quadraphonic

Hey guys.. two quick questions.

Is there anyway to get text to scroll on the Scion HU, or can you only scroll by pressing and holding the text button?

Also, does anyone know what it reads mp3 song info from? ID3 V1 or V2?

My last questions are about speakers/subs, do you guys know what the ohm ratings for all the speakers is?

Also, for subs, is there anything else that can plug into the HU sub-wise? What are my options in that area?

quadraphonic

bump for some help? any help?

Docsnuff

Hey Take off Hoser, Eh....

I just wanted to say that... I was listening to Bob and Doug today on the Radio....
Koo, koo koo koo koo koo koo koo...

Hopefully someone has your anwers, maybe you can ask again in March and I can help you. The only other thing you can do is do asearch and take the time to read the posts...

Doc

quadraphonic

I found out a bit of info, seems that speaker ohm rating is 4 ohms.. someone posted that it was a four channel system.. does that mean there's a crossover in-line to run hi-pass to the dash and low-pass to the doors?

Seems more like a six channel set-up to me.

FLXB

most all decks and speakers ar 4ohms i shoud say speakers are 4 ohms now the bose(boso) are like 1ohm its the way they are built ie corvetts lexus nissan some models have the boso sound system

as far as scion its all 4 ohm as far a low pass and hi pass there are some eq settings in the deck

and if there ar tweeters in the door piler opposit of hte mirror they would have a capasitor (spellein) i call it a cap for short that only allows sertin frequencies through ie 700 and up to 10000 herts (Hz) for the highs now given when you hit the scion sound button it will change the relitive sound that you here ---just like if you do it on your home system ie jazz large house hall game virtual suround --- it has preset eq settings that change the sound and the time delay (echo)

when you think of a 6 channel system in the sion its not the tweeters if any are tied into the door speakers with that (cap) none of the doors have low pass comming to them it has that (cap) that only lets in low frequencies in and keeps out the highs

have i confused you yet !!!

if you own a scion yank out the deck look at the tech site on this forum and look for the wire diagram for the speakers and use a meter(digital multi meter or analog) and ohm out the speakers (touch the leads of the meter to the correct speake wires) it might red 3.87 or 5.23 or so but sinse its a transducer it will not give you an exzct reading un less its blown it might read 1 or some crazy off the wall number like 258 ohms if you have the speaker in your hand and do the same thing and push on the cone the meter will go up and down as to what you are doing

for your mpe reading its my best guess its v1 but i dont really know its a pioneer deck( ha ha with sony guts i bet for the cd mechinism)

what ever you do do not DO NOT hook a subwoofer to teh stock scion deck it will fry it maby not on the first try but over a little time the amp board inside will heat up to blood red hot and toast ----- use an external amp to hook up subs if you want to use your stock head unit go and buy a line level converter to take the high voltage speaker level outout of the deck and it converts to a rca low level signal to hook up to your aftermarket amps you will have to tap in to the factory speaker wires behind the deck --- thats the easist to do since if you put an amp in you will beable to get an amp turn on lead ( switched wire or acc wire that turns on the deck when you put the key in)

its ok to change out the door and dash speakers with aftermarket brands they might be better materials that they are made of then the stock paper cones


i hoped i helped you a little

chad

quadraphonic

Sounds like you're saying the tweeters are spliced in with the door speakers. I don't know if they're capped or not on my echo, I put a 600Hz bass blocker in with the 4" JBLs I installed, though if I ever put mids in the door, I'll probably get caps to hi-pass around 3500Hz instead.

As for a sub, I was just looking for the cleanest install. Since there's both a Toyota sub available, and the bazooka (which power draw power from the HU), I was hoping that something similar could be worked out with other powered subs. That way I could minimize the amount of wiring needed. THe one's I'm looking at right now are the JBL BassPro, or the Infinity Basslink. I wouldn't go with a line output converter though. Both of those subs have speaker level inputs, so I'd just splice into the rear speakers, or disconnect them altogether and run the line directly to the sub.

