box but im not sure wether to go turbo or super charge my box? ive researched and have found different numbers for the same kits!!! can any body (with proof) lemme know what they have been getting thier set ups? i need feedback!

SLOW4point0

turbocharging will always make more power because they are more efficient. I am not sure about the xb specific "kits" but if you piece one together you should be able to make decent power.

Cinderblock

turbo's will make more power but need more knowledge, tuning to work properly. a supercharger is deff. more bolt on and will just run, does not tuning, and can be taken off much easier if you have to meet smog, if you dont need to tho deff. go wit a turbo, either turbotoyota's kit or zpi's kit each one is gettin alot of power. the greddy kit is good, but comes with no intercooler and it suffers greatly from it, but theirs an intercooler, BOV and diff wastegates you can get all through greddy to boost the power quite a bit. that help?

mijos87

the zpi kits out? from what ive read the kit "supposedly" exsists but theres none being shipped out

JSosa

turbo charging is way more complicated then Supercharging. You can just put on an SC and your off, as for the turbo you have to be very careful. You cannot over boost because you will blow your engine, you have to have a close eye on your oil pressure and temperature, since the oil lines run to the turbo and back, the oil gets very hot and very thin. You must make sure oil doesnt leak out from anywhere and you must keep it cool. Since our cars are only fitted with a light that "reads" our oil pressure, a gauge is very important. Im going turbo and look at all the parts i had to buy:

Not all these parts are necessary to put on a turbo kit, but will help to keep you from blowing up your engine.
1.) Greddy Profec Boost Controller ($300)
2.) Greddy Turbo Timer ($80)
3.) Perrin Fuel Rail ($140)
4.) 2ZZ-GE Injectors ($80)
5.) Oil Pressure gauge ($330, for all gauges)
6.) Oil Temperature gauge
7.) Water Temperature gauge
8.) Pyrometer gauge
9.) Boost Gauge
10.) Camcon ($300)
11.) LC-1 Wide-band sensor ($200)
12.) Spec Stage 2 Clutch ($300)
13.) Agency Power SS Clutch line ($36)

Of course the most important part
12.) Turbo kit, which comes with: ($3,000)
a.) Ball Bearing Garrett Turbo
b.) Intercooler
c.) Charge Pipes
d.) Turbo Manifold
e.) Water and Oil lines for the turbo
f.) Blow off Valve
g.) Installation brackets and pieces

Now to install a supercharger
1.) Super Charger Kit ($3,000)

Thats it your done, bolt it up and your good to go. Of course you wont get the same amount of power, but you will be much more safe. After I install the turbo kit im going to have to be careful with the PSI, the turbo being used can easily churn out 18 PSI without a problem, but our engine wont handle that much boost. After all this is installed and working properly these are the list of parts that i still need:

1.) Low Compression Pistons ($500)
2.) Forged Rods ($700)
3.) Megasquirt Stand alone ECU ($500)
4.) Fuel Pump ($250)
5.) TC injectors ($100)

Then put the PSI up to 12 and see what happens, if the engine blows then $hit, but if not, im hoping for 180WHP, of course, thats after spending about $6,000 on the engine alone...

EasysBox

if all you want is to make the box a little faster and a lot more fun to drive and dont want to worry about it, then go with a GReddy s/c. if you want a mean street machine and are all about HP, well you probably shouldnt have gotten a box ;) but go with a turbo, you will go faster and create more HP, but it is a lot more complicated and not as reliable in the install it and forget it sense. so when deciding, you need to ask yourself what you want the kit for.

Cinderblock

ya im goin with the power enterprises centrifugal supercharger so i can run an intercooler and pipe in a BOV cuz superchargers have that same backspin pressure build as a turbo does when you let off the throttle just not nearly as bad. that PE kit makes around 147 hp bolt on.

mijos87

Jsosa good luck with that homie and get back with how that turns out sounds promising

mijos87

the PE kits pulls off 147hp? so how much whp would that come out to then? would u happen to know? and how much psi does that turn out? how about the greddy how much whp for that one?

Cinderblock

wheel i duno maybe around 138 or so i think, i still cant find out how to conert kpa to psi all i know is makes 0.5 kpa whatever psi that is lol. and that without an intercooler itd get more with the intercooler cuz the pressure drop and greater concentration of air.

mijos87

multiply by .145 so that would be like .0725 psi...... ummm thats not alot of boost.........
http://www.akronbrass.com/pages/products/metric.htm

mijos87

i may be wrong about that so u might wanna double check that..... but if i am right then an intercooler wouldnt help either... u c since the pressure isnt that high in the first place it wouldnt create that much heat therefore u'd only cause a loss in pressure........ that is if im correct.....

mijos87

does any one know that gains on the blitz and/or greddy s/c's?

EasysBox

rule of thumb, you lose 15% hp by the time it gets to the wheels... roughly that is

mijos87

so lets say a kit give u 50 hp, so in total we got 152 hp, 15% needs to be subracted (give or take) and that will be my whp?

JSosa

Our cars claim to have a total of 108 HP at the flywheel, when you dyno the car you get 89WHP, if im not mistaken. Thats a 19HP difference, which is 17.6% HP loss. Thats why its so important to make sure that these companies are testing HP at the wheels and not at the flywheel.
Lets say you supercharge and pull a 140WHP at the dyno, at the flywheel your making 164.64HP, if we use the same 17.6% HP loss. But if the kit claims to make 145 HP then your actually making 119.8 WHP. WHP and HP are two very different measurements, but the really important one is the WHP, thats the one that gets you moving. What you have to take in consideration is that our block wont hold more then 200HP without breaking a piston rod or cracking a piston sleeve.
I know there must be 2 or 3 people out there with boxes and xA making 200WHP, but ask them how many times they have busted their engines. I have personally seen xB's here in Puerto Rico pull 180-220WHP at the dyno's. But when i talk to the owners, they ALL tell me the same thing, this isn't my OEM engine Ive changed because Ive broken 2 or 3 engines in the past. The most amount of reliable WHP you can get out of the 1NZ-FE is 180WHP, and thats the number im shooting for.

mijos87

me too i dont need all that much being that the box is already a light car and im the only one that really gets in there, im shooting for at least 150 - 180 whp,

mijos87

wait a sec so i take away 15% from the hp and then another 17%(give or take) feom that?

JSosa

The 15% was just a rough estimate from what cars loose in comparison from flywheel HP to Wheel HP. The true number compared to what Toyota gives us and a base test dyno run comes out to be 17.6% lost from the flywheel power. All you have to do is calculate from 17.6%, forget about the 15%.

mijos87

ohhhhh thanks for the clear up