Breaking in my speakers... how?!
Originally Posted by ScionRI
How's it done? i've got a set of focal polyglass components in front and coax's in the rear, and an IDQ v2 12" sitting in back...
i got it installed on monday and now i need to know how to break these in!
any and all insight is appreciated and needed
thanks everyone
i got it installed on monday and now i need to know how to break these in!
any and all insight is appreciated and needed
thanks everyone
ear fatigue (listening before or after playing with screaming kids) :D
ambient noise floor (time of day when listening -- late night is quieter)
volume levels (do a search on Fletcher-Munson loudness contours)
change in seating position (on or off axis -- or in the path of standing waves)
state of mind (are you listening for enjoyment, or doing some critical listening)
relative humidity (non-treated paper cones could absorb moisture which would change moving mass)
ad-infinitum
Any changes in the electromechanical properties of a driver are induced from wear, not break-in. For instance, butyl rubber surrounds will return to the compliance of their rest state shortly after non-use. This affects excursion. Moving mass won't change unless you add or subtract weight from the cone. Power handling won't change unless you alter the properties of the voice coil and magnet. Of course, clipping your amp could do this...
Again, any changes in system performance are either placebo effect, or simple wear & tear. You might also do some research on psychoacoustics and HRTF (head related transfer function. hth...
Originally Posted by rjsalvi
This has been a never-ending debate within the high-end audio community. The placebo effect plays a great role in those instances which a listener detects a change. In fact, it's possible -- no probable -- for an individual to detect differences in the sound of their system due to influences such as:
ear fatigue (listening before or after playing with screaming kids) :D
ambient noise floor (time of day when listening -- late night is quieter)
volume levels (do a search on Fletcher-Munson loudness contours)
change in seating position (on or off axis -- or in the path of standing waves)
state of mind (are you listening for enjoyment, or doing some critical listening)
relative humidity (non-treated paper cones could absorb moisture which would change moving mass)
ear fatigue (listening before or after playing with screaming kids) :D
ambient noise floor (time of day when listening -- late night is quieter)
volume levels (do a search on Fletcher-Munson loudness contours)
change in seating position (on or off axis -- or in the path of standing waves)
state of mind (are you listening for enjoyment, or doing some critical listening)
relative humidity (non-treated paper cones could absorb moisture which would change moving mass)
The quantity of money spent on the equipment.
A lot of the "wisdom" taught by the high-end audio business is, in physics terms, BS. When the distortion from the desired signal is already down in the wee fractions of a percent, then any further reduction will not be perceivable by anyone, but still the "golden ears" will swear that they hear a difference. This sells a lot of expensive junk, like those $400 power cords and fancy speaker wire.
One of my friends is a sound engineer in the television business. Among his credits is that he was the sound man for Frank Sinatra when Sinatra was on tour. He also does mobile recording for live albums. He makes his living making the artists sound as good as possible, and truly has "golden ears". He can listen to a recording and pick out the sound of a guitar pick hitting the body of a guitar. He laughs at the "high end" stuff, saying that as long as you use good quality equipment and operate it within its limits, nothing is to be gained by spending the "high end" premium except hype and bragging rights.
George
Originally Posted by George
Originally Posted by rjsalvi
This has been a never-ending debate within the high-end audio community. The placebo effect plays a great role in those instances which a listener detects a change. In fact, it's possible -- no probable -- for an individual to detect differences in the sound of their system due to influences such as:
ear fatigue (listening before or after playing with screaming kids) :D
ambient noise floor (time of day when listening -- late night is quieter)
volume levels (do a search on Fletcher-Munson loudness contours)
change in seating position (on or off axis -- or in the path of standing waves)
state of mind (are you listening for enjoyment, or doing some critical listening)
relative humidity (non-treated paper cones could absorb moisture which would change moving mass)
ear fatigue (listening before or after playing with screaming kids) :D
ambient noise floor (time of day when listening -- late night is quieter)
volume levels (do a search on Fletcher-Munson loudness contours)
change in seating position (on or off axis -- or in the path of standing waves)
state of mind (are you listening for enjoyment, or doing some critical listening)
relative humidity (non-treated paper cones could absorb moisture which would change moving mass)
The quantity of money spent on the equipment.
A lot of the "wisdom" taught by the high-end audio business is, in physics terms, BS. When the distortion from the desired signal is already down in the wee fractions of a percent, then any further reduction will not be perceivable by anyone, but still the "golden ears" will swear that they hear a difference. This sells a lot of expensive junk, like those $400 power cords and fancy speaker wire.
