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What is the correct way to bondo?

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Old Apr 22, 2004 | 06:50 PM
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Default What is the correct way to bondo?

My ignited panel should be coming in today or tomorrow and i want to bondo it in to my console. Just wondering what is the correct way to bondo an item into plastic. My dad's paint guy uses some stuff called Kitty Hair or something like that, it's got strands of fiberglass in it, supposed to be for plastics, he uses it to fix bumbers and what not, but i don't know if i should be using that on the interior of the car.
What are the steps to using bondo successfully if I were to mold something into my console?
Old Apr 22, 2004 | 07:52 PM
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What are you bondoing on ur console?

Body filler may not stick so well on interior plastics. But if you want to try it, i would clean it with acetone and SEM plastic paint prep... Then try a small section...

If you are forming a new console, then I would staple grille cloth material to it..Resin it..then fill it.
Old Apr 22, 2004 | 08:05 PM
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Default Re: What is the correct way to bondo?

Originally Posted by tbblizzard
My ignited panel should be coming in today or tomorrow and i want to bondo it in to my console. Just wondering what is the correct way to bondo an item into plastic. My dad's paint guy uses some stuff called Kitty Hair or something like that, it's got strands of fiberglass in it, supposed to be for plastics, he uses it to fix bumbers and what not, but i don't know if i should be using that on the interior of the car.
What are the steps to using bondo successfully if I were to mold something into my console?
this is not the right or wrong way, but some pointers I used when I did mine.

- I used bondo glass instead of regular bondo ( totally your choice, however the latter is much stronger)
- get an extra tube of bondo hardener
- follow directions for right mixture and don't mix more than u can use in 15 min or so
- slapped bondo glass on the back and front of the item to be molded and make sure to overfill the gaps
- start w/ 80 grit dry sanding just to get the bumps and lumps downs , then 220, 400 wetsand ( I try not to go over 600 so my primer gets a better stick but choice is totally up to u, up to 2500 grit if u want too )
- I use bondo glazing putty for pinholes and minor scartches ( i use a sanding block for the glazing putty, too delicate/soft for power sanding IMO )
- for deep gouges or holes which hopefully u wont have, I use a bondo resin mixture
- don't go cheap on paint and primer, used to use KRYLON primer and paint but switched to DUPONT (better quality IMO ) for expanding/sandable primer and for paint
- BEST ADVICE: patience w/ sanding....paint result turn out depends a lot on how well u prepared the surface ( BTW this is based on experience since this is my biggest problem, I tend to rush and get done right away shows in the final result too )

hope this helps

PEACE
Old Apr 22, 2004 | 08:37 PM
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awesome! thanks alot. will come in handy. you have a pic of what you did?

i'm like that too, i want things to be done NOW so i try to think of ways to rush it and it ends up turning out like crap. not a very patient person.

but i'll take my time on this since i can drive my car with it off, i rush everything else cause it was needed on the car to be drivable, or at least look normal.

thanks for your help, i'll definately go out and get those supplies today, hopefully i can start on it tonight.
Old Apr 22, 2004 | 11:04 PM
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well, i went to lowes to get the supplies.. they don't got crap there.. home depot has way more stuff, but was already there so got what i could. instead of bondo glass, i got a bondo fiberglass kit, comes with all the stuff needed, fiberglass cloth, brush, applicator, resin, ect... figure the fiberglass will probably stick better to plastics than the reg bondo. i was hoping my panel would get in today, but not till tomorrow.
this fiberglass stuff looks a little easier to work with also :D
i hope so
thanks for the recommendations, i picked up all the sand papers and what not and i already got my lexan cut to size for the slot, just need to cut the sides and fit them when i get the panel... i'll make sure i get the pictures up tomorrow when i start on it.
Old Apr 23, 2004 | 02:08 AM
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Originally Posted by tbblizzard
well, i went to lowes to get the supplies.. they don't got crap there.. home depot has way more stuff, but was already there so got what i could. instead of bondo glass, i got a bondo fiberglass kit, comes with all the stuff needed, fiberglass cloth, brush, applicator, resin, ect... figure the fiberglass will probably stick better to plastics than the reg bondo. i was hoping my panel would get in today, but not till tomorrow.
this fiberglass stuff looks a little easier to work with also :D
i hope so
thanks for the recommendations, i picked up all the sand papers and what not and i already got my lexan cut to size for the slot, just need to cut the sides and fit them when i get the panel... i'll make sure i get the pictures up tomorrow when i start on it.
- hope u didn't forget the bondo body filler u'll need it to top off the fiberglass u got. just a lil tip before u apply the body filler sand down the fiberglass to an acceptable surface..if u need too...fill in big holes w/ resin mixture...

as far as the picture of my dash, I posted one before, ghetto lookin' esp. w/ the texture paint I used 'm currently tryin' to give it a lil bit of facelift, experimenting w/ dimensions hoping it would look interesting...will pst some pics if it turns out descent

PEACE
Old Apr 23, 2004 | 02:13 AM
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you will want to sand the area where you going to use bondo. it will allow the bondo to stick better. you really don't need to bondo the ignited panels in. it will cause more work then what needs to be done. if you want to use bondo get some marglass. it is a little thicker, but better in the long run. if you are going to mount plastics i would i use fiberglass resin, but that is a lot harder to work with.
Old Apr 24, 2004 | 04:44 PM
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A word on spray paint (i do graffiti so I know a lot about spray paint): Krylon is bad, go get some rustoleum (rusto is oil based, krylon is solvent based. rustoleum covers better in fewer coats and drips less).


Edit: Actually, don't use either. Use plastic paint or auto paint.
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