Has anyone changed the tweeter at the top of the dash???????
previous posts about replacing these (search for the Pioneer speaker #) suggested putting a capacitor in line as a high-pass filter, to block the bass going to these smallish speaker. I'm curious why you didn't go this route, Tomas, but instead went for a broadband high impedance (resistor).
When properly balanced with the rest of the system, the dashtop speakers only get 1/4 to 1/3 the power of the door speakers, and with the stock head unit and no external amps, the amount of power being fed to the dashtops appears to be within their abilities.
For my tastes and for the maximum levels I use on my system allowing the full range of audio to reach the dashtops is not a problem. Even running full volume will only pump about 10 watts peak into the dashtops, maybe 5 watts RMS.
Now for you folks running other head units, amps, or wanting ear-bleeding sound levels, you have to figure out your own tradeoffs.
Tom
For my tastes and for the maximum levels I use on my system allowing the full range of audio to reach the dashtops is not a problem. Even running full volume will only pump about 10 watts peak into the dashtops, maybe 5 watts RMS.
Now for you folks running other head units, amps, or wanting ear-bleeding sound levels, you have to figure out your own tradeoffs.
Tom
i've been trying to figure out what kind of system will work for me. I was thinking power the dash speakers off the deck and the front door and rear off the amp. do you guys think that would be fine in terms of sound balancing? never had a ride that had stock dash speakers. lol
well i was planning on the doing the same thing, i got pioneer 4in in the dash and they pretty much sound good as they are with the head unit i have. and since the dash ones are so loud im going to hook up the front n rear speakers to a four channel amp i have and I'll see if they balance out well enough for my taste. im doing it on Tuesday so we will see
i have my system the same way..i have the stock tweeters going to my head unit..i have my door and rear mids and highs of a 4 channel amp..i got the 2 10' subs off a mono amp..it sounds good but the stock tweeters at a higher volume setting get distorted....
getting ready to switch out the stock tweeters and run new tweeters with there own crossover either direct off the head unit again or of the 4 channel amp !!
getting ready to switch out the stock tweeters and run new tweeters with there own crossover either direct off the head unit again or of the 4 channel amp !!
hey guys i did that set up like i said i was goin to do and its a no go lol, the bottoms became louder and they were louder than the dash tweeters and i couldnt even hear them ne more, and then i hooked the dash tweeters to the front doors speakers on one channel and they sound awesome!!!!
I hate the idea of unsoldering the capacitor off the OEM and resoldering them on the new one. Anyone know if the Alpines have them already on there...or maybe some Infintys???
or heck even pics of the backsides of the speakers..you know...for REference?!
or heck even pics of the backsides of the speakers..you know...for REference?!
I wouldn't use the same capacitors on the new speakers - the cutoff frequency would be WAAAAY too high.
The caps are sized to just allow the higher freq's through to 13 ohm speakers (the replacements speakers are usually 4 ohm).
The replacements are also much more a full range speaker, and the caps should be much larger to allow for the midrange and some of the low end to get through to the dash speakers.
Keep in mind, too, that if used with the OEM headunits or something of similar power, and wired in parallel with the front door speakers (stock wiring), somewhere around a 7 ohm resistor should be in series with each dash speaker to balalce sound levels. If that is done properly, the dash speakers will be getting less than ten watts, and shouldn't really need any frequency shaping to protect them.
Tom
The caps are sized to just allow the higher freq's through to 13 ohm speakers (the replacements speakers are usually 4 ohm).
The replacements are also much more a full range speaker, and the caps should be much larger to allow for the midrange and some of the low end to get through to the dash speakers.
Keep in mind, too, that if used with the OEM headunits or something of similar power, and wired in parallel with the front door speakers (stock wiring), somewhere around a 7 ohm resistor should be in series with each dash speaker to balalce sound levels. If that is done properly, the dash speakers will be getting less than ten watts, and shouldn't really need any frequency shaping to protect them.
Tom
You know Tom...some of the sh*t you know scares me....but in a good way....
Thanks for the info. I'll be picking up the new Alpines in the a.m.... and a Visonik 10" sub bandpass with amp for $120.00 (off the subject) that'll be fun to install.....OYE!!
Thanks for the info. I'll be picking up the new Alpines in the a.m.... and a Visonik 10" sub bandpass with amp for $120.00 (off the subject) that'll be fun to install.....OYE!!
I installed a 4" Polk db, in a foam baffle. I would suggest relacing the dash speakers and door speakers at the same time. I would buy a 6 1/2" midrange for the door, also using foam baffles. I use simple 6dB hi/low xovers (400Hz), between the door speakers and dash speakers. Upon removing the dash speakers, I realized I had room for my xovers inside the dash. I used the factory speaker wire that went to the dash speaker, as the input to my xover. From there I ran my own wire to the speakers, sans the factory resistor. When when/if it comes time to install an aftermarket head unit and/or amplifier, you only need to run new speaker wire up to the xovers in the dash. The rest is already done.
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