PAC controllers
Howdy
I finally got a Clarion DXZ785USB and the PAC SWI-JACK to hook to the OEM steering wheel controls in my 2006 xB. The instructions look a little bit unclear.
Just what am I supposed to do? Shove the included resistor into the factory harness molex connector, then solder a wire to the end that's sticking out? That doesn't seem very clean or safe. I suppose I could mount the resistor on a breadboard inside a tiny project box, but that will make the whole harness job even bulkier.
I'm supposed to split the white wire from the PAC unit, and run half of it to one pin in the Toyota harness, and run another lead to said resistor and to another pin? How am I supposed to make this look clean, neat, and safe? If you've done an installation of one of these before, how did you do it??
Thx
I finally got a Clarion DXZ785USB and the PAC SWI-JACK to hook to the OEM steering wheel controls in my 2006 xB. The instructions look a little bit unclear.
Just what am I supposed to do? Shove the included resistor into the factory harness molex connector, then solder a wire to the end that's sticking out? That doesn't seem very clean or safe. I suppose I could mount the resistor on a breadboard inside a tiny project box, but that will make the whole harness job even bulkier.
I'm supposed to split the white wire from the PAC unit, and run half of it to one pin in the Toyota harness, and run another lead to said resistor and to another pin? How am I supposed to make this look clean, neat, and safe? If you've done an installation of one of these before, how did you do it??
Thx
I don't have a clarion, but I did install one of these SWI-JACK when I installed my Alpine, I stripped a section of the insulation about 4" up from the wire end, wrapped the resistor around the wire and added a small section of wire to the other end of the resistor, soldered and heatshink, just make sure you mark the end of the wire that has the resistor (helps when wiring to the harness). I bought a toyota wire harness kit, so I was able to take my stereo wire harness and wire in the swi-jack and TR-7 video switch all in the house and clean it all up into a complete harness that only needed to be wired up for the three wires to the steering wheel controls and the reverse wire for the backup camera and chassis ground, the rest just plugged into the back of the stereo and the factory harness. I didn't have the other connector for the steering wheel plug, so I stripped back the insulation on the wire and soldered it and taped, rather than trying to secure the wires to the pin locations. I don't like the idea of sticking a resistor end or wire into a connector without it locking in. Everyone "warned" me about installing these SWI- JACK but on the Alpine it was only three wires, white, white with resistor and ground. Programming of the switch was pretty easy just follow the correct order and make sure you push the program button after the steering wheel button, or you will have to do it over again
All in all....besides the little programing error it was a pretty easy install and if you read all the info before you start everything should work out good.
Good luck and I hope this helps.
All in all....besides the little programing error it was a pretty easy install and if you read all the info before you start everything should work out good.
Good luck and I hope this helps.
Here's what I just emailed to PAC, verbatim:
Good morning,
As per the topic, I have a 2006 Scion xB with steering wheel controls, a Clarion DXZ785USB, and your SWI-JACK control unit. I also have a Scosche intermediate harness to go between the Clarion and the factory wiring - it came free when I ordered the deck. I don't have a lot of time to throw at the stereo project I'm working on, so I want to do things right the first time.
To that note, I'm having some confusing regarding the wiring of the SWI-JACK into the factory wiring and the Clarion, and I have a number of questions. I appreciate your help.
1. Regarding the 20-pin Toyota plug in the dash, your tutorial states: "The connector is viewed from the pin side not wire side." I assume this means that I'm looking into the "business end" of the plug - i.e. with the pins facing me?
2. "Connect pin 6 wire to ground." Does this mean I need to use a tap splice and run a second wire to a common ground point? What does the wire already connected to pin 6 lead to?
3. "Connect pin 7 to the INTERFACE's White wire. Connect one end of a 150 ohm resistor to pin 8, then connect the other end of the resistor to the INTERFACE's white wire. So basically you will have two wires, one with a resistor in series, connected to the INTERFACE's White wire."
This is the part that's bothering me the most. I see that I need to take the white lead off the SWI-JACK and essentially split it in two - one lead having the resistor, one a direct connection. What's the safest and cleanest way to do this? Should I use a breadboard and a project box to create a Y-junction, and run leads from that to the respective pins?
What are the respective wires coming from pins 7 and 8 already connected to? Am I supposed to cut the harness within the dash and interrupt the circuit, or am I supposed to use more tap splices?
4. "Black wire: Connect the SWI-JACK 's black wire to chassis ground. This is usually a black wire on the aftermarket wire kit.
Red wire: Connect the SWI-JACK 's red wire to a switched +12volt wire. This is usually a red wire on the aftermarket wire kit."
The red wire is fairly straightforward. Do you recommend I solder it into the joint I'm doing between the Clarion harness and the Scosche intermediate harness, or directly into the back of the factory plug referenced above? Again, with the black wire - should I be bypassing harnesses and going to a single-point common ground on the dashboard frame?
I'm confident on being able to solder and heatshrink the Clarion harness to the Scosche harness, zip-tie it all, and hook it up and mount the Clarion. As you can see above, I'm not so confident on my ability to hook up the SWI-JACK.
