Im in the process of doing a full interior paint job in my xB and I have noticed not too many people do this in the Scion world. I was curious if anybody had some pics of a fully painted xB interior. Thanks in advance...

 

 

I think you wanted to post this.

 

yeah i still havent figured out how to do it

 

You added one too many [img]'s Leave the last one out and your good to go.

 

^^^^yeah thats what everybody does. What Im lookin for is a FULL interior paint. I mean Im doin everything. Door panels, upper and lower dash, gauge pod, full paint of center instrument panel not just the silver outside edge, center console, A-B-C pillars, EVERYTHING...

 

you cant see it in the pics but i did the switch covers on the doors too i also did the dash speaker covers

 

if you are going to do the complete interior be careful too much of one color will kill you

we have had great luck with using SEM flexable primer theprimer is the key we even painted the visors.

1. remove parts from car
2. clean them like there is no tommorrow
3. primer and let dry
4. use a soft brush to brush over the primer to make sure it is stuck touch up any bad areas let dry
5. paint with the final color

one tip, I would not use a gloss paint on the interior if you are using a solid color, it will look cheap semi flat or semi gloss is a cleaner look. compare it to painting a model car, if you did the interior with gloss it looks like a little model car, if you painted the interior with flat it looked like a real car only small.

 

^^^^ Yeah thats closer to what Im doin but still not the extent. Im using gloss paint specifically because Im gonna get the fiberglass look for the dash and the interior. Gonna be a lot of work but thats why I bought essentially a second interior so I can work on that and not have to rip apart my car in the process...

...keep postin. We're gettin there.

 

Joe, I suggest again (have plugged it elsewhere) the marvelous KRYLON FUSION line of spray bomb paints.

-Fusion is purpose-designed to stick to plastics. Even the smooth glossy plastic of lawn chairs. No sanding needed. Almost no prep is required. The bond is purely chemical.

-The line of colors is pretty decent . There is one special number, which is an overlay called "mystic prism" I think. I suppose it will add glinty sparkles in a very subtle way (might not be 'too much' esp. considering your work is interior.
Have not seen mystic prism yet, though.



The Fusion paint is fast to dry to touch and it wet sands very well. You can recoat and build film thickness if you need to fill scratches. Which is nice, because there's no primer color to show if anything ever gets scraped to the base.

The paint is flexible and as tough as any non-catalyzed pro paint.

It is not brittle. It does not chip but it can be scuffed of course.

The gloss is excellent if you follow these tips:

-dry weather
-hot weather is OK
-super shake the can
-mist coat first then build coats and keep the can relatively close to the work. If the can is held too far away it will make a rougher surface.

In our very hot weather I can get an excellent gloss and almost no 'peel by finishing off with a wet coat, with the spray tip only a few inches from the works.... GOTTA keep it moving along though to avoid a sag if you do dat.

---spray can technique can only be learned by practice---
I add these tips in only to aid newbies reading this thread. You, Joe, prolly know all this and more already.

Fusion is so easy to use I do not like to think about getting into pro-grade plastic primers and $$ paints. Krylon Fusion is available at most hardware stores. It's under seven bucks for a can.


-Maybe this is interesting enough to look into. I'll go fetch the Krylon color info to paste into this thread. Wait...

wow.. good pricing, too. I need a case of yellow!
http://www.utilitysafeguard.com/s.nl...tegory.4119/.f

look at the graphite shimmer, etc.

One last word: All the Fusion I've used to date was yellow, bought at various times from the local Ace store. A few of the cans were defective, would not spray wet. The solevent ratio was wrong. These were all of one batch number. SO--- if you happen to have that happen to you, be confident that it's a product QC problem and not your fault for not shaking.

But DO shake shake shake. I like to -heat my can in hot water (about 120F and no hotter) to further improve propellant pressure, obtaining a faster, even better spray and lay.

-----------------

mama says I give to much data. she be wrong! we never get enough data to save ourselves from all the pitfalls of new adventures.

 

SciFly, yeah I have been told about the wonders of Fusion. I havent ever used it but I have seen the results on other peoples stuff. Looks good. Im goin all out and trying to get that fiberglass look which will require a much harder and glossier paint. I like to use a Krylon sandable primer and then for color use Duplicolor's Engine Enamel. Its a ceramic spray enamel that hardens extremely well and has an awesome show gloss finish. I even wax it sometimes for a ridiculous shine. Great stuff and super easy to spray. I reccommend it highly. Takes a little longer with all the sanding and priming and sanding and more priming but the results are great and people will ask if my dash is all fiberglass. I did the same process in my old Subaru and it was amazing. Great advice though for people who arent looking for such an extreme finish...

 

yeah, I see your aim.

Engine enamel is acutally -acrylic enamel-. This is a mature paint technology that came out in the early '60's and was univeral for good OEM paint jobs until the common advent of two stage catalyzed urethanes about twenty years ago.

You -could- "prime" with a Fusion paint near your desired color. Then topcoat with the engine enamel (acrylic bomb or pro spray) of your choice.

As you stated, the acrylic enamel cures very hard and tough and has little to no orange peel when properly thinned and sprayed/laid on.

I -think- you could make some simple tests and prolly find that Fusion is your cheapest, most certain way of making a firm base for acrylic top coats.

I have not tried rubbing my fusioned wheel covers to a higher gloss. I doubt the paint would rub up as brilliant as you need.

If you can avoid the clear-top coat thing that might be a plus for avoiding headaches if a part gets a deep scratch from key or ring etc. If it's not cleared, you could fill in the scratch and color sand after the spot repair is fully aged/shrunk in. Can't do that so well if the item is cleared.

 

The best paint hands down i have used is Lowes plastic enamel!! I have used fusion and my brother in law has used engine enamel but it doesn't produce that really shiney gloss Lowes plastic enamel does!!! I didn't have to use any primers or clear coats! Its really smooth like glass and to make it really shine just throw some detail spray on it....

 

^^^^Nice spray job. Looks great. Well thats a pic of the center control piece I was looking for. Thats how I want to spray mine almost exactly but blue not white. Although Im gonna do the lower piece too

 

I can vouch for Krylon's Fusion line. It's good stuff, just be sure to thouroghly clean whatever your spraying first. I did some video game controllers once and the paint pealed off where the hands touch from the oils.

 

PeruzziScion any updates on your quest for Interior Paint? I would love to paint the whole dash as well this sounded like it was getting there , but then the thread stopped?
Thanks

 

rice

 

hey i used that Krylon Fusion paint for my AC ***** but about 2 weeks later the paint started to come off, like I can use my nail to take it right off? did we do something wrong? I was thinking about sanding everything I want painted inside, use real automotive paint or the fusion paint again, put a few coats, then shoot it with some clear coat and thats it. Will that hold up? Im not a painter so I have no clue as to how to exactly paint my interior parts.

 

I got as far as the dash , used sikkens complete plastic line did 30 minute bake at 170 to get the mold release to come out of the plastic and the texas summer sun still bubbled it a little. Its all out getting the system done so im going to redo it but this time sand the texture out,

chris

[img][/img]

 

I used the products pictured for my *****, switches, and some other stuff. It worked like a dream. The paint is on there and not coming off. I got that smooth (very close to) no-orange peel look by using a method similar to what SciFly described. See the second picture for that shine.