rebelMan

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Attention (Edited 2-2-06):

For those of you just reading this thread, this orinal post below and all the others following it have not been edited or changed by me to update the things that i changed during the install. The information below differs from what i actually did do during my install. I'm leaving it this way because this thread is more of a reference thread that has a ton of good information (mostly answers to a LOT of questions i asked). Eventually once i'm done with my air ride install (Front installed and everything mounted all pretty) i will be creating a separate post for those pics. The post will be kind of like a big documentary of my install with a **** load of pictures, and of course finished pictures with a video. For now i have pictures of the rear install on Page 13 of this thread along with a video i recently made and uploaded from Scion Exposed 2.0 in Miami, Fl on 1-21-06.

Here is the video: http://media.putfile.com/Bagged-Camo <<<<<<<<<<

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After seeing the many bagged xB's on the forums and just the cool factor of having air suspension has made me want it ever since I got my xB. I've read about the AirRunner, Easy Street, and pieced together kit conflicts and i know all about it.

I've decided to piece my kit together for a few reasons. First being price. I'm 17 and between work and school i don't have much money left over each month. If I could afford the AirRunner kit i would have it. I know it's a "reliable" kit, but from what i've heard from a wide variety of people, as long as you use good parts and do a good install any set up is "reliable". Of course any kit is only as reliable as you maintenance it.

Anyhow, i'm definitely new to air suspension but i've read up a lot on it and have learned a ton from other members on here. Sittin_Pretti's diagram really cleared up a lot of stuff (even though the valve mistake did confuse me at first until he mentioned that it was incorrect).

The diagram and all the fittings he used are in his post here:

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...r=asc&start=25

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What I plan on getting so far is:

Front ES Air Struts 530$

This is where i found them this cheap:
FBI rear brackets 99$

http://fbimini.com/product.asp?idno=249893

RS52 Slam Specialties bags (x2) 140$

http://fbimini.com/product.asp?idno=3955

Viair 450 Compressor 190$

http://suicidedoors.com/Viair_450_150_PSI_(FREE_SHIPPING).php

Chrome 5 Gallon 4 1/2" Ports 60$

http://suicidedoors.com/Chrome_5_Gallon_4_Port.php

"FBI's Most Wanted" Blitzluft Jr. 1/2" electric valve (x4) 120$

http://fbimini.com/product.asp?idno=4015

1/2" DOT Air Line- 60 foot roll- Black 40$

http://fbimini.com/product.asp?idno=253627

Estimated Total: 1200$~ [it will probably be a little more for small misc. stuff]

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I know i'm going to need more than just that, but i'm not sure what exactly i need yet. For starters, a pressure switch. I figured i will get a 4 port tank for:

-1 Port for the Compressor to pump in the air
-1 Port for a pressure switch (I do put it in a port on the tank right?)
-1 Port for a line that goes to a T-fitting for the front struts
-1 Port for a line that goes to a T-fitting for the rear bags

Is that what i should do? For the pressure switch, the Viair doesn't come with one right? Would this work for the Viair?

http://fbimini.com/product.asp?idno=3883

I guess that switch will keep the PSI in the tank between 110-145PSI? Do i need one to keep more pressure in the tank? I know the Viair compressor is rated at 150PSI max, does that mean that it will only fill the tank up to 150? This is one part that i'm confused on, any guidance on a pressure switch will be appreciated

Now for the controls. I plan on running a Front-Back setup because i don't see a personal need to have all the control of a FBSS system. And it's more $$ and more stuff that "could" break. So i'm guessing that i will only need two 3-way momentary switchs right? One for the front, and one for the back? I will just two of these if it will work:

http://fbimini.com/product.asp?idno=3881

Also for the switchs and valves, do I need to get this wire specifically?

