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Engine blue light mistake by mechanic
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Senior Member
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 134
Engine blue light mistake by mechanic
My xB passed its first state safety inspection yesterday (Pennsylvania). However, the mechanic misunderstood the warmup light to mean "low washer fluid". He said that he topped off the washer fluid but the light was still on and maybe I had a bad sensor.
So I explained to him that the blue light indicates that the engine is cold (actually under 140 F), and that the red light indicates too hot. This was news to him as this was his first Scion to inspect. At least my washer fluid was topped off for free.
But I was concerned because another part of the Pennsylvania inspection is for tailpipe emissions, and a cold engine will not perform as well on that test as a fully-warmed up one. The car passed the emission test, of course, but as it ages a similar mistake by a mechanic could be costly for a false failure in emissions testing or his troubleshooting time for a non-problem.
Has anyone else had similar experiences? I actually like the blue light function, since it's nice to know when I can ask a little more of the engine.
So I explained to him that the blue light indicates that the engine is cold (actually under 140 F), and that the red light indicates too hot. This was news to him as this was his first Scion to inspect. At least my washer fluid was topped off for free.
But I was concerned because another part of the Pennsylvania inspection is for tailpipe emissions, and a cold engine will not perform as well on that test as a fully-warmed up one. The car passed the emission test, of course, but as it ages a similar mistake by a mechanic could be costly for a false failure in emissions testing or his troubleshooting time for a non-problem.
Has anyone else had similar experiences? I actually like the blue light function, since it's nice to know when I can ask a little more of the engine.
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 14,570
From: University Place, WA
Here in Washington state they recommend on the emissions web pages and on the mail-out form that when going for an emessions test get the engine up to full operating temperature first in order to get a proper test.
Also, in this state, 1996 or later cars are 'emission tested' using the built-in on-board OBD2 diagnostics.
Even with the OBD2 testing, though, the engine needs to have been running long enough for the internal diagnostics to have finished their checks:
They also have this note:
It also helps keeping the OBD2 diagnostics from having to start over. 
(We don't have annual "safety" inspections here...)
We recommend a 15-minute drive on the freeway to bring your vehicle to normal operating temperature. It is important that your vehicle's engine and catalytic converter be at normal operating temperature to avoid unnecessary failure.
If your vehicle has OBD, the lane operator at the test station will plug in a cable to the
vehicle’s computer connection (usually located in front of the driver’s feet) to download
emission-related information. This has no effect on the vehicle.
If your vehicle does not have OBD, or has a type of OBD system that has problems with OBD
testing, the lane operator will do a tailpipe test. For a tailpipe test, the operator inserts a probe
into the tailpipe while the engine is running, to sample air pollutant levels.
vehicle’s computer connection (usually located in front of the driver’s feet) to download
emission-related information. This has no effect on the vehicle.
If your vehicle does not have OBD, or has a type of OBD system that has problems with OBD
testing, the lane operator will do a tailpipe test. For a tailpipe test, the operator inserts a probe
into the tailpipe while the engine is running, to sample air pollutant levels.
Before an OBD test can be done, most of the emission control system monitors have to complete their
checks of the emission control equipment. Depending on the age of your vehicle, if one or two monitors have
not yet completed their checks, the vehicle is “not ready” for an OBD test. If this happens, you will need to
drive your vehicle further to allow these monitors to finish testing the equipment. The amount and type of
driving needed varies according to the vehicle. You may need to check with your dealer, repair facility, or
Ecology for the specific drive cycle for your vehicle.
checks of the emission control equipment. Depending on the age of your vehicle, if one or two monitors have
not yet completed their checks, the vehicle is “not ready” for an OBD test. If this happens, you will need to
drive your vehicle further to allow these monitors to finish testing the equipment. The amount and type of
driving needed varies according to the vehicle. You may need to check with your dealer, repair facility, or
Ecology for the specific drive cycle for your vehicle.
While in line, do not shut off the engine. This helps keep the engine at normal operating temperature.
(We don't have annual "safety" inspections here...)
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 466
From: Suburban Philadelphia
Pennsylvania emissions tests are usually done at the same time as the safety inspection (both annually), and it's mostly private garages that are licensed to do the inspections. So you usually leave your car there for the day, or sit and wait. There's no drive-through testing.
But the tests vary according to the age and type of the car. New cars generally need only the OBD test (readout from the onboard computer) and a check of the gas cap.
Older cars, especially in urban areas, may need a tailpipe test and a dynamometer test.
RichC
But the tests vary according to the age and type of the car. New cars generally need only the OBD test (readout from the onboard computer) and a check of the gas cap.
Older cars, especially in urban areas, may need a tailpipe test and a dynamometer test.
RichC
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