Yoshii

Im running HID's on mine....

SWiSS

^^^ i wish i was

yankeeintruder

Using H1R-1 and H1R-2 bulbs....... the ones that are stock on the Dodge Viper. Ultra bright....crystal clear glass (no tinting)... draws same amps and volts....no extra heat....long life...looks awesome and lights everything up.

Stock TC bulbs are 9006 and 9005....... with 9006 in the fog lights. The Viper bulbs are 9011 and 9012...... 9011 are the high beams and 9012 is the low beam. I put 9012 in the fog lamps and although might be too bright to be used as a fog light, it makes an awesome driving light. Haven't had any fog here to try them out yet. There was another thread on these bulbs in this forum before.

The base is the same but there is a little extra more tab on one of the three tabs. It is easily filed off. In fact, I got my 3 sets off eBay, $29.99 plus shipping which is the same for 2-8 bulbs and they were sent to me with the tab already filed down...ready to install. Just do a search for H1R bulbs. And make sure you're buying Toshiba bulbs and not GE bulbs which have been discontinued due to being too fragile.

etarui

Just picked up silverstars last night. I'll see how good they are on my way home tonight.

Max2k

I'm flossing the Supreme Power bulbs, they were $25 with free shipping and still rock out after about 11 months of use.

TorneoDude

I run real 23K-volt 8000K HI/LOW H4/9003 HID's that use an electronic shutter to allow the beam to bounce off the bottom of the reflector for high beams.

(If the pictures don't load into the post, cut & paste the URL's into your browser to see them.)





The OE foglights have yellow tinted lenses and the OE Denso 55 watt halogens.

I was running 4100K Sylvania SilverStar halogen bulbs in my headlights before I installed the HID's.


I will be adding 4" diameter round chromed "driving* lights" (* according to VA law must be wired into high beam circuit) with 23KV 8000K H4 HID's into the grille within the week to increase my high-beam output. Pictures will follow in my profile afterward.


Warning: Skip the rest if you could care less.


Just a quick lighting primer for those interested:

The "K" value of a lamp is the color in degrees Kelvin and not the lumens or light output. Contrary to popular belief, the higher the K, the lower the actual useable light. (Higher K-values create light spectrums that are less inclined to reflect back to the driver after striking most objects as the light approaches the ultraviolet range.)
Of the true-HID (arc-lamps) 4300K-6000K has the most "useable" light output as daylight is about 5400K.

Halogen bulbs use a filament in a vacuum bulb filled primarily with halide gas. Very little if any "blue" effect to color is due to the presence of xenon gas in a halogen bulb. The K-value is most directly effected by the tinted coating on these bulbs. Higher K-values on halogen-filament bulbs require a "stronger" tint which "filters" and reduces lumens output. (This is why many "HID-white" halogens have much higher wattages: to offset the losses from the filter/tint.)

HID creates light by passing thousands of volts across a gap between two carbon arc-rods inside of a sealed tube (bulb) filled with specific rare gasses. The exact composition of the gasses (and not a tint on the lamp surface) creates the K-value (color). Therefore the illumination does not filter out other colored light since it does not produce any.

True arc-lamp HID lighting produces 3x the number of lumens of a street-legal automotive halogen system. Therefore, tinted halogen bulbs are not capable of actually duplicating HID light output. HID accomplishes this at a 35 watt power consumption (at the ballast) verses 55-100 watts rate at the bulbs compared to halogens.

The ballasted arc-lamp system is a "cool" system and generates very little waste in the form of "heat" projected through the headlight lenses. If you hold your hand in front of an HID headlamp and compare with a similar halogen one, you can "feel" this for yourself.

Tinted halogen bulbs can produce HID-mimic colors but cannot be a completely equivalent substitute. Higher wattages required to retain light output from tinted halogens may damage OE wiring (designed for 55/65 watts) without upgrading to include relays and heavier wiring to the bulbs.

Most H4 compatible HID systems for sale are LOW-beam only and will therefore not pass most State's motor vehicle inspections. There are two HI-LOW types available for between $400-500. The most common has an HID-tube for the low beam and a halogen bulb mounted to the same base. The other has an electronically-activated shutter under the HID-tube that opens to redirect the light for high-beam.

The HID/halogen combo is used on several OE applications but can have a shortened life if the high-beam is used too often. Some experts have sighted thermal-stress to the HID tube from the high heat-output from the halogen compared to the lower temperature of the HID-tube. Whether this is uncontested fact is unknown.

The main drawback of the shutter-type is that it does not decrease the amount of foreground lighting while on high-beam. This makes it more difficult for the pupils of the driver's eyes to dilate sufficiently to focus clearly on the more distant beam. (I can corroborate this from personal experience.)