http://fbimini.com/product.asp?actio...icks&idno=3890

Any recommendations on that would be cool! Will the valves i posted be good enough for me? The bigger the size the faster the bags fill up right? I'm not interested in having the fastest bags out there, i just want a "practical" air ride kit. When i'm parked i want it dumped and when i drive i want it to be at a reasonable height, able to raise it up if i need to go through water (yea it floods around here, not too much) and over speed bumps and steep drive-ways.
From what i know this setup should be plenty for me, if i take my time and do the install the best i can i'm sure it'll last a long time. I also want a water trap if anyone has any recommendations on one. I want to at least mount the compressor inside so it doesn't get raped by the weather. I think the valve will be ok, i'll just clean them regularly when i drain the tank. I plan on using push connects so i can remove stuff easily if i need too. I'm open to all types of sugestions so let me know what you think. I'll take a bunch of pics to attempt to make a DIY or just to provide pics so people can see what all is involved. I plan to piece together the kit starting first thing next year. I'm going to get the rear setup installed first and just block off the extra port on the tank until i can get the front struts.

One more thing, Anyone know a good, cost-friendly dual needle gauge i should get? Hit me up ^_^. I assume i'll have to get some reducing fittings for the 1/2" line to fit into the gauge.

Thanks Guru's, i'm sure you'll provide some good info.

RTon20s

I will try and address your questions/comments/plans in the same order you mentioned them...

You can get your front struts cheaper at http://store.gaugemagazine.com

You can also save money on your bags. FBI has a great price on the SS bags, but you can switch to a different brand and save $30. I know you said you were on a budget. Same drop and more lift out of the Air Lift 2B6. And you can pick them up for even less at the gaugestore.

You can get the Viair compressor at http://www.truckshop.com for $175. Excellent company to deal with. Jeff and Jody are both great guys. Also, where are you going to mount your compressor? If you are mounting it inside the car I would go with the Viair 400C instead of the 450C. It will perform better, and save you money.

I would also spend the extra $5 to get a 9 port tank as opposed the 4 port. Try and get each air line running off of its own port. The less compromises you make with your air system the happier you will be. And remember... each 90 degree elbow fitting you add is like adding 7 ft. of airline. Or you could save $5 and get a 9 port tank in black instead of chrome.

Are you sure you want to go with 1/2" valves? I understand you are splitting that 1/2" valve between the two sides, but I would probably go with a different brand. My personal choice based on the rest of your system would be SMC 3/8" NPT 10mm orifice valves. You can get them with the mounting bracket for under $30 each from http://www.truckshop.com

And this way when you decide to upgrade to FBSS all you have to do is buy 4 more of the same. I really think 1/2" valves are too much for an xB. I would also upgrading to 8 valves if at all possible. This will eliminate body roll. When you run a 4 valve set up you have air transfer from side to side. The air transfer just compounds any body roll you may already have. Definitely not a good thing. And something I have yet to see addressed by people on this site.

1/2" airline is fine, but you would probably be ok with 3/8". The rest of your system isn't optimized to handle the 1/2" valves and line. All you are doing is creating more volume to fill. You won't see much, if any speed increase. (Suicide has 50 ft. of 3/8" airline for $20.)

With the recommendations I made (assuming your $1200 total was right) you could save almost $100. Another $20 and you can buy those 4 more 3/8" SMC valves. Then you get FBSS and no side to side air transfer. That translates to a better handling xB with more adjustability.

Your assumptions about the pressure switch are correct. It is installed into the tank, and wired to the compressor. And yes the compressor is rated to work up to 150 psi. The pressure switch will actually shut it off at 145 though. Not a big deal at all.

Now to your controls. Yes, momentary on-off-on switches are what you want. You can buy them separately and build your own switch box. This is cool if you want to build a custom box, or mount them into a console or your dash somewhere.

If you aren't building a custom box or mounting them in a console, you would probably be better off purchasing a pre-built, pre-wired box. There are several options from most online stores. Everywhere from $20 all the way up to several hundred. This would be especially helpful if you do move up to 8 valves. You would want a minimum of 4 switches. But 10 switch boxes are going cheap these days at $20.

