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Breaking in my speakers... how?!

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Old Apr 29, 2004 | 03:07 AM
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Default Breaking in my speakers... how?!

How's it done? i've got a set of focal polyglass components in front and coax's in the rear, and an IDQ v2 12" sitting in back...

i got it installed on monday and now i need to know how to break these in!

any and all insight is appreciated and needed

thanks everyone
Old Apr 29, 2004 | 03:32 AM
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ummmmm you can try playing your music for starts
Old Apr 29, 2004 | 03:41 AM
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no i mean like, how do i break them in... like... you break in the engine of a car.... (not supposed to do certain things and all)
Old Apr 29, 2004 | 03:52 AM
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never heard that one before for audio...
Old Apr 29, 2004 | 03:56 AM
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The advice that I got with my sub was just to play music for a couple hours at a reasonable volume. Take a little roadtrip or just park the car and let the music play (don't kill your battery). After you've let them run at half volume for a while, feel free to bump away.
Old Apr 29, 2004 | 04:13 AM
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Check out the guys at elitecaraudio.com and see what they have to say. Might have some ideas for you.
Old Apr 29, 2004 | 04:30 AM
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When I got my stuff installed, I listened to it at low volume while I was tweaking my sound. But, I doubt there is a "break-in" period for speakers. Focal and ID are two good brands, and it's not like their stuff will fall apart.

Mike R.
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Old Apr 29, 2004 | 04:38 AM
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Speakers generally won't need a break in time, subs are put under more stress and each sub make/model has a different recommended break in time, mine was a week minimum. Your speakers won't be seeing near enough power or moving enough to 'cause need for a break in period.

Don't worry about and crank the suckers. Have fun.

Jordan
Old Apr 29, 2004 | 11:28 AM
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alright... thanks everyone
Old Apr 30, 2004 | 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by failed_ethics
Speakers generally won't need a break in time, subs are put under more stress and each sub make/model has a different recommended break in time, mine was a week minimum. Your speakers won't be seeing near enough power or moving enough to 'cause need for a break in period.

Don't worry about and crank the suckers. Have fun.

Jordan
Very good points.

Break-in for drivers (subwoofers, or otherwise) is to losen the suspension (surround and spider) for optimal sound. There is no need for break-in, as it will happen during play anyways. Subwoofers generally get louder after they get broken in, which is why competitors try not to use fresh out of the box woofers at shows. Usually, they run them free air with a 20hz tone to get a lot of suspension travel going.

Other than that, break-in will occur normally... there is no need to take it easy on a speaker for the first few weeks like i've heard people say... the real story is, after the first few weeks they will break-in on their own and become (slightly) louder.
Old Apr 30, 2004 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by jdaniels

Usually, they run them free air with a 20hz tone to get a lot of suspension travel going.
To clarify this for anyone that has a brand new woofer they're thinking of breaking in, this is done with the gains on your amp set as low as possible and very low volumes. It's generally not recommened to run a speaker free air that isn't intended for free air use.
Old May 1, 2004 | 06:07 PM
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omg, too much work, just install it and blast it....i've done it for the last 6 years, come and get your ear drums popped if you dont believe me



otherwise, just use it at low volume for a week or so
Old May 1, 2004 | 09:31 PM
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Default Insructions for breaking in your new stereo and speakers

Breaking your high end system is extremely important. There are a few steps that you have to take to see if you need to upgrade any of the weak stock electrical components:

1) First thing you have to do is replace the blinker cooling fluid in both of the new design xenon head lights that Scion installed at the factory, as the huge draw from your new system will adversely affect current flow from the alternator to the lights. You can tell if you really need to replace this with a higher cooling blinker fluid if the lights on your truck dim at all when the system is really pumping.

2) You may consider upgrading the factory Toyota capacitor on the alternator to one of Pioneers new high capacity flux capacitors. They make a 1.21 jigawatt flux capacitor to really handle the draw of the most high end systems.

3) If that doesn't work pick up a left handed screwdriver from the specialty parts counter at your local auto store to attach an exhaust sample kit (looks like a black contractor trash bag). Let your vehicle warm up and attach the kit to the tail pipe using the left handed screwdriver--Important make sure that crossthreading is complete, otherwise the sample will blow past the bag. Now turn on your system and slowly turn it up over a period of thrity seconds. Take the sample to the dealership while it is still warm. The draw from the stereo may or may not affect the idle of your vehicle as the alternator struggles to keep up with the factory capacitor. The exhaust sample will allow the dealership to determine if you need to upgrade your capacitor as discussed above. Scion offers a small upgraded one with the 6 disc stereo with the Bazooka sub as well, but that Pioneer 1.21 jigawatt flux capacitor is what Toyota is installing in all the Lexus' with the Mark and Levinson system.

4)Final step to really figuring out if your system is broken in or not is to sit in the vehicle, start it and then turn the stereo on. Make sure that the low end is all the way up (bass) and that the highs are hitting to (turn the treble all the way up). Now, turn the volume up as high as it goes. Sit inside vehicle for at least 30 minutes at this volume to determine if there are any problems as the music plays. After 30 minutes of hearing it turned all the way up you should definitely be able to tell if it is broken in or not.

Best of Luck!

B
Old May 1, 2004 | 09:43 PM
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Default Re: Insructions for breaking in your new stereo and speakers

Originally Posted by bryanb124
2) You may consider upgrading the factory Toyota capacitor on the alternator to one of Pioneers new high capacity flux capacitors. They make a 1.21 jigawatt flux capacitor to really handle the draw of the most high end systems.
I've heard driving 88mph helps too.. ;)
Old May 1, 2004 | 11:58 PM
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1. Drive car to middle of dry lake or salt flat, well away from others.

2. Don hearing protection.

3. Insert test CD featureing a loud 40Hz continuous tone.

4. Turn volume control to "11".

5. Turn power on.

6. Wait until vibration ceases from both speakers.

Now your speakers will be well "broken in"!

HTH
Old May 2, 2004 | 12:12 AM
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I don't think an "11" on the Stock headunit is quite what you mean, maybe a 65 would do it...

Now, which way is it to the stage?
Old May 2, 2004 | 12:43 AM
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bwahahahaha
Old May 2, 2004 | 06:36 PM
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Most GOOD Speaker manufactuers load there woofers before they even leave the factor and hit your local stereo shop.
Old May 2, 2004 | 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by TheScionicMan
I don't think an "11" on the Stock headunit is quite what you mean, maybe a 65 would do it...

Now, which way is it to the stage?
Nigel Tufnel: The numbers all go to eleven. Look, right across the board, eleven, eleven, eleven and...
Marty DiBergi: Oh, I see. And most amps go up to ten?
Nigel Tufnel: Exactly.
Marty DiBergi: Does that mean it's louder? Is it any louder?
Nigel Tufnel: Well, it's one louder, isn't it? It's not ten. You see, most blokes, you know, will be playing at ten. You're on ten here, all the way up, all the way up, all the way up, you're on ten on your guitar. Where can you go from there? Where?
Marty DiBergi: I don't know.
Nigel Tufnel: Nowhere. Exactly. What we do is, if we need that extra push over the cliff, you know what we do?
Marty DiBergi: Put it up to eleven.
Nigel Tufnel: Eleven. Exactly. One louder.
Marty DiBergi: Why don't you just make ten louder and make ten be the top number and make that a little louder?
Nigel Tufnel: [Pause] These go to eleven.
Old May 2, 2004 | 09:54 PM
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that movie ruled



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