Has anyone changed the tweeter at the top of the dash???????
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Scion Dynasty
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From: Tampa, FL
Has anyone changed the tweeter at the top of the dash???????
I am planning to change the tweeter and i was wondering what size is it? Whats a good speaker to put there? What kind of speaker has anyone put there? Any ideas on what can fits there bc the stock ones sound horrible and i need to change them..
i was thinking of getting the Pioneer TS-G1041R put im not sure if that is the right speaker
i was thinking of getting the Pioneer TS-G1041R put im not sure if that is the right speaker
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TOCC
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i put a alpine 4" 2 way speaker in there. it slides in and dosnt need to be bolted or screwed in, the way it slides in, the friction holds it good, im worried it wont come out now. after breaking off a tab off the cover, it fit over the speaker, makes a worlds differ.
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A lot of folks have changed out the OEM tweeter for other units - both high end tweeters and multi-element 4 inchers.
I'm running the Pioneer TS-G1040R in my PW xB.
http://www.clubxb.com/forums/f23/444...hat-size-make/
I suggest reading that thread 'cause there is some discussion of the need to balance the level with the existing speakers or the sound just won't be 'right.'
I'm running the Pioneer TS-G1040R in my PW xB.
http://www.clubxb.com/forums/f23/444...hat-size-make/
I suggest reading that thread 'cause there is some discussion of the need to balance the level with the existing speakers or the sound just won't be 'right.'
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They sound good to my ear and are much fuller and clearer than the OEMs.
Mechanically the install was super simple: Pull the OEM's, unsolder the connector wires, glue a 6.8 ohm, 10 watt resister to the back of the new speaker, connect one end of the resistor to a speaker lug, and connect the connector wires to the remaining speaker lug and the other end of the resistor. Plug the connector in, put the screws in to mount the speaker and snap the grill in. Do the same on the other side. Done.
That thread linked to above has some detail, and there are a couple other topics here a ScionLife with even more. A search should find 'em.
Tom
Mechanically the install was super simple: Pull the OEM's, unsolder the connector wires, glue a 6.8 ohm, 10 watt resister to the back of the new speaker, connect one end of the resistor to a speaker lug, and connect the connector wires to the remaining speaker lug and the other end of the resistor. Plug the connector in, put the screws in to mount the speaker and snap the grill in. Do the same on the other side. Done.
That thread linked to above has some detail, and there are a couple other topics here a ScionLife with even more. A search should find 'em.
Tom
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The 1040s are just straight 4 ohm speakers and need the series resistor to reduce their volume so they match the rest of the speakers. If it's not added, all you will hear are the 1040s because they are right in your face.
Tom
Tom
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TOCC
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ahhh, i c, i had to retun my system when i added these in, i wasnt use to haveing speakers in the dash, i took them out along time ago, added these in and was like WOW, heard things in songs i never heard before!!! upgrading from the stock speakers has been one of the better upgrades!!!
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i changed all my speakers out to kenwood seperates...running 6 1/2 inch in the door and the rear...put the tweeters in the middle of the mids, put a 4 inch mid up in the stock tweeter location, with some slit mods to the speaker and put the other tweeters with slight mods in the a/c/heater center vents.....but then gain i have changed the headunit and added amps and rewired the rest of the stereo system...and running 2 10inch woofers in a sealed box in the trunk area...
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To answer some of the questions coming up, here's a copy of one of my posts in the thread linked above:
Er, one thing I forgot to mention, and really need to, is that the replacement Pioneers I used are 4 ohm speakers, and the originals are 13 ohms. What this means, in a practical sense, is that plugging these 4's into the connectors the old ones plugged into puts them in parallel with the front door speakers.
With the change of impedance, there is a shift of the percentage of power delivered to the dash and front-door speakers. No longer is the sound balanced properly - the speakers on the dash will be too loud, and the ones in the door will have the power to them reduced. (Don't worry about how this works, just trust me that it does, and that it can even be proved from the schematic.)
So, what does one do?
One needs to put about 7 to 9 ohms of resistance in series with the dash speakers to re-balance the system.
I prefer the sound to have a little more 'presence' and for the dash speakers to be a little more obvious, so I picked up a couple of 10 watt, 6.8 ohm resistors at Fry's Electronics. (If you want the dash speakers to be a little more muted than that, use 8.2 ohm resistors - that will make their level match the OEMs pretty close.)