You also don't have to buy that wire you listed specifically. It helps when you are wiring up a big switch box. Wire is pretty much wire though. You can pick it up from a local hardware store or stereo shop. In fact, you will have to pick up some more locally, even if you do buy the wire that you listed. To get from the wire you have shown back to the valves, etc.

As far as the gauges, just check out what suicide doors has. I personally prefer the look of the KP dual needle, but that's just me. You get whatever you like. $30 seems to be the going price for a dual needle gauge. If you go FBSS you will want/need two. You will also want to pick up some smaller air line to plumb the gauges. 1/8" or 1/4" depending on which ones you buy.

I hope that helps. And if you have any questions, about what I've posted just let me know. I'll do my best to help you out.

Spider13

I agree with almost everything above. I defiantly recommend running 3/8 or smaller valves. I run 1/2 all the way to the bag and its way way too fast. If you went 3/8 all the way I still think it may be a little on the fast side. But with 1/2 plumbing and 175 psi, I could hop the front end if I wanted to, full lift is nearly instant. I'd also recommend running a 110-145 switch...this aught to help keep stress on compressor to a minimum. Don't really think you need the extra 30 to run a 175 switch.

Only thing above that I would disagree with....and it’s purely my opinion, is stay away from airlift as much as possible. I know for the front, they are the only real choice, but I'd sure not buy airlift bags for the rear. SS bags are nice, and firestone has been an industry standard for years. But I can say without a doubt I'll never put airlift anything on another car I own. Not only do they seem to have lots of problems with their parts.....but they have some of the most horrible customer service of anyone I've ever dealt with.

I'd also recommend http://www.gaugemagazine.com/ I bought my airlift stuff from them, and thank god I did. I've had problems at least twice that airlift tried to screw me on their bad parts. I tried for nearly 3 weeks to get replacement struts from airlift.....for the amazing stuck strut problem. I finally gave up on them and called gauge, he had parts over nighted to me the next day. So I defiantly vouch for Matt and Gaugemag.

Only other thing I can add is, I've never been a big fan of gauges, sure they can be useful, but IMHO more fittings=more chances for leaks.

sciondrgn

Yup I agree with above but on one thing

The pressure switch. if you run a ViAir Compressor make to sure to buy it with a Viair Pressure Switch and Make sure its on the same receipt.

Ive gone through this a couple times with loosing the warranty because The person was either Not using a Viair Pressure switch and even running the ViAir Pressure switch it wasnt on the orignal order.

Even Though ViAir's can handle more pressure then there rated it just make sure you get the proper pressure switch for the compressor..

Im currently running A 450 at 175 Psi Cut out with no problems but I understand Ive voided my warranty on it.

And this is juts my opnion and my personal use history but stay away from the "c" compressors with the chrome covers over them.. They tend to get hotter and ware out faster.

Im with Spider on the guages. I have 2 dual needles now but Prob will get rid of them.. Less wiring / less fittings means less chance of leaking..

rebelMan

Very nice info. I think based on opinions i will go with the SS bags for the rear. I haven't heard really anything bad about them.

What is your reasoning on getting the 400 instead of the 450 for an inside the car install? (Rton20s)

How do you guys know how high to raise your car without gauges?

Thanks for the links on the cheaper stuff, it's always welcomed!

Also, thanks for the recommendation on the smaller lines and valves. I don't want it to be fast so i'm glad you all told me this much, and it's CHEAPER w00t! I'm still undecided on a FB or FBSS setup. If i got an FBSS setup how would i equally raise the front and back? I want to simplest setup possible. I've seen switch boxs with 10 switchs and i can't figure what you would use all them for. Could i have FBSS with 2 three way switchs? I don't want to raise each corner independently everytime i want to drive the car, it would get old fast. But i would like the control to adjust them independently at shows or for whatever reason. Thanks

BIGShawn

On a ten switch box you will have a switch for each bag(4). Then a switch for the front, back, and each side(4). Also a swith for all four bags(1). On my car the tenth switch is for titer-toter. So if you use the front and back switches the car will raise up the same amount. I dont have any gauges and I have been on air for almost a year.

sciondrgn

After A while you get used to where it needs to be I dont even look at my guages anymore lol

Sittin_Pretti_Box

get a compressor with 100% duty cycle. I dunno if the 400 is or not. too tired to look it up.

