I did a search and could not find any info.

I have noticed that to get the clutch to fully engage that I have to slam it to the floor board. I know that with my Hondas in the past that you can adjust the clutch pedal to give you less play in the pedal.

Is there a way to tighten the cable. I looked under the hood and I think that I found the clutch cable on the back side of the motor on the bottom. It looks like some gold plate is around the end of it.

Do I just need to take it to the dealer and have them look at it. Dont really want to cause they are so damn expensive.

Thanks,
Mark D

 

no idea, but ill bump your thread for you

 

thanks............anybody??????

 

does the tC have a cable or hydralic actuated clutch fork? The Honda was hydralic as of 1996 - present.. unless bleeding was required the way it felt was it. which i didn't care for.. the cable you may be looking at is the cable that connects the shift level to the transmission (since it's not a rod like the civic's used to be to shift the transmission)..

 

I've got the same problem, the clutch is starting to make a hole in my floormat

 

well i called the dealer and they told me that it is a hydralic clutch and can not be adjusted. Other than they can adjust the pedal. But only the top part of the pedal cause the bottom part of the pedal is not covered under the warranty.

Just thought I would let everyone know.

Peace,
Mark D

 

There is always a way. I haven't really looked at the xB yet but every other hydraulic clutch I've seen has a push rod on that seats into the clutch slave cylinder which actuates the clutch fork. A common issues the Mazda KL series engines when switching to a aluminum flywheel is that you need a little more movement in the actual clutch some times. You can just take the rod out of the slave cylinder and put in a longer one. Most people will get a grade 8 bolt that is the same diameter and cut the head off to make a new push rod. You usually don't need it to be a lot longer 1/16 an inch longer is usually enough. You do have to be careful and not go too long and hurt something. I would say buy a few bolts and cut them to different lengths and us the shortest one that works.

Another thing to try is to replace the flexible line from the master cylinder to the slave with a braided stainless steel line. The less the line bulges the more it well be able to force fluid to the slave cylinder. That is assuming of course that the slave has not hit an internal stop and it really is the floor that is getting in the way.

Of course you should bleed the system first just to make sure your not running into wet fluid or a small air pocket.

 

I just found one of the better write ups on probetalk where some one did this. The basic principle should be the same for all hydraulic cluthes. He went almost a quater inch but he is also running a new clutch and pressure plate. I'm sure you'll have to experiment witht the length
http://forums.probetalk.com/showthre...ave+rod+length

 

It's not so much adjusting the clutch that you need to do as adjusting the "freeplay". The dealership may have been mislead by the question you posed, but generally both cable and hydraulic clutches can have their freeplay adjusted. If you look under the dash at the clutch pedal you may notice it's most likely not connecting to a straight rod through the firewall. you may see something like this




This is generally the adjustment fitting for hydraulic clutches, although I haven't looked at a TC clutch to be sure. There are nuts on either side of the bracket piece depicted by the red | | that get loosened then the bolt like piece depicted by the ___ in the center can be adjusted.

 

XaGuyDE is absolutly right about the free play. Which upon retrospect is probably what you meant. I was defently talking more about the actual clutch throw, which will change the pedal's engament point in addition to the the actuall amount of clutch movement.

Definetly go with adjustting the freeplay and bleeding the system before you do anything more radical.

 

I've owned quite a few Toyotas and adjusting the clutch free play was always very easy.

Loosen the nut on the end of the push rod (behind the pedal) and then spin the push rod by hand. Spinning it one way will raise the pedal; the other way will lower it. You should be able to tell after a couple of turns which way you need to turn it. When you're done, tighten the nut. Done.

I just looked at my xB and it looks like it uses the same kind of adjustment that my Toyota's have all had.