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Possible sound deadening solution?

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Old Jan 26, 2007 | 03:39 PM
  #21  
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i'm gonna give this a shot. i need to do my trunk since i get some disgusting rattles sometimes. if it works, i'll do the doors and probably the rest of the car. does this stuff stink btw?
Old Jan 26, 2007 | 03:43 PM
  #22  
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Nope you can buy it in all kind os sizes too fron 2 inches to 48 inces precut Polyken 626-35 is the part #
Old Jan 26, 2007 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by chadfo
Originally Posted by jsa3mm
Well, I wanted to get some spray foam for the hatch to spray between the sheet metal. I can't see how else one would sound proof the hatch.
I used the pink stuff. That's right, the pink home insulation. It's made to insulate, reduce noise, and is flame retardent. I just cut it in small enough pieces to get it in the openings and stuffed the whole door. I have NO rear hatch rattles when I crank up my system now.
Pink stuff isn't a bad idea as long as it never gets wet. It will hold water. 3M expanding foam in the upper tail gate will also hold water (there really shouldn't be any water here anyway) but above wherever it stops as it is waterproof. A hole throught the expanding foam would allow drainage and circulation (a little) for drying of condensation or mousture. Just things to think about!! And yes without destructing the tailgate you cant get up in the top of it much
Old Jan 26, 2007 | 04:32 PM
  #24  
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thanks onione. i'll look online to see if the lowe's in my neck of the woods carries it.
Old Jan 26, 2007 | 05:28 PM
  #25  
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hey there your not talking about the pink insulation that comes in a roll. If you are using this it is made of fiberglass and can become airborn and can cause cancer ect.............
Old Jan 26, 2007 | 05:35 PM
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Yes I am and since when does fiberglass cause cancer?
Old Jan 26, 2007 | 06:54 PM
  #27  
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American lung Asociation!!
Old Jan 26, 2007 | 07:57 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by onionescion
Wow Now I could have read the material sheet wrong on there website but ill check again nope did not think so it is a butyl base unless the make asphalt with butyl it is not aspalt base. but I could be wrong. who realy knows what the put in asphalt. just to let you know that the price is a lot cheaper like less than .60 cents a square foot and weighs less too. So even if the first layer is not the second layer still only csot you less than .60 cents.
I was not saying this is not the case now. All I am saying is that a few years ago, when I worked at Home Depot, I read the label for something similar and it was Asphalt based. Whether they are stocking a new product, or the company has changed the materials, I'm not sure.

But I know what I saw back then and was going off of my experience (I was a college kid and wanted cheap sound deadening).

I searched Polyken and the stuff you are talking about, I'm assuming, is. flashing tape. (pdf file)

Something to note here looking at that product. The operating temperature is up to 200*F. B-quiet Xtreme (asphalt based) is up to 230*F. I had B-quiet extreme in my cavalier. After one summer in Florida, the stuff began to peal and hang all over the place. I'd post pics, but CarDomain is not working right now.

I wouldn't trust applying this stuff on any sloped, vertical, or inverted surface if you live in areas of warm climate.
Old Jan 26, 2007 | 10:11 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by jsa3mm
Originally Posted by TerribleTed
Originally Posted by jsa3mm
What about spray expanding foam and then cutting away any excess???
Works also, sloppy to work with tho, and you must be very carefull where you put it depending on the product. Is also not that easy to cut away the excess. Home store expanding foams used in house construction if applied between 2 layers of sheet metal might cause buckeling of the sheet metal as it expands. There are specialty expanding fooms made for automotive use 3M has a few different ones in fact. They have a soft foam that wont buckle panels if applied between them...it is expensive as hell tho....it is usually used to stop noise and air infiltration in roof pillars and door posts.
If you want good sound deadening and easy installation without a bunch of fuss and mess you can't go wrong with a pruduct designed specifically for this purpose. Dynamat, RaaMat, Edead and others are good choices. Reseach I did indicates that Butyl based materials are better than asphalt based.
Well, I wanted to get some spray foam for the hatch to spray between the sheet metal. I can't see how else one would sound proof the hatch.
I don't suggest it and absolutely recomend NOT to use it unless you're really good with this stuff. The reason for this is when the spray gets in between the body panel and the reinforcement, it will expand and exert pressure onto the panel which more than likely will push the panel outward and warping the panel. Once these things dry, its super hard or almost impossible to take off - especially if its in a location that you can't access (like in between the reinformcement).
Old Jan 26, 2007 | 10:42 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by onionescion
American lung Asociation!!
2001- The IARC working group revised their previous classification of glass wool being a possible carcinogen. It is currently considered not classifiable as a human carcinogen. Studies done in the past 15 years since the previous report was released, do not provide enough evidence to link this material to any cancer risk.

Quoted from http://www.lungusa.org/site/pp.asp?c=dvLUK9O0E&b=35439
Old Jan 26, 2007 | 10:47 PM
  #31  
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are you guys trying to stop resonance or road/exhaust noise?
Old Jan 27, 2007 | 05:46 AM
  #32  
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you got me there but i was reading the New york times and there is an artical there on a new study for figerglass check it out. I have worked with the stuff befor for boats and houses the stuff is not good for you can cause lung problems.
Old Jan 27, 2007 | 12:39 PM
  #33  
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I don't have a lot of experience with it but you are right that it can be pretty nasty. I'd never heard anything about a cancer risk with it until you mentioned it. I always heard about asbestos for that.

I put it in paper side out and the rear panel seals up pretty well so other than the movement of the car I don't think I'm too much more at risk than being in my home. Anyone concerned could just seal it up with plastic sheeting like the vapor barriers in the doors. It really does work well.
Old Jan 27, 2007 | 02:47 PM
  #34  
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just so you know when you put the recirculate on in the car on the heater controls you might get particals floating in the car if so you will inhale them. Im just saying watch out you dont want to get a lung disease!!!!!
Old Jan 27, 2007 | 03:14 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by onionescion
just so you know when you put the recirculate on in the car on the heater controls you might get particals floating in the car if so you will inhale them. Im just saying watch out you dont want to get a lung disease!!!!!
How would the recirculate cause particals to float?
Old Jan 27, 2007 | 05:56 PM
  #36  
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I dont know if you guys have ever heard of it buy FAT MAT is pretty much the same thing as DYNO MAT but like way cheaper. thats what I have in my trunk
Old Jan 27, 2007 | 10:59 PM
  #37  
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The stuff that im talking about is less than .60 a squar foot... Well when you recicycle the air it goes through the whole car anr recycles the air through all the vents...
Old Jan 28, 2007 | 12:24 AM
  #38  
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Damn. That is way cheap. Did you find out if it works yet? like to the same effect?
Old Jan 29, 2007 | 04:52 AM
  #39  
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yeah my car has been done for going on 3 years no prob here!!!!!!
Old Jan 29, 2007 | 05:31 AM
  #40  
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An extremely useful link!

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/



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