One of my friends is a sound engineer in the television business. Among his credits is that he was the sound man for Frank Sinatra when Sinatra was on tour. He also does mobile recording for live albums. He makes his living making the artists sound as good as possible, and truly has "golden ears". He can listen to a recording and pick out the sound of a guitar pick hitting the body of a guitar. He laughs at the "high end" stuff, saying that as long as you use good quality equipment and operate it within its limits, nothing is to be gained by spending the "high end" premium except hype and bragging rights.
George
Regarding speaker break-in, that question is asked of us a majority of the time. We respond by telling them that the longer they listen to our speakers, the more they'll like them...and we tell them why: because they get used to the sound. We also let them know that there is no break-in period and that if they're not satisfied with the low end right out of the box, then they're likely not going to be satisfied later. Most consumers aren't aware that a linear response means that for most program material except rap or movie soundtracks, the bass isn't supposed to shake the paint off walls.
When it comes to loudspeakers, it's a very personal choice.
Originally Posted by bryanb124
Breaking your high end system is extremely important. There are a few steps that you have to take to see if you need to upgrade any of the weak stock electrical components:
1) First thing you have to do is replace the blinker cooling fluid in both of the new design xenon head lights that Scion installed at the factory, as the huge draw from your new system will adversely affect current flow from the alternator to the lights. You can tell if you really need to replace this with a higher cooling blinker fluid if the lights on your truck dim at all when the system is really pumping.
2) You may consider upgrading the factory Toyota capacitor on the alternator to one of Pioneers new high capacity flux capacitors. They make a 1.21 jigawatt flux capacitor to really handle the draw of the most high end systems.
3) If that doesn't work pick up a left handed screwdriver from the specialty parts counter at your local auto store to attach an exhaust sample kit (looks like a black contractor trash bag). Let your vehicle warm up and attach the kit to the tail pipe using the left handed screwdriver--Important make sure that crossthreading is complete, otherwise the sample will blow past the bag. Now turn on your system and slowly turn it up over a period of thrity seconds. Take the sample to the dealership while it is still warm. The draw from the stereo may or may not affect the idle of your vehicle as the alternator struggles to keep up with the factory capacitor. The exhaust sample will allow the dealership to determine if you need to upgrade your capacitor as discussed above. Scion offers a small upgraded one with the 6 disc stereo with the Bazooka sub as well, but that Pioneer 1.21 jigawatt flux capacitor is what Toyota is installing in all the Lexus' with the Mark and Levinson system.
4)Final step to really figuring out if your system is broken in or not is to sit in the vehicle, start it and then turn the stereo on. Make sure that the low end is all the way up (bass) and that the highs are hitting to (turn the treble all the way up). Now, turn the volume up as high as it goes. Sit inside vehicle for at least 30 minutes at this volume to determine if there are any problems as the music plays. After 30 minutes of hearing it turned all the way up you should definitely be able to tell if it is broken in or not.
Best of Luck!
B
1) First thing you have to do is replace the blinker cooling fluid in both of the new design xenon head lights that Scion installed at the factory, as the huge draw from your new system will adversely affect current flow from the alternator to the lights. You can tell if you really need to replace this with a higher cooling blinker fluid if the lights on your truck dim at all when the system is really pumping.
2) You may consider upgrading the factory Toyota capacitor on the alternator to one of Pioneers new high capacity flux capacitors. They make a 1.21 jigawatt flux capacitor to really handle the draw of the most high end systems.
3) If that doesn't work pick up a left handed screwdriver from the specialty parts counter at your local auto store to attach an exhaust sample kit (looks like a black contractor trash bag). Let your vehicle warm up and attach the kit to the tail pipe using the left handed screwdriver--Important make sure that crossthreading is complete, otherwise the sample will blow past the bag. Now turn on your system and slowly turn it up over a period of thrity seconds. Take the sample to the dealership while it is still warm. The draw from the stereo may or may not affect the idle of your vehicle as the alternator struggles to keep up with the factory capacitor. The exhaust sample will allow the dealership to determine if you need to upgrade your capacitor as discussed above. Scion offers a small upgraded one with the 6 disc stereo with the Bazooka sub as well, but that Pioneer 1.21 jigawatt flux capacitor is what Toyota is installing in all the Lexus' with the Mark and Levinson system.
