Pictures of Boxcar Willie, my 2005 xB
Originally Posted by TJandBOXCARWILLIE
Originally Posted by McBain
Please tell us why an oil cap and battery holder are listed under performance items? Most of the items you have listed as performance are questionable.
The word means, in one way, the way in which a machine (or other thing) performs or functions: So, in that sense of the word, the following items, do indeed, help the car perform, or function, better then stock:
AEM Cold Air Intake, and the Borla Exhaust System, helps makes the car move faster then the stock car
Front Strut Tie Bar, made by Hotchkis, helps keep the now moving faster then stock car stay steady
AEM Billet Oil Cap, helps keep the oil in the now moving faster then stock car engine; (the stock oil cap is PLASTIC, and here in SOUTH FLORIDA, prone to warping and cracking under heat)
TRD Quickshifter, helps move the now moving faster then stock car, through the gears smoother, more efficiently
TRD Lowering Springs, helps keep the now moving faster then stock car, since it's lower center of gravity helps hug the road better then stock height did
Krom 205/50R16x7 115 Chrome Alloy Rims, and the Kumho ECSTA 711 Tires help the now moving faster then stock car, by being lighter (the allow rims), and by allowing the car to stick to the road with wider tires.
The only two things, that don't really 'aid' in the performance of the now moving faster then stock car, are the xB AEI Custom SCION Battery Tie Down, and Rostra Cruise Control, I will admit. But they get listed there for no other reason that they have no other category to put them in.
So there you go. Thanks for stopping by the thread! Have a great day!
The strut bar is also questionable, do you have any proof that the chassis is in need of additional support? so probably all you are doing is adding extra weight to slow the car down...
Battery holder is for looks, no other value, probably more weight, but your wallet is lighter..
The shifter makes sense, but it is not more efficient as you shortened the leverage of the shifter which makes it harder to move, but it does make for faster shifts.
Your wheels and tires might be lighter, but the larger size will hurt you on acceleration. The lighter mass willl help the handling of unsprung weight. The wider tires will also affect rolling resistance , yet slowing you down even more.. But they do look much nicer than stock...
The aftermarket oil cap will only help by making your wallet lighter... It does nothing else for performance... The stock cap is fine regardless of where you live... think for a change... If the engine block is 180 degrees or more, how is the Florida ambient tempeture of 100 degrees or so affect anything?
But keep posting.... its good for something
Thread Starter
Senior Member



Fail, INC
SL Member
Scion Evolution
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,350
From: Here at my desk...
Hey, thanks for coming into my photo thread, and knocking it around. Really, you picked the right one, since I live to debate folks, who seem to think they know it all…
It's fun!
Oh, and I see by your profile, you are a 'future' SCION owner. So, if that is true, you really have no idea what you are talking about, when it comes to this car.
But a debate is a debate; I'll try to go easy on you.
Not true, not true at all. The CAI has increased the speed, the ability to move this little car. The Borla, true, while it makes a great sound, it also aids in removing the exhaust in a much more efficient way then the stock small enclosed exhaust system... To some the gains are small, but nonetheless, they are there.
No, again, you are wrong. You talk as if you drove this car; did you? I don't remember handing you the keys, and letting you take it for a spin.
See, after the CAI and BORLA, the car, when accelerating around curves, (or corners), would 'stutter' so to speak. The front end would want to move in a way that the standard stock shape would not allow for. The strut bar, (you know, designed by engineers who took into account what the gain in acceleration would do to the car), actually keeps the car moving smooth now, when accelerating around curves, off ramps, that sort of thing.
Now, I know this may be hard for you to grasp, but since I drove the car before and after the addition of the strut bar, I have the proof that I need. And, oh, BTW, the strut bar does not weigh that much. Something, isn't it? Modern technology…
My gawd. Are you serious? Can you read? Wait. That would seem possible, since you are on the internet… Did you miss the part, where I mentioned, that listing that part in the performance section, was (more or less), a joke? You must be kidding, right?
However. If you want to take it seriously, I will too. So, in response to this post, I went out and (since I have the stock battery tie down), and weighed both the stock tie down and the one I put on. And the one I put on…is lighter. By .02 grams! So, it will improve performance after all! It's lighter then stock! Thus making the car move that much more.