I want the harness to be clean, neat, and reliable. I'm trying to adhere to IASCA/USAC standards - not that there are any competitions around here, but because it's a good idea.
If I have to, I'll have this professionally done. Let me know what to do. I hope you can help.
Thanks,
[my name]
Good morning,
As per the topic, I have a 2006 Scion xB with steering wheel controls, a Clarion DXZ785USB, and your SWI-JACK control unit. I also have a Scosche intermediate harness to go between the Clarion and the factory wiring - it came free when I ordered the deck. I don't have a lot of time to throw at the stereo project I'm working on, so I want to do things right the first time.
To that note, I'm having some confusing regarding the wiring of the SWI-JACK into the factory wiring and the Clarion, and I have a number of questions. I appreciate your help.
1. Regarding the 20-pin Toyota plug in the dash, your tutorial states: "The connector is viewed from the pin side not wire side." I assume this means that I'm looking into the "business end" of the plug - i.e. with the pins facing me?
2. "Connect pin 6 wire to ground." Does this mean I need to use a tap splice and run a second wire to a common ground point? What does the wire already connected to pin 6 lead to?
3. "Connect pin 7 to the INTERFACE's White wire. Connect one end of a 150 ohm resistor to pin 8, then connect the other end of the resistor to the INTERFACE's white wire. So basically you will have two wires, one with a resistor in series, connected to the INTERFACE's White wire."
This is the part that's bothering me the most. I see that I need to take the white lead off the SWI-JACK and essentially split it in two - one lead having the resistor, one a direct connection. What's the safest and cleanest way to do this? Should I use a breadboard and a project box to create a Y-junction, and run leads from that to the respective pins?
What are the respective wires coming from pins 7 and 8 already connected to? Am I supposed to cut the harness within the dash and interrupt the circuit, or am I supposed to use more tap splices?
4. "Black wire: Connect the SWI-JACK 's black wire to chassis ground. This is usually a black wire on the aftermarket wire kit.
Red wire: Connect the SWI-JACK 's red wire to a switched +12volt wire. This is usually a red wire on the aftermarket wire kit."
The red wire is fairly straightforward. Do you recommend I solder it into the joint I'm doing between the Clarion harness and the Scosche intermediate harness, or directly into the back of the factory plug referenced above? Again, with the black wire - should I be bypassing harnesses and going to a single-point common ground on the dashboard frame?
I'm confident on being able to solder and heatshrink the Clarion harness to the Scosche harness, zip-tie it all, and hook it up and mount the Clarion. As you can see above, I'm not so confident on my ability to hook up the SWI-JACK.
I want the harness to be clean, neat, and reliable. I'm trying to adhere to IASCA/USAC standards - not that there are any competitions around here, but because it's a good idea.
If I have to, I'll have this professionally done. Let me know what to do. I hope you can help.
Thanks,
[my name]
These can be confusing to install. The chart is made for every vehicle but once you narrow it down its not as bad. Best thing to do is take the chart and a piece of paper and write your car info on another piece of paper so you wont be as confused looking at such a mess of directions.
The scions are fairly simple from what I remember its a 5 wire setup.
The programming can be a little confusing as well need to practice it a few times before you actually go threw with it or you will just get frustrated
The scions are fairly simple from what I remember its a 5 wire setup.
The programming can be a little confusing as well need to practice it a few times before you actually go threw with it or you will just get frustrated
1. Regarding the 20-pin Toyota plug in the dash, your tutorial states: "The connector is viewed from the pin side not wire side." I assume this means that I'm looking into the "business end" of the plug - i.e. with the pins facing me?
If you look at the directions it has a chart and picture of the actual plug and how they are numbered. Also the plugs have numbers usually on each end.
2. "Connect pin 6 wire to ground." Does this mean I need to use a tap splice and run a second wire to a common ground point? What does the wire already connected to pin 6 lead to?
Ground this with the ground wire from the pac piece black wire and ground both to radio ground or metal
3. "Connect pin 7 to the INTERFACE's White wire. Connect one end of a 150 ohm resistor to pin 8, then connect the other end of the resistor to the INTERFACE's white wire. So basically you will have two wires, one with a resistor in series, connected to the INTERFACE's White wire."
Resistor = 000
Pin 8 wire --------000--------white wire
Pin 7 wire --------------------white wire
Obviously car side and not plug side.
This is the part that's bothering me the most. I see that I need to take the white lead off the SWI-JACK and essentially split it in two - one lead having the resistor, one a direct connection. What's the safest and cleanest way to do this? Should I use a breadboard and a project box to create a Y-junction, and run leads from that to the respective pins?
Butt connector on end of white wire and resistor and pin 8 wire coming out of the other end. Or solder is always the best way.
What are the respective wires coming from pins 7 and 8 already connected to? Am I supposed to cut the harness within the dash and interrupt the circuit, or am I supposed to use more tap splices?
Those wires go to your steering wheel buttons..... the other side is the plug that went to your radio. Your basically taking the plug part out of the car and the pac piece is now where the plug went.
4. "Black wire: Connect the SWI-JACK 's black wire to chassis ground. This is usually a black wire on the aftermarket wire kit.
