Best mpg xB
Yes, ATF = automatic transmission fluid. A quick web search finds you don't need to change ATF on Scions any more. Ah, the wonders of technology.
Other causes of poor coasting: sticking brakes and low tire inflation pressure. Jack up your box on each corner and spin the wheel/tire. Sticking brakes mean you won't even get one tire rotation when you spin the tire. I inflate my tires to maximum sidewall pressure (46 or 51 psi). That makes a real difference in coasting compared to the mfr recommendations in the door or glove box, which are intended for mushy soft rides.
Other causes of poor coasting: sticking brakes and low tire inflation pressure. Jack up your box on each corner and spin the wheel/tire. Sticking brakes mean you won't even get one tire rotation when you spin the tire. I inflate my tires to maximum sidewall pressure (46 or 51 psi). That makes a real difference in coasting compared to the mfr recommendations in the door or glove box, which are intended for mushy soft rides.
I think my trans fluid should be changed soon though. I'm getting near 100k.
-AJ, I recommend 40 PSI all around, ride is still good.
I think I have gotten lucky, people say my car rolls really well.
I don't need the gas that much in town at all. I would say on a street the gas could be used 25% and coast the other 75% of the street easily.
-Sentra, You should look into a set of lightweight wheels, take off will take less effort especially when weight is taken from the wheels.
They do have green Daylites (5.4kg/wheel).


-AJ, I recommend 40 PSI all around, ride is still good.
I think I have gotten lucky, people say my car rolls really well.
I don't need the gas that much in town at all. I would say on a street the gas could be used 25% and coast the other 75% of the street easily.
-Sentra, You should look into a set of lightweight wheels, take off will take less effort especially when weight is taken from the wheels.
They do have green Daylites (5.4kg/wheel).
Thanks for all the helpful information. I will try out the sticky brakes idea and test my tire pressure too. I usually do a visual check to see if anything is bulging at the base of the tire and they always look uniform around the entire tire. Thanks again.
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Fail, INC
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So lately I havent been driving the box much...

But Ive been roughly averaging around 23 mixed in the Escalade ESV. not bad for an overgrown 6.0 liter AWD monster