(If you can be serious about stupid stuff, so can I)
Again, wrong. Do you even know what the TRD shifter is? It moves easier, you know. Not harder. It has nothing to do with the height of the shifter. If anything, the TRD is a tad shorter then stock. Maybe a tiny bit. But the TRD is there to shorten the THROW of the shift. It no longer takes as much effort to shift. Again, since you have no SCION, (that I know of), you debate this as a blind man would, if describing how Pamela Anderson would look like to him. You can guess what she looks like, but you don't really know how she really looks.
Again, you know nothing of what you speak. I'm sorry, but really, you come across that way. The stock sized wheels are 15". And made of steel. At least the ones that were on my car at first. Then I moved to after market alloy wheels, which were stock height, but not stock width. A bit wider then stock. The tires on the car, remained the same. The wheels were, of course, lighter then stock. Thus, the car moved faster, and still suffered little loss in MPG.
I know this, because I keep a journal of my mileage. And, again, I drove the car before and after the change in wheels; you did not.
However, the new ones that I just put on? They are the same overall circumference as the stock wheel; how? Well, the tire is a ½ an inch less then stock; the wheel is a ½ inch bigger then stock. Thus, (and I know this, because I place the stock sized wheel next to the new 16" one), the height did not change. The new wheels are wider, by a bit…and the new tires are wider as well.
However: I'll ask you this: if wider tires slow down cars, then I would suppose that racing slicks on race cars would be rail thin, right? I will admit, that the wider tire grips more of the road, but not so much as to slow this car down. We are not talking a significant increase in width in tire size.
I do think, thanks, but you don't seem to. Go on, though…
Again, you know nothing. First, have you ever put a thermometer in a engine compartment of car? I have. And here in SOUTH FLORIDA, (which, BTW, has never recorded a day over 100 degrees), the ambient temperature under a hood (not engine heat), can easily reach 180+ on a hot day; then factor in how plastic can, over time, crack, and warp in higher heat. That result should be obvious.
Also, what you fail to factor in, is SALT. Here at the beach, we have a lot of salt. I live right on the ocean. I have to wash the car almost every day; if I don't, the salt will eat the car up.
The salt, also gets everywhere. Even if you live more inland, away from the coast, it travels well. And salt, combined with the extra heat that South Florida has, makes for plastic nightmares. I have seen the result up close and personal on a 1992 Ford Festiva I had with a plastic oil cap. It cracked, albeit slightly, due to the high heat. And, this brought about a small oil leak on top of the engine, that I caught, so I replaced the cap with an alloy one. No problems with oil leakage afterwards. If I had not caught it, it would have lead to damage.
The only reason that cap cracked was the combination of salt and heat. Engine heat has nothing to do with oil caps and cracking. Unless you have a problem with your engine. And, for those who live in areas with less salt and heat, you probably will never have this problem. But for about $20, I got a oil cap, that will be like preventive maintenance. And it looks good as well.
You to. And you know what, I don't really care, one way or the other, if you think I am right or wrong. At the end of the day, I know I am right, when it comes to this car, and it's mods.
What you do, or don't do, with your future SCION, is up to you. However, I do hope you gain some important knowledge about cars, especially this brand of car, before you continue to knock it.
Remember, it's the internet. You could be arguing with a teenager, or an adult with over thirty years of experience with cars. Who has owned more then 33 cars, and spent a bit of time under the hoods of them.
No way to know, right? So have a great day, and thanks for bumping up my thread to the top!
It's fun!
Oh, and I see by your profile, you are a 'future' SCION owner. So, if that is true, you really have no idea what you are talking about, when it comes to this car.
But a debate is a debate; I'll try to go easy on you.
Originally Posted by McBain
The intake and borla are more for noise than anything else.. especially the cat-back exhaust. The intake might make a very slight improvement in airflow, but nothing woth mentioning. The catback is for looks and sound it does nothing more.
The strut bar is also questionable, do you have any proof that the chassis is in need of additional support? so probably all you are doing is adding extra weight to slow the car down...
See, after the CAI and BORLA, the car, when accelerating around curves, (or corners), would 'stutter' so to speak. The front end would want to move in a way that the standard stock shape would not allow for. The strut bar, (you know, designed by engineers who took into account what the gain in acceleration would do to the car), actually keeps the car moving smooth now, when accelerating around curves, off ramps, that sort of thing.