I thought you might find that interesting.

Sorry if I put anyone to ZZZzzzzzzzZZzzz

r1mirostc

which ones did everyone pick up??? is it somethin like 9006???

Agent_Orange

Better double check your VA Law, The last time I got rejected The inspector showed me in his book that driving and fog lights were to be hooked up to LOW beams only. (I know this is stupid) But, This is the way it is FACTORY on my Durango also.
I'll check the DMV code and get back with you, it is avail on the net.
-Danno

Agent_Orange

I checked it out and you are correct. To think that guy made me rewire those clear lights before he put a sticker on the truck.
BTW, here is the link
http://leg1.state.va.us/cgi-bin/legp...19VAC30-70-160
MHOplogy
-Danno

TorneoDude

Yep, many VA state inspectors know just enought to be dangerous.

If you hadn't found it, I was going to cite you the various VA "Administrative Codes" that apply:

http://leg1.state.va.us/cgi-bin/legp...19VAC30-70-530

http://leg1.state.va.us/cgi-bin/legp...19VAC30-70-160

http://leg1.state.va.us/cgi-bin/legp...19VAC30-70-140


I intent to print them out and have them on-hand for my inspection.

If the inspector gives me any crap I could file a complaint with the VA State Police. My other alternative is to remove the H4 xenon tubes from the housings of the driving lights; then they qualify as "ornaments" if they contain no lamp-units.

The same goes for the HID Hi/low headlamps. The systems are completely plug-n-play and I can relamp with halogen bulbs and reconnect the 3-wire connector back to stock in less than 5 minutes.

Incidentally, I completed the 4" round driving-light install into a TCM grille last night and I should be posting updated pix. soon. The cut-out of the ABS center-grille for the driving lights wasn't too bad but I would offer this advice: Mark the outline with a marker and then only drill one hole big enough to thread a coping-saw blade through. By cutting and rotation the blade direction periodically, you can get a pretty nice cut that requires a minimum of filing. I made the mistake of starting the first hole by trying to "drill" around the outline and I have a circular "nick" that can be seen from at least one angle upon close inspection. Otherwise, the lights proved to be very functional and I am overall very pleased with how the TCM grille with the 4" round chromed lights looks on my Polar White xB.

These lamps also came with a real nice low wattage DRL (daytime running light) that I will probably wire through a 5-wire (DPDT) relay so that it will cut-off when the high-beams come on. Fodder for a future project. (Let me know if anyone has wired DLR's on one of these and how you did it.)

Now all I have to wait for is my Japanese Rosewood veneer interior to get here....

TorneoDude

Okay,

I have new pix posted of the grille/HID mod starting on this page:

http://groups.msn.com/2005ToyotaTorn...ti.msnw?Page=6

Be sure to click on the thumbnails to enlarge the detail and read the comments if you follow this link.

OR...

They begin with the first picture in the link below:
(If you use this link, just use the "next" tab above the photo to scroll through them without having to click on thumbnails for each one.)

http://groups.msn.com/2005ToyotaTorn...oto&PhotoID=72




About the beam pattern pix...

I'll apologize in advance for the quality of the nighttime shots of the headlight patterns. The camera was set for Landscape Mode rather than Night Scene. Landscape Mode is intended to accentuate greens to make scenery more vivid. The correct way to take these photos would have been to set the shutter and aperature priority manually or possibly to use the Night Scene mode.

I also did not realize how much being at an angle to the garage door would throw off the view/alignment of the high-beam's visible hotspots. The light reflecting off the white door was so intense that, in person they were much less distinctive and they tended to migrate off center depending on whether your viewing angle was from the left of right.

Again, the camera's auto light-metering system reacted to the intense light in contrast to the otherwise pitch-black surroundings by reducing the aperature and speeding up the shutter to the point where it muted and darkened the photos. The close-ups are okay for pattern but tend to mute the light and increase the contrast too much to give a decent idea of how bright the light actually is. The distance perspective tends to do a better job of this.

The intensity of the light can be better seen when looking at the LOW-beam/cut-off distance photos. To get a better guage of how much light the high beam-system is actually producing, compare the the high-beam distance shot with the low-beam distance shot and the final one with the yellow fogs on . Keeping in-mind that the intensity below the low-beam cut-off is the same with the high-beams lit as it is on low-only provides a little better point of reference for comparison.

Once again, I apologize for not taking better night shots. I hope they are good enough to demonstrate approx what my HID set-up can do.

badtouch

PIAA Super Plasma GT-X bulbs and lovin em. nice and bright

Somnambulated

Sylvania Silverstars.

I'll never use any bulb labeled "Hyperwhite!" again, after a pair of Hyperwhite bulbs melted the map lights in my last car.