RTon20s

The only bad thing I have ever heard about Slam Specialties is that they weather crack, and the internal bump stop prevents them from going as low as other bags. Neither of these things are really an issue. The weather cracking is truly cosmetic. And if you don't need that extra 1/4"-1/2" of drop you lose because of the bump stop it doesn't matter.

I recommend the 400 over the 450 for two reasons. First you said you wanted to mount your compressor inside of the car. That means you do not NEED to run a sealed compressor like the 450. While sealed compressors are great for under vehicles, they don't produce the most air.

Another misunderstanding most people have is duty cycle. Someone here recommended only buying a 100% duty cycle compressor. I absolutely disagree. Duty cycle is a ratio that represents how long you can run your compressor vs. how long it has to be shut off. If a 100% duty cycle compressor runs for 2 minutes, it has to be of for 2 minutes. It is a 1:1 (100%) ratio between off time and on time.

A 33% (Viair 400, and many other compressors) can be on for 1/3 of the time that is switched off. That means for the same 2 minutes of run time you need 6 minutes of off time. If logic stopped there, you would obviously jump on a 100% duty cycle compressor. Luckily for you, me and everyone else here it doesn't.

The other thing we have to consider is the flow rating of the compressors. The flow rating is represented in how many cubic feet of air a compressor can move in one minute. The Viair 450 is rated at 1.66CFM. The Viair 400 is rated at 2.54 CFM.

So given our 2 minute scenario the Viair 450 will produce 3.32 Cubic feet of air, and the Viair 400 will produce 5.08 cubic feet of air. So even though the 450 will be able to turn on sooner, it NEEDS to turn on sooner, and/or run longer to produce the same air as the 400.

Bottom line is, the 400 is a more efficient compressor, and a better choice if you are going to mount the compressor inside the vehicle. And it saves you money. (That was my second reason.) However, if you do decide to mount your compressor under the vehicle you definitely need a SEALED compressor. In that case, the 450 is the logical choice.

As others have said, it is all by feel. You get used to it. The other thing you need to do as soon as you get done bagging a car is get it aligned. Set the vehicle up at ride height and have a GOOD alignment shop get it to spec. That will create a "sweet spot" in your suspension travel. You will be able to know when you hit it by the way your car drives. Otherwise, get gauges. If you are careful, and do your install properly, you have no need to worry about leaks. In the past I left my truck in the garage aired up for MONTHS at a time, and it never leaked out.

Even if you do not set up your controls now for FBSS I would still go with 8 valves. And I would run a separate line from the tank to each valve. The line thing is personal preference, but it just plain makes life easier. Side to side air transfer caused by a 4 valve system can become a pretty big issue in a daily driven vehicle. I'll try to explain why.

Think for a minute about how a F/B set up is plumbed. You have an airline that runs from the tank to a valve, from the valve to a "T" and from the "T" to the bags. All of that air after the "T" is one volume. All of that air is free to travel anywhere within the two bags, the airlines and the "T."

No think about taking your box through a nice curve, at pretty high speed. You know the type that make owning a box fun? Now think about what the laws of physics are trying to do to your box. That thing is wanting to lean to the outside. Your suspension on the outside is getting additional load, and the inside is getting a reduced load. This load balance forces the air out of the outside bag, across the airlines, through the "T" and into the inside bag.

This can cause a vehicle to feel, and become very unstable. It is like putting super soft drop springs on one side of your car, and super stiff stock height springs on the other. No one would ever do that intentionally on a static suspension. Why would you want it on a high end pneumatic suspension? And in "worst case" scenarios you can actually see a negative load on the inside wheels. If that happens, look out. Because you may just be getting a closer view of the pavement than you had wanted.

