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a true rear sway bar

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Old Jan 22, 2005 | 08:19 PM
  #21  
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Default Re: a true rear sway bar

Originally Posted by hornet_on_flower
i know how real sway bars work, but what and how does a rear beam axle stiffeners

actualy work

need to get me ed-u-ma-cated on that one
The rear axle beam stiffners prevent torsional twisting.
Old Jan 22, 2005 | 08:25 PM
  #22  
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Ok ... I will give this a shot ....

The difference between the rear axle stiffener and chassis mounted sway bar is just the difference between the suspension travel and the axle, or the suspension travel and the chassis.

The "sway bar" simply tries to reduce the difference in travel from each side of the car. As the left side moves up, the torsion of the sway bar slows the upward movement and tries to move the right side up to reduce the torsion of the sway bar.

The axle mounted sway bar attempt to keep the torsion equal on both side of the car in relation to the axle. The axle may or may not be aligned with the chassis at any given time. The chassis mounted sway bar attempt to keep the torsion equal on both side of the car in relation to the chassis. This type of configuration also helps to keep the axle more aligned to the chassis. True axle alignment is done through a panhard rod configuration.

The front sway bar follows the same rules.

I hope this helps.
Old Jan 22, 2005 | 08:36 PM
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On a swinging beam rear axle like on the xB, an axle stiffener and a separately-mounted sway bar are functionally equivelent.

The only difference is that the axle stiffener passes its load to the stock axle pivots while the separately-mounted sway bar passes its load to separate pivots mounted to the chassis.

The separate sway bar might work a bit better due to reduction in flexing of the axle pivots, but the tradeoff is a great increase in complexity (four to six pivots added, versus zero for the stiffener).

My feeling is that a stronger stabilizing effect could be had with less weight and complexity by simply boxing in the existing crossmember with sheet metal. Of course, this wouldn't look nearly as kewl as a bunch of add-on hardware!

George
Old Jan 22, 2005 | 10:36 PM
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which would put less stress on the frame/body and suspension
Old Jan 22, 2005 | 11:19 PM
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Because the suspension IS NOT tied into the frame, per say, this produces the "body roll", and only a proper rear sway bar can do this. Not a beam stiffner.
Old Jan 26, 2005 | 09:29 PM
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How would A real sway bar work on a xb would it work or would it be better to get rear Chassis Bar and a sort of beem stifener
Old Jan 26, 2005 | 09:31 PM
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i second that inquisition
Old Jan 27, 2005 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by George
My feeling is that a stronger stabilizing effect could be had with less weight and complexity by simply boxing in the existing crossmember with sheet metal. Of course, this wouldn't look nearly as kewl as a bunch of add-on hardware!

George
Exactly. Race shops have been doing this for years to torsion beam axle VW's. It works very well... Shine Racing Service even has a beam stiffener that bolts inside a VW's rear beam... no end links, nothing showing off. It's a great piece. I still prefer welding though.
Old Jan 27, 2005 | 09:06 PM
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hmmm , i never would of even guessed. to weld it in... hmm
Old Feb 2, 2005 | 06:48 PM
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why would you want a hollow tube for a front sway bar?

makes no sence to me
Old Feb 2, 2005 | 07:20 PM
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Here is an article that our engineer wrote about the hollow vs. solid sway bars.

http://www.hotchkistuning.com/bin/Mi...SwayTech-D.pdf

Hope this helps you out.
Old Feb 2, 2005 | 08:20 PM
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Ok, I was under the xB on saturday, looking and taking some measurements. I now know why there isn't a true rear sway bar.

One of the reason, the frame is too far away from the rear beam to be effective. The distance would kill any effectiveness. To be effective, it will add way too much weight to the car. And one of the big reasons, the gas tank is also in the way.
Old Feb 21, 2005 | 10:49 PM
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i just ordered my Progress Technology Rear Anti-Roll Bar/beam stiffener can't wait till i get it and install it
Old Feb 21, 2005 | 10:54 PM
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I guess the plan woul be to get the progress rear and box the rear beam , anyone know of a shop that would box it in?
Old Feb 21, 2005 | 11:25 PM
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i don't think boxing the rear would be a good choice...
you would have to box the whole thing, including around the corners.
if you did not box the whole thing it would get stress cracks at the end of the boxed in area....
boxing it in would virtually make it unbendable...not good for handling. it does need to flex some...
Old Feb 21, 2005 | 11:36 PM
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i'm keeping it simple on a budget here
Old Feb 21, 2005 | 11:55 PM
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Originally Posted by dgHotLava
i don't think boxing the rear would be a good choice...
you would have to box the whole thing, including around the corners.
if you did not box the whole thing it would get stress cracks at the end of the boxed in area....
boxing it in would virtually make it unbendable...not good for handling. it does need to flex some...
Yeah but if it's a common vw/porsche thing it cant be too bad , I have to read up and get more info , I'll be checking some veedub/porsche sites tonight I will chime in again once I have been enlightened.
Old Feb 22, 2005 | 02:32 AM
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i'm trying to remember my VW 's...
i think the VW is a smaller axle. so it might suit that better....

our rear beam has a pretty wide opening...boxing that in might be too much....

please check and let us know...
Old Feb 22, 2005 | 02:48 AM
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I agree, boxing the xB rear beam would make it too rigid, and who knows what problems w/ fatigue on other parts of the car it will effect.

The only real solution, remove spare tire and add a nice 15 gallon fuel cell in the rear area, and add a four link rear suspension.
Old Feb 22, 2005 | 02:56 AM
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Originally Posted by squirrel
I agree, boxing the xB rear beam would make it too rigid, and who knows what problems w/ fatigue on other parts of the car it will effect.

The only real solution, remove spare tire and add a nice 15 gallon fuel cell in the rear area, and add a four link rear suspension.
i like that idea.....
but make it a 20 gallon and a true 4-link not a 4-bar setup...

thats a good mod...



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