Rear /lower spring isolator replacement
#1
Rear /lower spring isolator replacement
Sorry if this is against the rules ( moderators, feel free to repost, or?).....but I have this question in the general xA/xB section.... thought it might be better if posted here instead.
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Did anyone simply relace the lower / rear spring rubber isolation pad without taking the whole rear end apart? Some reports say ( of course, after the car is raised and on jackstands)...to remove the lower shock bolt, .....wiggle shock off.... and this allows the rear suspension to go lower. Since I am not removing the rear spring, but DO want to gain SOME clearance underneath the spring to remove/replace the rubber isolator...is that all? Do I need to use a spring compressor even if the spring is still "in-place"? Factory manual ( for "replacing spring") says I also need to loosen brake lines and ABS sensors, etc. Necessary for this job too? Seeking advice.
---------
Did anyone simply relace the lower / rear spring rubber isolation pad without taking the whole rear end apart? Some reports say ( of course, after the car is raised and on jackstands)...to remove the lower shock bolt, .....wiggle shock off.... and this allows the rear suspension to go lower. Since I am not removing the rear spring, but DO want to gain SOME clearance underneath the spring to remove/replace the rubber isolator...is that all? Do I need to use a spring compressor even if the spring is still "in-place"? Factory manual ( for "replacing spring") says I also need to loosen brake lines and ABS sensors, etc. Necessary for this job too? Seeking advice.
#2
... Since I am not removing the rear spring, but DO want to gain SOME clearance underneath the spring to remove/replace the rubber isolator...is that all? Do I need to use a spring compressor even if the spring is still "in-place"? Factory manual ( for "replacing spring") says I also need to loosen brake lines and ABS sensors, etc. Necessary for this job too? Seeking advice.
#3
@62 Fender:
Thanks for the reply. So..... I presume what you call the "knuckle" is the lower spring "cup" or spring "perch". Makes sense if so.....once the lower shock mount is disconnected, the amount of further lowering of the suspension, would be controlled by the jack under the spring perch. Going slow at that point in lowering, we should see if the flex brake line, or ABS sensor line....or things of that nature.... get to their limits of travel before the lower spring comes loose from its perch ( or not)...... thanks for the hints.
(LATER EDIT...OK....the "knuckle" is the extension past the lower shock mounting point ....the exposed portion toward the rear of the car. Seems a bit stronger to place a jack there vs under the lower spring "Cup"...although both places affect the same part of the suspension if a jack is placed under either area).
Thanks for the reply. So..... I presume what you call the "knuckle" is the lower spring "cup" or spring "perch". Makes sense if so.....once the lower shock mount is disconnected, the amount of further lowering of the suspension, would be controlled by the jack under the spring perch. Going slow at that point in lowering, we should see if the flex brake line, or ABS sensor line....or things of that nature.... get to their limits of travel before the lower spring comes loose from its perch ( or not)...... thanks for the hints.
(LATER EDIT...OK....the "knuckle" is the extension past the lower shock mounting point ....the exposed portion toward the rear of the car. Seems a bit stronger to place a jack there vs under the lower spring "Cup"...although both places affect the same part of the suspension if a jack is placed under either area).
Last edited by IPSC; 06-03-2019 at 12:15 AM. Reason: clarity.
#4
You're welcome and I'm sorry I didn't first look at the diagram. I agree with your call that a jack can be placed under the perch or under the knuckle. Whichever location best prevents overextending the brake line and or sensor cable. Good luck with the repair.
#5
No need to be sorry...... I'm simply glad someone with knowledge and experience answered. I think the trick is finding how "loose" the spring becomes before the brake line or sensor cable gets stretched. Factory manual ( for spring *replacement*) tells us these areas ( brake line/sensor mounting points) have to be unscrewed.....which allows so much suspension drop that the spring can be removed by hand. Thanks again for answering.
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