Enough about that though, you asked about switches. With a FBSS set up I would go with a minimum of 4 switches set up one of two ways. One would be to have one switch for each bag. This gives you the most adjustability. The other would be to go with one switch for the front, one for the rear, one for the right, and one for the left. You get just about the same adjustability, but it is easier on you to make the most common adjustments. With some practice you can adjust each wheel "independently", kind of, but it takes some thought and practice to do so.

Hope that helps.

rebelMan

Ok thanks for the info. I like your explanation on the compressor duty cycle. It seems to make sense to me, but i'm still not sure if i want the compressor inside. If i put it inside in the trunk area, how would i run the line outside the car? Would the compressor just pull in air from inside the cabin or would i run an "in-line" from the outside of the box? I don't really want to drill any holes to run line in/outside the vehicle. I assume that i can somehow get the small lines for the gauges inside through the firewall or some gromet somewhere.

Your discusion on the FB and FBSS pro's/cons is interesting. It makes sense that an FB wouldn't really have the ride quality a FBSS setup would. But i've heard bad things about how a Side/Side system. I've heard that it will create an unbalanced load on different parts of the frame. I guess it causes more stress on the frame then when the car has a "normal" suspension setup?

Another thing i'm confused on is the switchs still. I get that i can just run 4 switchs to each of the 4 fill and 4 dump valves at each corner. And I guess i could add 2 more 3-way momentary switchs to control front & back?

If i do a 6 switch bow, can i just use the front & back switchs to raise and slam the car? The other 4 could just be for extra toys?

I'm just looking on a suggestion that would be good for me. If i'm going to do it, i might as well do it and get it all the first time. What would a 10 switch box do? I know if i got 8 switchs that would be all 4 corners, front, back, side, side right? What would 2 more do?

If i did the 8 three-way switchs, could i just use the front and back ones on a daily basis? I assume that i could.

Also, i can't even imagine how confusing the wiring for that will get. How do i wire to the valves? Don't they have like 3 pins on the back? I guess positive, ground, and i don't know what the hell.

For example, i have 8 swtichs for all 4 corners, front, back, side, side. When i hit the ftont switch to "fill", it won't affect the side switch? Won't it open the side, side switchs? Or maybe the SS switchs will just block the "electric signal" because they'll be "off" right?

So i'd be getting 8 valves. I would have a 6 port tank? Should i get an 8 port with all 1/2" fittings (i think the Viair's line is 1/2" right?) Or would i get one with 1 1/2" fitting for the compressor, and 4 3/8" fittings for the bags, and the last fitting would be for whatever size the pressure switch is? What do you recommend on this? I'd rather just get a black tank cause it'll be under the rear end hopefully. From the 4 ports that go to the bags, i'd have one of those 3/8" "push connector" or w/e connectors, 3/8" line to a fill valve, "extruded block" (do i just put the valve right into the block? or run line between them?), a dump valve on one end of the block, a line running to a guage out the other end, and a line out the last end to one of the bags right? I would use an "extruded block" right? Would i have to put a push-connector on the end of the block that has line going to the bag? I assume that i would cause how else would the line tie in?

I know it's a lot of questions, but i'll use all this to do a big write up once i do the bags i guess. Thanks for the help man!

scion1616

ok the first big mistake will be putting the air compressor inside the car with you. it will get very annoying listening to that thing hum, and also i would personally buy the 480 since it is rated at a higher psi for just a little more cost.

second unless you are running smaller than 18's i would recommend that you use gauges unless you want to end up with a bent fender from ridding just a little to low.

as far as leaks, they are only as bad as the installer because i was one of the first few to bag a scion on here and still untill this day i havent had the first leak or problem what so ever, and that includes the fact i am running easystreet struts also with no problems. and this is after putting close to 13000 on the suspension.

here is a few pics of mine. i have my compressor, valves, and 5gal tank all underneath.