4)Final step to really figuring out if your system is broken in or not is to sit in the vehicle, start it and then turn the stereo on. Make sure that the low end is all the way up (bass) and that the highs are hitting to (turn the treble all the way up). Now, turn the volume up as high as it goes. Sit inside vehicle for at least 30 minutes at this volume to determine if there are any problems as the music plays. After 30 minutes of hearing it turned all the way up you should definitely be able to tell if it is broken in or not.
Best of Luck!
B
Dont waste your life tuning a freaking sound system thats sounds good already, just install and blast.....my 2cents
Originally Posted by George
Originally Posted by rjsalvi
This has been a never-ending debate within the high-end audio community. The placebo effect plays a great role in those instances which a listener detects a change. In fact, it's possible -- no probable -- for an individual to detect differences in the sound of their system due to influences such as:
ear fatigue (listening before or after playing with screaming kids) :D
ambient noise floor (time of day when listening -- late night is quieter)
volume levels (do a search on Fletcher-Munson loudness contours)
change in seating position (on or off axis -- or in the path of standing waves)
state of mind (are you listening for enjoyment, or doing some critical listening)
relative humidity (non-treated paper cones could absorb moisture which would change moving mass)
ear fatigue (listening before or after playing with screaming kids) :D
ambient noise floor (time of day when listening -- late night is quieter)
volume levels (do a search on Fletcher-Munson loudness contours)
change in seating position (on or off axis -- or in the path of standing waves)
state of mind (are you listening for enjoyment, or doing some critical listening)
relative humidity (non-treated paper cones could absorb moisture which would change moving mass)
The quantity of money spent on the equipment.
A lot of the "wisdom" taught by the high-end audio business is, in physics terms, BS. When the distortion from the desired signal is already down in the wee fractions of a percent, then any further reduction will not be perceivable by anyone, but still the "golden ears" will swear that they hear a difference. This sells a lot of expensive junk, like those $400 power cords and fancy speaker wire.
One of my friends is a sound engineer in the television business. Among his credits is that he was the sound man for Frank Sinatra when Sinatra was on tour. He also does mobile recording for live albums. He makes his living making the artists sound as good as possible, and truly has "golden ears". He can listen to a recording and pick out the sound of a guitar pick hitting the body of a guitar. He laughs at the "high end" stuff, saying that as long as you use good quality equipment and operate it within its limits, nothing is to be gained by spending the "high end" premium except hype and bragging rights.
George
Many people will agree that when it's colder out or when they are sitting still their system seems louder then when warm or moving.
When someone is really enjoying their music at home, they are usually in the center of everything, allowing all the signal sent from the speakers to arrive at the desired location at one point. In a vehicle it's a little more difficult to achieve this effect, however many "HIGHER END" units have a feature to compensate for speaker placement called DTA, or digital time alignment. A gimmick? to some, for me it works, and allows both front passengers to ear the almost the same thing.
Granted not everyone will need a 1000 dollar radio with DTA,fiber optics, built in 4 way crossovers, on a copper chassis, a 300 dollar radio will sound just as good to 90 percent of people, maybe even better. But one must find a medium of performance vs price
"ear fatigue (listening before or after playing with screaming kids) :D
ambient noise floor (time of day when listening -- late night is quieter)
volume levels (do a search on Fletcher-Munson loudness contours)
change in seating position (on or off axis -- or in the path of standing waves)
state of mind (are you listening for enjoyment, or doing some critical listening)
relative humidity (non-treated paper cones could absorb moisture which would change moving mass)[/quote]"
Higher end speakers compensate for the above factors....
Higher end equipment also utilizes up to date technology and allows us to eventually by speakers with simliar technology for a whole lot less in the future...
400 dollars for power cords is a little steep, one shouldnt really need that much unless you are doing a serious sound system, and that's mainly the wire for power, not rcas. there are many gimmicks with rcas... all you need are a decent set, no need for gamma wires or diode isolated wires, those are just for ooohs and aaahs... as long as you don't get those nickel plated ones...
Recording live and studio recording are two totally different environments... I am pretty sure everyone here has heard the difference between a live recording/or show, and a studio recorded album by the same artist. I pick the studio recorded one ... That is why I don't like attending concerts... it is not in it's purist form.
BTW Sales people will say anything to make a sale... go talk to the installers if you want good products the place has to offer...
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