Need some help with my sub
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From: Milford, MA
Hey guys, I need a hand here. I have an old (how old? well, i'm the third person to own it and it's pretty beat up, I would say at least 6 years) Bazooka t102 Passive subwoofer. It's not DVC, it only has +/- terminals in the back, not the +/+/-/- a dvc would have. I need to know the power specs on it, because I want to move my kicker zr120 from powering the sub to powering the front stock speakers.
Anyone know anything about the power handling on this sub? peak/rms/ohms, anything? The sticker on it is messed up beyond recognition, anyone who has seen it at the shows can testify to that.
I've been googling it for a while and have come up with nothing about the old svc style one.
Thanks!
Anyone know anything about the power handling on this sub? peak/rms/ohms, anything? The sticker on it is messed up beyond recognition, anyone who has seen it at the shows can testify to that.
I've been googling it for a while and have come up with nothing about the old svc style one.
Thanks!
From http://www.bazooka.com/product_feature.asp?id=262&pg=2 :
Their website is confusing, first it says it's DVC (in bold) then it says it's not (underlined). I'd say it's a single 8ohm 400watt sub.
Here to answer that question is the BT1028DVC. Descended directly from the original Bass Tubes Enclosure, the BT1028DVC is the biggest, baddest Bass Tube built by Bazooka. With a 10-inch, Dual Voice Coil high power handling woofer, it's got the power to please all but the hungriest bass freaks, while still leaving room in the trunk for plenty of storage space.
The BT1028DVC is the single voice coil, 8 ohm version.
This 400 watt monster is also super efficient, thanks to the Bass Tubes Enclosure. Which means you don't have to break the bank (or the car's electrical system) buying a 1000 watt amplifier, (and HUGE power wiring!) Recommended power for the BT1024DVC is any amplifier 100 watts and up.
The BT1028DVC is the single voice coil, 8 ohm version.
This 400 watt monster is also super efficient, thanks to the Bass Tubes Enclosure. Which means you don't have to break the bank (or the car's electrical system) buying a 1000 watt amplifier, (and HUGE power wiring!) Recommended power for the BT1024DVC is any amplifier 100 watts and up.
Thread Starter
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From: Milford, MA
Another related question: If/When I move my zr120 up front I am going to have this amp in the back:
Avionixx 800.2 AXT Specs:
200x2 @ 4ohm
400x2 @ 2ohm
800x1 @ 4ohm bridged
If I try to run the sub off one channel of the 200x2, can i run any other stock speakers off the other channel, i.e. run the back speakers parallel/series off the one channel (lose l/r balance but maintan f/b fade) or is that not possible/wise?
thanks again
Avionixx 800.2 AXT Specs:
200x2 @ 4ohm
400x2 @ 2ohm
800x1 @ 4ohm bridged
If I try to run the sub off one channel of the 200x2, can i run any other stock speakers off the other channel, i.e. run the back speakers parallel/series off the one channel (lose l/r balance but maintan f/b fade) or is that not possible/wise?
thanks again
well he's planning on amping the front anyways, so I guess as long as your kicker amp can keep up there shouldn't be a problem setting it up. However, I don't think that would be the best use of power, or the safest thing for your stocks 'cause I don't think they could take that much power.
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From: Milford, MA
so basically take the 800.2, run it unbridged to my sub, then move the kicker to the front and leave the rear soundstage at stock power.... maybe i'll just snag a small mono for the sub, because i don't wanna waste all that power...
frankly i don't think they can take the power from your kicker either, I'm just trying to help you out with your plans. There is a reason those stock speakers are unamped running straight from the HU, they're getting the amount of power they need and should be seeing.
I think a better alternative, if you really want some low end, would be to use the amp you have on the sub you have. However, if you'd really like to amp your stock speakers, then I suggest getting an amp with the power range required for your sub(honestly, you can see I'm not trying to screw you over as you showed interest in MY amp and I'm telling you it probably wouldn't be the safest bet).
Another alternative, upgrade the sub. With as much effort as you're obviously willing to put in to this, I don't think you're going to be satisified with your current plans or equipment. Get a nice sub, run it with that kicker. If you really don't want to change out your stock HU, then just upgrade your speakers, it makes a world of difference.
For that amp, I'd recommend the e12kx I'm selling. That amp will drive it well and I can assure you, not only will the e12kx sound better, but it will look better, and if space is an issue it was designed for small enclosures. And if you'd like to upgrade your fronts, hit me up, I've got a pair of 6.5's. Total cost would be less than the 800.2 AND it would sound better.
I think a better alternative, if you really want some low end, would be to use the amp you have on the sub you have. However, if you'd really like to amp your stock speakers, then I suggest getting an amp with the power range required for your sub(honestly, you can see I'm not trying to screw you over as you showed interest in MY amp and I'm telling you it probably wouldn't be the safest bet).
Another alternative, upgrade the sub. With as much effort as you're obviously willing to put in to this, I don't think you're going to be satisified with your current plans or equipment. Get a nice sub, run it with that kicker. If you really don't want to change out your stock HU, then just upgrade your speakers, it makes a world of difference.
For that amp, I'd recommend the e12kx I'm selling. That amp will drive it well and I can assure you, not only will the e12kx sound better, but it will look better, and if space is an issue it was designed for small enclosures. And if you'd like to upgrade your fronts, hit me up, I've got a pair of 6.5's. Total cost would be less than the 800.2 AND it would sound better.