fusionscion

hey if you mount underneath.... there is more wear and tear on the products,,,, and i think that it would harm it to drive in the rain,..... i am also 17 and def. considering air suspension... i think that rebelman has put together an awsome post.... and will def be using some of his info along with links to great prices..... my question is, if you run fbss, the car will be more stable at higher speeds? correct? because the air lines will not have as much slack as with where the air can move as the car is put into turns and other things like that..... another ? is how do we wire up to the switches..... i wired up my own neons and it was confusing as butt! i am very good mechanically, like when i bagg the box, i will def do the install, run lines, ect..... but i will kill myself with the wiring...... how much would it cost(est) to have a pro wire the kit up.....? and what would the best switch box application be..... i want the most adjustability and reliability, without riding crooket or something down the street....... thanks again for all the info....... we all appreciate it

fusionscion

another quick ?..... is that i wanted to know if it would kill be later on if i just did the rear now..... and then later wired up for the front..... or would i have to change the tank, lines, fittings, and all that stuff?............thx i am truely a newb to air suspension

scion1616

there is not any more wear and tear on anything. mine is in the center and high enough to stay completely dry. i obviously wouldnt have put it there if that was the case. you obviously have never heard one of these compressors run inside a vehicle.

as far as a switch box most of them are pre wired and you can just run one wire to each valve.

RTon20s

I really haven't taken a good look at the pan in the cargo area. There may, or may not be existing holes that can be used to route airlines and wiring. If not, you would need to drill a hole, and put a grommet on it.

The stresses placed on the chassis of a vehicle with a moderate speed FBSS air suspension aren't too bad. I would much rather have the stresses of a FBSS system on my car than the side to side load transfer of a F/B set up.

Correct. Each of those two switches will be wired to four valves. One would be wired to the four front valves, the other to the four rear valves.

Exactly.

Once again, your assumptions are correct. Looks like someone is learning. The other two switches can be wired up for pretty much whatever you want. Typically you will see one switch that controls all four valves the same, creating a "pancake switch." All four wheels up, or all four wheels dump. The other is often wired as a "teeter-totter." It will lift one side while dropping the other. When you rock the switch up and down, it will rock the car side to side.

Right again.

Well all valves are different, and even the same valves come with different solenoids. Essentially the one thing they have in common is that in the end you need one connection grounded and the other one to a switched power source. Your switches.

All of the really "complicated" wiring takes place in the switch box. You have a single power wire that goes from each valve to the switch box. Inside the switch box the wires are spliced to each of the different switches. If wired properly the switches will do exactly what you want them to, and not do anything with other valves.

Honestly, just buy yourself whatever is available commercially and cheap. Like the stuff from Suicide Doors. 1/2" ports are fine. You will save an untold amount of time and money buy just buying a standard tank with 1/2" ports and getting reducer fittings instead of trying to find or have made the perfect tank with all of the right port numbers and thread sizes.

To be honest, until you decide what parts you are using, and how you want to mount everything, the answers to these questions are really just shots in the dark. And whether people on here like them or not, Air Lift has some of the best instruction/diagrams in the industry. Just take a look at the instruction manual they have for free on their website...

http://www.easystreetair.com/manuals/27541cd.pdf

The only part I personally disagree with is mounting the valves right on the tanks. I prefer to mount the valves as close as possible to the bags. But this can cause problems for some novices, trying to find a good location to mount them. The "on tank" method Air Lift shows is a little easier for first timers.

It's great that you want to contribute yourself by doing a write up, and I am sure others here would appreciate it. But don't hold yourself to it. I am sure no one else here will either. It's just good to see people taking an interest in trying to build their suspension systems correctly. You would be amazed how many people out there flat out do stuff the wrong way, but are so stuck in their ways they are unwilling to change. Or worse, assume they know much more about air suspension than they really do.

Good luck with your build. And keep us posted as you get your parts. I'm sure we can get you better, more specific answers then.