But Ive been roughly averaging around 23 mixed in the Escalade ESV. not bad for an overgrown 6.0 liter AWD monster
turning ur car of at a red light and starting then going is bad for ur motor no time for u oil to build up hybrids have a different oil lines with ck valves plus oil psi builds as the electric motor kicks in. ur cams and berings need this oil in idle time to cool down. i think in the long run ur cutting ur self short. but just my 2cnt as a toyota tec.
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Fail, INC
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So I have been commuting the xB for the last couple weeks... 512.4 out of 10.8 gallons is 47.4 MPG
And to think I was looking at a Prius last month when I went to pick up some parts. hahaha
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Fail, INC
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When your only running on 3 cylinders weird things happen... (I have a dead coil pack)
And it came along when I figured I needed a vehicle to tow the 24 Hours of Lemons car, and seeing as how a two year old Tundra and a three year old Escalade were the same price ($21000) it was a tough decision...
And it came along when I figured I needed a vehicle to tow the 24 Hours of Lemons car, and seeing as how a two year old Tundra and a three year old Escalade were the same price ($21000) it was a tough decision...
I used to routinely get 35-38 mpg on my commute to work at home. Once I got 43 mpg on a trip from Columbia SC to Orlando FL. I did the hypermiling thing just for fun but it's too much like work.
Just stick with good, basic common sense driving techniques and you can save fuel, money, and you won't be late for work.
FWIW, I have routinely got 23-25 mpg on long trips in my 2009 Dodge Ram Hemi. I keep my cruise set 5 mph lower than the posted speed limit on the Interstate and hang in the right lane. And yes, this is confirmed mileage with a calibrated Scanguage.
Just stick with good, basic common sense driving techniques and you can save fuel, money, and you won't be late for work.
FWIW, I have routinely got 23-25 mpg on long trips in my 2009 Dodge Ram Hemi. I keep my cruise set 5 mph lower than the posted speed limit on the Interstate and hang in the right lane. And yes, this is confirmed mileage with a calibrated Scanguage.
My Scion's been parked for the past couple of months while I've been on the road, but my hypermiling continues. I averaged 38.9 mpg on my SE-R for 2000 miles from the Bay Area to Albuquerque and San Diego and home this Spring. I averaged 43.7 mpg in a rental AT Kia Rio from ABQ to MN, IA, MT, & ID - nearly 3600 miles. If I throw out two outlier tanks where I was fighting >40 mph crosswinds, I averaged >45 mpg in the Kia.
Hypermiling isn't work. It's a real-life video game where every gallon I save is a couple more bucks in my wallet, a total of over $1460 for my two cars (compared to getting the EPA combined mpg), not to mention the rest of the miles I've hypermiled in rental cars and my wife's car.
Hypermiling isn't work. It's a real-life video game where every gallon I save is a couple more bucks in my wallet, a total of over $1460 for my two cars (compared to getting the EPA combined mpg), not to mention the rest of the miles I've hypermiled in rental cars and my wife's car.
Last edited by SentraSE-R; Jul 5, 2010 at 10:59 PM.
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My xB averaged 81 MPG today...
not impressive when you factor in that on a trailer behind the escalade for 59.2 miles @ 11 MPTPG (miles per tow pig gallon)...
Alternator gave out on me today on my way to a family bbq at my uncles... thankfully I was able to limp it there and then get a ride home to get the truck
not impressive when you factor in that on a trailer behind the escalade for 59.2 miles @ 11 MPTPG (miles per tow pig gallon)...
Alternator gave out on me today on my way to a family bbq at my uncles... thankfully I was able to limp it there and then get a ride home to get the truck
My Scion's been parked for the past couple of months while I've been on the road, but my hypermiling continues. I averaged 38.9 mpg on my SE-R for 2000 miles from the Bay Area to Albuquerque and San Diego and home this Spring. I averaged 43.7 mpg in a rental AT Kia Rio from ABQ to MN, IA, MT, & ID - nearly 3600 miles. If I throw out two outlier tanks where I was fighting >40 mph crosswinds, I averaged >45 mpg in the Kia.
Hypermiling isn't work. It's a real-life video game where every gallon I save is a couple more bucks in my wallet, a total of over $1460 for my two cars (compared to getting the EPA combined mpg), not to mention the rest of the miles I've hypermiled in rental cars and my wife's car.
Hypermiling isn't work. It's a real-life video game where every gallon I save is a couple more bucks in my wallet, a total of over $1460 for my two cars (compared to getting the EPA combined mpg), not to mention the rest of the miles I've hypermiled in rental cars and my wife's car.
With that said, I applaud you for your hypermiling efforts. And you're right, the money saved stays right in your pocket.
My OEM battery failed while I was gone in May/June. I took 3 people w/me to the CA State Fair last week & averaged 50.3 mpg going there, & 48 mpg coming back. Then I noticed my fuel gauge was at the 1/2 mark, but my trip odometer was only showing 180 miles. It's usually showing 250-280 miles when the gauge reaches 1/2. I realized the trip odometers had zeroed when the battery went dead. I normally leave my odometer on one of its trip odometers. When I got it back with its new battery, it was on the main odometer. I thought the shop had done it, but now realize it defaults to the main odometer with a months-long dead battery.
So I had to start a new tank in my mileage log, since I don't record main odometer readings.
So I had to start a new tank in my mileage log, since I don't record main odometer readings.
And people wonder why I have a solar panel on my dash board plugged into a full time powered up cigarette adapter. All them little remote control dodads drain the battery a little every day . . . light dimmers and remote door openers and a little for the ECU to keep it thinking.
I just hit 35k on my 06xB and noticed after a trip to Vermont and the Cape (Cod) that my idle fuel burn rate at night with lights on has dropped from 0.20-0.18 down to 0.16gph.
I just hit 35k on my 06xB and noticed after a trip to Vermont and the Cape (Cod) that my idle fuel burn rate at night with lights on has dropped from 0.20-0.18 down to 0.16gph.
A solar trickle charger might have helped me, but I think my OEM battery's time had simply come, at 4+ years after leaving the factory.
I just finished a warm air intake project, and will be doing final testing this week. Initial testing with the uninsulated WAI showed only a 25 degree intake temperature rise, and no significant mpg improvement. Now it's insulated, and we'll see if it works. The theory is warm air is less dense, and needs less gas to burn at the stochiometric ratio - essentially the opposite operating theory of a cold air intake.
Below: WAI taped over OEM air intake horn.

Below: WAI intake simulating original intake position behind radiator, for original A testing.

Below: New air intake position assuring intake air flows over exhaust manifold, and is heated maximally.

Below: Completed WAI is insulated with fiberglass over 3" metal flex tubing.
I just finished a warm air intake project, and will be doing final testing this week. Initial testing with the uninsulated WAI showed only a 25 degree intake temperature rise, and no significant mpg improvement. Now it's insulated, and we'll see if it works. The theory is warm air is less dense, and needs less gas to burn at the stochiometric ratio - essentially the opposite operating theory of a cold air intake.
Below: WAI taped over OEM air intake horn.

Below: WAI intake simulating original intake position behind radiator, for original A testing.

Below: New air intake position assuring intake air flows over exhaust manifold, and is heated maximally.

Below: Completed WAI is insulated with fiberglass over 3" metal flex tubing.
My Opinion...
WAI...a bad idea in my book....colder condensed air is best for milage and performace
adding warm air should degrade your performance.
I'm interested in what you find out though
WAI...a bad idea in my book....colder condensed air is best for milage and performace
adding warm air should degrade your performance.
I'm interested in what you find out though
A WAI will degrade performance by causing a lean burn condition. RUnning lean is not good for performance but really good for Fuel Economy. So there begins a major trade off between wanting to drive fast or tricking your ECU to help you save gas ...
And before you begin asking if its worth it ... those of us who DIY and shade tree to save MPG's are eventually heard and our efforts help shape future technology that makes these efforts .. effortless in future vehicles ...
Take VW for example, their newest hybrid shuts down the gas engine each time you remove your foot from the gas, not just at stops which will help bolster MPG's for their vehicle. SImilar technology is coming to all manufacturers, all of which came from the "nuts" that P&G on the highway with our engines off ..
I however am dissapointed in our hybrid tech, because I have an xD, whose highway mileage doesn't drop below, 47mpg on any given day with inner city trips exceeding 50mpg, all out of an ICE wrapped around the xD body and thousands less than any hybrid ...