Thanks for all the info though, it made the picture a lot clearer.

Milhamscion

The scions don't have a capacitor. A capacitor is like an auxillary battery.

Itsdchz

The bazooka through toyota DOES NOT draw its power from the output of the HU. It does have a seperate harness that plugs into the HU and the power is supplied through the harness on back of the HU for the Bazooka's AMP, remote and signal. The Bazooka is a Self Powered 100watt Unit.

FLXB

not the same type of cap in a since we are on the same page but these are much smaller and go inline on teh positive side of the speaker and only allows bass or highs through the cap your thinking of goes in line with the power wire to the amp to suppliment the power needs of the amp for that extra boost of power

Itsdchz yes your right it does mot draw its power from the head unit but i would be real finniky for not running at least 10ga power wire to the batt ---- saw somwhere that its an all in one harness and it gets its power from the harness that it clips into on the back of the deck ???? i dont like that --- not enough juice!!

if you have any more questions please ask away we are all here to help god knows ive learned a lot already


thanks

chad

Milhamscion

Hey flxb... Your right aboout the power coming from the back of the deck. I had the same thoughts about the power source. I've always run much heavier power wire for the amps in my rides. Although, our Trac car's sub seems to do fine with the factory harness. Maybe cuz it's a reletively low amount of watts it's cool.

toybox1

just a little note ... a cap is not a little battery .... but a roll (usually cuz it provides the most surface area) of dielectric matrieral which will charge/discharge depending on the input voltage allowing for a constant charge to come out ... it does not store any energy but smooths it out .... spikes in voltage (from the alternator since it does not spin at a constant velocity) can damage the electrical components designed to withstand only a certain amount of voltage ............ jeeze, college actually was worth something :D

FLXB

yep your right i should hav epointed that out as it smooths out the voltage it also can take some of that engine noise out that you here when you push on the gass ......wwwwzzzzzeeeeeee wwwwwoooooozzzzzzz haha

but the alternator does have a regulator built in or can be an out board regulator that allows enough current power and what nots out then its up to the individual electrical compoents (computer wipers heater ) to take in and put out the power ie in 13.2 v out 5.4 for something in the computer ----correct me if im wrong

quadraphonic just stop into a reputable car audio and ask some questions if they dont want to help find another shop

KrAuSeScIoN me to ive always had a good power and ground source

ive had this setup for some time now

optima yellow top
10 inches of streetwire 4 ga to 150 amp wafer fuse
then back to the back of the car with 4 ga
into another 150 amp wafer to a 1 farad cap from the cap
to a 4 ga in 4-8ga maxi fuse holder/distribution
to the amps

for the ground its bolted to the frame (which was scraped clean of paint and stuff)
4ga for it to the cap
from the cap to a 4 ga in to 4-8ga ground block
8 ga to amps

ill have to get a photo and let you see it i think its the best was for somthing moderate to large scale

hth

chad

quadraphonic

Sorry, that's what I meant.. no speaker-level inputs.

You mean Self-Amplified Powered unit though, right?

quadraphonic

It's tough for me to get info from shops here though because we don't have Scions.. Maybe I'll aska few Toyota staff members what they know about it all.

As far as caps and coils, I've got a decent handle on those as far as signal processing (hi-,lo-pass), I'm not going to worry about those for the time being though as I'm only looking at powered subs and they generally have built-in crossovers anyway.

toybox1

yes ... you are correct :D

the reason that you want to use a cap is that the regulator only keeps the charge from exceeding 14+ volts at high rpm .... it does nothing to create a constant voltage ... which is the nice things about caps .... when the voltage drops the cap resists this change by "discharging" .... when the voltage increases it resists this change by "absorbing" or "charging"

this is not necessary for most onboard electronics since at idle the alternator puts out enough to power them ... but through in an amp that suck up lots of juice ... and problems happen ... which is why even small systems can benifit from having a cap installed ... it prolongs the life of the whole car not just the system

quadraphonic

I would suspect though, that the draw from the amp in the bazooka is not sigificant enough to have a negative effect on the car.