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dynamat any tips and pics

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Old Apr 12, 2005 | 05:30 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by drew05xb
How about everybody post the amount of sq ft they used sound deadening and what they were able to cover with it?
Yes, please.

I'd hate to buy too much and end up having to install like 3 layers of the stuff.
Old Apr 12, 2005 | 07:16 PM
  #22  
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I bought about 50 sq. ft. of edead v.1.se to do my front doors, i'll let you know how much i end up using.
Old Apr 12, 2005 | 11:43 PM
  #23  
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Dynamat's also useful for other things, like 'crap that part rattles now, how do I fix it?'. Solution: stuff a wad of dynamat under it. It also makes a good replacement for that gunk under the water seal plastic.

*must rip apart box and dynamat more, after purchasing more stereo @.@*
Old Jan 2, 2006 | 04:54 AM
  #24  
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How much is it to dyno the whole car and do you need to do the whole car? If I dyno it than put components later on is that a problem. ?
Old Jan 3, 2006 | 02:20 AM
  #25  
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dynamatting an entire car can get VERY expensive. but there is hope. home depot has this stuff called "water and ice shield" its meant to be an insulator for houses. it applies just like dynamat original with the same sound deadenning effects for 1/10th the price. you could even beef up your sub area/speaker panels witht he reals tuff if youw ant. but..i personally cannot afford to spend thousands of dollars to cover entire cars in dynamat.
Old Jan 3, 2006 | 02:34 AM
  #26  
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I was thinking of doing this to my xA. For some reason, I get a massive amount of road noise in my car. To the point that I always have to turn my radio way up to comfortably hear it.
Old Jan 3, 2006 | 02:35 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by powhound84
dynamatting an entire car can get VERY expensive. but there is hope. home depot has this stuff called "water and ice shield" its meant to be an insulator for houses. it applies just like dynamat original with the same sound deadenning effects for 1/10th the price. you could even beef up your sub area/speaker panels witht he reals tuff if youw ant. but..i personally cannot afford to spend thousands of dollars to cover entire cars in dynamat.
you would happen to have the UPC or exact description of the product do you
Old Jan 4, 2006 | 03:49 PM
  #28  
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What is the difference between dynamat and dynamat extreme. What if I do dynamat for the sub and mids and tweeters and for the rest of the car use the water and ice shield. ?
Old Jan 4, 2006 | 04:54 PM
  #29  
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dyanmat you have to heat it up at put it on. dynamat extreme you dont have to heat it up,you just peal back a layer of tinfoil looking stuff and rub it on.
Old Jan 4, 2006 | 05:23 PM
  #30  
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Make sure to do the doors too...
Old Jan 5, 2006 | 12:42 AM
  #31  
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I have now down double layer on the entire floor of my xB. I have also done almost all of my hatch. Next plan is the doors and firewall..then move up to the headliner. I love dynamat. I also like the 70% (or more) I get off the price of dynamat. I dont have to skimp to do it right!
Of course, most dont plan on running 3000+ of subs and speakers. I cant wait to wire that!
Old Jan 5, 2006 | 02:39 AM
  #32  
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How do you get the 70% or more off price. Sharing is caring remember. HEHE
Old Jan 5, 2006 | 04:10 AM
  #33  
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hehe, work retail at a place that sells it.
Best Buy is my friend for more than just car stuff. woot!
Old Jan 5, 2006 | 07:38 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by powhound84
dynamatting an entire car can get VERY expensive. but there is hope. home depot has this stuff called "water and ice shield" its meant to be an insulator for houses. it applies just like dynamat original with the same sound deadenning effects for 1/10th the price. you could even beef up your sub area/speaker panels witht he reals tuff if youw ant. but..i personally cannot afford to spend thousands of dollars to cover entire cars in dynamat.
ahhh, nothin like the smell of asphault on a hot summer day!*



*this comment based on what I've heard about 'peel n seal' being used in a car, not actual experiance.
Old Jan 5, 2006 | 12:40 PM
  #35  
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I'm working on a Mazda 6 right now and I have put 180 sq. ft. in so far and haven't even touched the doors yet. probablly put 20 sq. ft. per door (20 sq. ft. = 1 package, 10 sheets of 1' X 2') by the way I am using the Tsunami Silencer foil backed.
Old Jan 5, 2006 | 06:28 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by mavrichie

Make sure to do the doors too...

Uhh... what happens if you have to service the window regulator or the lock mechanism? If Dynomat is like B-Quiet Extreme, it is a pain to remove. Imagine if you try and get it fixed under warranty... you'll probably get charged for the tech having to mess around with that stuff. Same thing goes will all the people that cover up the fuel pump access panel.

Something to consider...
Old Jan 5, 2006 | 07:09 PM
  #37  
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One tip I have is that if you Dynomat anything, be prepared to Dynomat other places also. I Recently redid the stereo in my car and dynomated the trunk from the rear seats to the bumper. My brother and sister in law warned me that after you dynomat in one place others will rattle and squeak. Funny enough two monthes later I am getting rattles from the b-pillar behind the driverside. A slight rattle from the passenger side door and a few other rattles. I don't mind them much, but I could swear they weren't there before the Dynomat was put in.

Use a nice sharp pair of scissors and wear gloves if possible. You can cut yourself on the edges of Dynomat.

As far as the smell, at least for Dynomat, the car smells like it did before. The bass seems much more tight, I don't have as much of the road noise from wet pavement, and my exhaust is very quiet compared to what it used to be.

You can pull apart the rear interior of the car in less then an hour if you are a half a$$ like myself. It is a time consuming thing though so make sure you get a rental or another car together if you are going to do more then just the trunk area.
Old Jan 5, 2006 | 07:37 PM
  #38  
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Uhh... what happens if you have to service the window regulator or the lock mechanism? If Dynomat is like B-Quiet Extreme, it is a pain to remove. Imagine if you try and get it fixed under warranty... you'll probably get charged for the tech having to mess around with that stuff. Same thing goes will all the people that cover up the fuel pump access panel.

Something to consider...
The Dynamat is quite easy to remove as it is not applied with a heat gun like some other sound deadening materials.
Old Jan 5, 2006 | 11:38 PM
  #39  
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There is really no reason at all to mass load anything but your doors, trunk lid, and roof. Everything else is rigid enough that it won't vibrate, so you want to use something like carpet pad or whatever to muffle road noise. OEMs know this, that's why there's padding above your headliner and below the carpet.
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