RTon20s

I understand your reasoning, but in this case I have to respectfully disagree. As much as he says he wants to use the suspension, it won't be an annoyance. And there are tricks to keeping it quieter. First and foremost is doubling up on the isolator bushings. I have seen some guys go triple! You need one between the compressor and what you are mounting it to, and one on the other side of what you are mounting it to.

The first time I saw and heard this done more than 8 years ago I was amazed at how much quieter the compressor actually was. It will still be kind of loud to be inside, but the great benefit of more air faster I think is worth it. Less compressor on time and all. Again, this is only if you aren't going to be switch happy!

And if you are going to be switch happy (not you specifically Scion1616) you are a fool for trying to do it on a single tank and compressor. You should add a nitrogen bottle to the system if you actually plan to play with your bags a lot.

A question for you specifically Scion1616... do you think that the Scion needs 200 psi? I know I haven't bagged one yet, but they are SO light. I couldn't imagine needing more than 150 psi to lift one to full lock.

This also depends on backspacing. But I agree. The only time gauges are almost useless are in a very fast air system. My truck for instance has two 6 gallon with 1/2" valves and 3/4" airline. Right now, I'm not running gauges. Someday, that may change.

Agree 100% an air suspension system is only as good as the install. On a side note... For compression fittings I prefer to use Loctite brand thread sealer as opposed to teflon tape or liquid teflon. I have just had better luck with it.

rebelMan

Thanks for all the help man! Scion16 i was thinking just now, I wonder if i could mount the compressor in the engine bay? They seem like they would be small enough. Especially if i got an SRI then that big area where the stock airbox goes would be open. Would there be any down side to this? I know i'd have to run an airline all the way to the back where the tank will be. How did you mount your compressor under the rear? Is it a Viair? I hear they don't mount well upside down, but i don't see any other way to mount it >_<;

As far as the switchbox goes, i think i just want my switchs in the dash somewhere. That would be kind of cool, like a cockpit lol. Also, if someone trys to steal the car they would get so confused (unless they really know what their doing)

As far as the DIY, it would be more of a pictorial of how "I" did it, not a strict guide. I know a lot of people on here would appreciate some install pics on a scion. Thanks for the pics scion16, looks nice!

One more thing, i will probably have a "dump" switch that will hit all 4 dump valves. The pancake switch sounds good, but from what i've heard it doesn't really raise the xB evenly. Because the front end is heavier so the rear will be up slightly more. It would be cool if i had a 1 flip switch that will raise the front to a specific PSI and the rear to a specific PSI. But i know those electronic ones are a lot of $$$$. I can't wait for this. I need to finish my CarPC project first, off to build a case for the puter!

RTon20s

Components mounted under the car can be completely reliable. As long as you choose the correct components. I would never run a Viair 400, or any other unsealed compressor out in the weather.

And yes, a FBSS set up is more stable than a simple F/B set up. Anyone who says different obvioulsy doesn't know air suspension.

You can also take a look at the link I put up in my other post to the pdf file from Air Lift / Easystreet. http://www.streetbeatcustoms.com also has a wiring diagram for a 10 switch box. Or you can order a prewired box. I typically do not trust the pre-wired plexi boxes that everyone sells. I always check the wiring myself. AVS puts out some pretty nice switch boxes, but they will cost you.

RTon20s

Doing only the back first and the front later shouldn't be a problem. You would just plug the unused ports on the tank. When you add the front set up you just do the additional plumbing and wiring.

Another option is to add a second tank and compressor.

RTon20s

Scion1616,

Can you provide the particulars about your compressor, tank and valve mounting locations. Pics would be cool as well. I would like to see how you have everything mounted up. In particular, how low it hangs compared to the body.

Right now my plan is a custom built air tank with integral compressor mount to go below the spare tire/storage covers in the rear. This would be using two Viair 400 compressors. The other option I was considering was two Viair 450 or 460 compressors mounted below the cargo area, under the car, with a custom built air tank under the spare tire/storage covers.