Red wire: Connect the SWI-JACK 's red wire to a switched +12volt wire. This is usually a red wire on the aftermarket wire kit."
Yes and Yes
The red wire is fairly straightforward. Do you recommend I solder it into the joint I'm doing between the Clarion harness and the Scosche intermediate harness, or directly into the back of the factory plug referenced above? Again, with the black wire - should I be bypassing harnesses and going to a single-point common ground on the dashboard frame?
Harness is fine
I'm confident on being able to solder and heatshrink the Clarion harness to the Scosche harness, zip-tie it all, and hook it up and mount the Clarion. As you can see above, I'm not so confident on my ability to hook up the SWI-JACK.
I want the harness to be clean, neat, and reliable. I'm trying to adhere to IASCA/USAC standards - not that there are any competitions around here, but because it's a good idea.
If I have to, I'll have this professionally done. Let me know what to do. I hope you can help.
Thanks,
[my name][/quote]
If you look at the directions it has a chart and picture of the actual plug and how they are numbered. Also the plugs have numbers usually on each end.
2. "Connect pin 6 wire to ground." Does this mean I need to use a tap splice and run a second wire to a common ground point? What does the wire already connected to pin 6 lead to?
Ground this with the ground wire from the pac piece black wire and ground both to radio ground or metal
3. "Connect pin 7 to the INTERFACE's White wire. Connect one end of a 150 ohm resistor to pin 8, then connect the other end of the resistor to the INTERFACE's white wire. So basically you will have two wires, one with a resistor in series, connected to the INTERFACE's White wire."
Resistor = 000
Pin 8 wire --------000--------white wire
Pin 7 wire --------------------white wire
Obviously car side and not plug side.
This is the part that's bothering me the most. I see that I need to take the white lead off the SWI-JACK and essentially split it in two - one lead having the resistor, one a direct connection. What's the safest and cleanest way to do this? Should I use a breadboard and a project box to create a Y-junction, and run leads from that to the respective pins?
Butt connector on end of white wire and resistor and pin 8 wire coming out of the other end. Or solder is always the best way.
What are the respective wires coming from pins 7 and 8 already connected to? Am I supposed to cut the harness within the dash and interrupt the circuit, or am I supposed to use more tap splices?
Those wires go to your steering wheel buttons..... the other side is the plug that went to your radio. Your basically taking the plug part out of the car and the pac piece is now where the plug went.
4. "Black wire: Connect the SWI-JACK 's black wire to chassis ground. This is usually a black wire on the aftermarket wire kit.
Red wire: Connect the SWI-JACK 's red wire to a switched +12volt wire. This is usually a red wire on the aftermarket wire kit."
Yes and Yes
The red wire is fairly straightforward. Do you recommend I solder it into the joint I'm doing between the Clarion harness and the Scosche intermediate harness, or directly into the back of the factory plug referenced above? Again, with the black wire - should I be bypassing harnesses and going to a single-point common ground on the dashboard frame?
Harness is fine
I'm confident on being able to solder and heatshrink the Clarion harness to the Scosche harness, zip-tie it all, and hook it up and mount the Clarion. As you can see above, I'm not so confident on my ability to hook up the SWI-JACK.
I want the harness to be clean, neat, and reliable. I'm trying to adhere to IASCA/USAC standards - not that there are any competitions around here, but because it's a good idea.
If I have to, I'll have this professionally done. Let me know what to do. I hope you can help.
Thanks,
[my name][/quote]
I keep forgetting that I'm hooking the PAC unit to the wiring harness in the dash, *which is no longer connected to the radio* >_>
Methinks I should print this thread out and go sit in the car for about 4 hours
Methinks I should print this thread out and go sit in the car for about 4 hours
You know I'm doing the same thing but with a Pioneer head unit.
My biggest confusion is where do I tap the white wire from the PAC unit to ???
The white is the only wire to be used but I have no idea which of the 2 remaining harness plugs was for the SWC, then which wire to tap to. Is there ANYONE that has done this and can give the wire harness color to tap ??????
My biggest confusion is where do I tap the white wire from the PAC unit to ???
The white is the only wire to be used but I have no idea which of the 2 remaining harness plugs was for the SWC, then which wire to tap to. Is there ANYONE that has done this and can give the wire harness color to tap ??????
I am also in the middle of doing this and am totally lost. I installed a Kenwood HU last week, held off on the PAC unit because I had no clue what I was supposed to do. I am also confused as to where the location of the "white" wire. Is it in the steering wheel column or behind the HU?
Originally Posted by samhain
I am also in the middle of doing this and am totally lost. I installed a Kenwood HU last week, held off on the PAC unit because I had no clue what I was supposed to do. I am also confused as to where the location of the "white" wire. Is it in the steering wheel column or behind the HU?
I went to a suggested site and was told to nix the SWI-X, sunlight effects IR to the HU and he suggested getting the SWI-PS. I believe he's an installer of some sort cause he mentioned that "They" use this unit a lot when doing installations. He also said after that if I have any issues, he'll work with me. I'll post it up when I'm done and working.....
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