I glued my 6.8s to the back of the speaker magnets and hooked 'em up between the speaker's hot lead and the red lead from the speaker connector I ripped off the OEM speakers.
If you don't do SOMETHING to reduce the level of the dash speakers, they will be much too loud and the door speakers will be almost unheard.
Hope this helps!!!
Tomas
P.S. I'd totally forgotten about the resistors I added until I just took one of the dash speakers out to find out what was 'buzzing' behind it - one of the resistors had come adrift - I hadn't glued it down quite well enough and it was vibrating against some underdash plastic. Trust me, it WILL NOT come lose again. :D
T
With the change of impedance, there is a shift of the percentage of power delivered to the dash and front-door speakers. No longer is the sound balanced properly - the speakers on the dash will be too loud, and the ones in the door will have the power to them reduced. (Don't worry about how this works, just trust me that it does, and that it can even be proved from the schematic.)
So, what does one do?
One needs to put about 7 to 9 ohms of resistance in series with the dash speakers to re-balance the system.
I prefer the sound to have a little more 'presence' and for the dash speakers to be a little more obvious, so I picked up a couple of 10 watt, 6.8 ohm resistors at Fry's Electronics. (If you want the dash speakers to be a little more muted than that, use 8.2 ohm resistors - that will make their level match the OEMs pretty close.)
I glued my 6.8s to the back of the speaker magnets and hooked 'em up between the speaker's hot lead and the red lead from the speaker connector I ripped off the OEM speakers.
If you don't do SOMETHING to reduce the level of the dash speakers, they will be much too loud and the door speakers will be almost unheard.
Hope this helps!!!
Tomas
P.S. I'd totally forgotten about the resistors I added until I just took one of the dash speakers out to find out what was 'buzzing' behind it - one of the resistors had come adrift - I hadn't glued it down quite well enough and it was vibrating against some underdash plastic. Trust me, it WILL NOT come lose again. :D
T
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Scion Dynasty
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From: Tampa, FL
hey tomas do you have any amps hooked up to the speakers or aftermarket head unit??? i have a pioneer avic-z1 and alpines all around and a 1 12 kicker comp with a mono block n four channel amp to hook up to the speakers, with an equalizor, so do you think if i put those 4" pioneers in and forget about the resistor the dash speakers would still off set the others in the car
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Everything I've said here applys to stock WIRING in the box.
The way the box is wired, the dashtop and front door speakers are in parallel, and the dashtop needs to be about 3-4 times the impedance of the front door speakers, or they will be too loud and stand out from the rest of the system.
IF one uses different wiring, so that those speakers are no longer just wired in parallel with each other, and of the level of each pair of speakers can be independently controlled, then the balancing can be done that way.
One way or the other, though, whether one had a stock head unit or a gazillion amps, the dashtops need only 1/4 to 1/3 the power of the front door speakers, assuming equivalent speaker efficiencies.
Beyond this point (just straight swapping the dashtop's for a better sounding unit) things can get very hairy, so one needs to know what they are doing and why.
Here's the schematic showing where I've dropped in the resistors:
The way the box is wired, the dashtop and front door speakers are in parallel, and the dashtop needs to be about 3-4 times the impedance of the front door speakers, or they will be too loud and stand out from the rest of the system.
IF one uses different wiring, so that those speakers are no longer just wired in parallel with each other, and of the level of each pair of speakers can be independently controlled, then the balancing can be done that way.
One way or the other, though, whether one had a stock head unit or a gazillion amps, the dashtops need only 1/4 to 1/3 the power of the front door speakers, assuming equivalent speaker efficiencies.
Beyond this point (just straight swapping the dashtop's for a better sounding unit) things can get very hairy, so one needs to know what they are doing and why.
Here's the schematic showing where I've dropped in the resistors:
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if u run a amp off the stock head unit, u need to eliminate the stock connection from the head unit to the speakers...need to run direct from the amp to the speakers..but carefully make sure the stock can handle the power or u will blow them out...
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I replaced mine with a pair of Boston Acoustics NEO-2R tweeters. I used plumbing strap (radio backstraps) to mount them and it allows me to vary the angle. I am running an active setup, meaning that I can change the crossover point, time allignment, and level on the fly from my headunit.