Now, I know this may be hard for you to grasp, but since I drove the car before and after the addition of the strut bar, I have the proof that I need. And, oh, BTW, the strut bar does not weigh that much. Something, isn't it? Modern technology…
Battery holder is for looks, no other value, probably more weight, but your wallet is lighter..
However. If you want to take it seriously, I will too. So, in response to this post, I went out and (since I have the stock battery tie down), and weighed both the stock tie down and the one I put on. And the one I put on…is lighter. By .02 grams! So, it will improve performance after all! It's lighter then stock! Thus making the car move that much more.
(If you can be serious about stupid stuff, so can I)
The shifter makes sense, but it is not more efficient as you shortened the leverage of the shifter which makes it harder to move, but it does make for faster shifts.
Your wheels and tires might be lighter, but the larger size will hurt you on acceleration. The lighter mass willl help the handling of unsprung weight. The wider tires will also affect rolling resistance , yet slowing you down even more..
I know this, because I keep a journal of my mileage. And, again, I drove the car before and after the change in wheels; you did not.
However, the new ones that I just put on? They are the same overall circumference as the stock wheel; how? Well, the tire is a ½ an inch less then stock; the wheel is a ½ inch bigger then stock. Thus, (and I know this, because I place the stock sized wheel next to the new 16" one), the height did not change. The new wheels are wider, by a bit…and the new tires are wider as well.
However: I'll ask you this: if wider tires slow down cars, then I would suppose that racing slicks on race cars would be rail thin, right? I will admit, that the wider tire grips more of the road, but not so much as to slow this car down. We are not talking a significant increase in width in tire size.
The aftermarket oil cap will only help by making your wallet lighter... It does nothing else for performance... The stock cap is fine regardless of where you live... think for a change
... If the engine block is 180 degrees or more, how is the Florida ambient tempeture of 100 degrees or so affect anything?
Also, what you fail to factor in, is SALT. Here at the beach, we have a lot of salt. I live right on the ocean. I have to wash the car almost every day; if I don't, the salt will eat the car up.
The salt, also gets everywhere. Even if you live more inland, away from the coast, it travels well. And salt, combined with the extra heat that South Florida has, makes for plastic nightmares. I have seen the result up close and personal on a 1992 Ford Festiva I had with a plastic oil cap. It cracked, albeit slightly, due to the high heat. And, this brought about a small oil leak on top of the engine, that I caught, so I replaced the cap with an alloy one. No problems with oil leakage afterwards. If I had not caught it, it would have lead to damage.
The only reason that cap cracked was the combination of salt and heat. Engine heat has nothing to do with oil caps and cracking. Unless you have a problem with your engine. And, for those who live in areas with less salt and heat, you probably will never have this problem. But for about $20, I got a oil cap, that will be like preventive maintenance. And it looks good as well.
But keep posting.... its good for something
What you do, or don't do, with your future SCION, is up to you. However, I do hope you gain some important knowledge about cars, especially this brand of car, before you continue to knock it.
Remember, it's the internet. You could be arguing with a teenager, or an adult with over thirty years of experience with cars. Who has owned more then 33 cars, and spent a bit of time under the hoods of them.
No way to know, right? So have a great day, and thanks for bumping up my thread to the top!
While my car is bone-dead-dry stock I propose a "show me" scion eraser race
both are automatics controlled by identical computers
we'd make a drag on the Interstate! Nothing illegal, fat-headed or immoral.
Propose we enter on a straight entry ramp, me behind you by a hundred or more feet. mash pedals on two-way radio signal
GO from 0 to 55 on up the entrance ramp. See if you pull away or whether I close in!
same time, same place, same auto trans. Ecept that mine is bone stock and lighter in weight by a hundred pounds (???) or so of gear and add-ons
IT won't really prove a -thing-
unless my tight, new low milage RS happens to decisively fail to keep up!
or vice-versa!
perhaps some time when traffic's light.
Is there any such time? Meet at 3 AM some place on a weeknight?
Got a pair of two-ways radios?
Who'll adjudge? Equal passenger weight makes parity.
We can do multiple runs... never breaking speed limit nor risking public safety
not a race! just keep MY pace as I go
fast or faster.
whooosh! OK if I put a plastic prop on my rear wiper shaft?
TJ! dander shall not fly between -us-
both are automatics controlled by identical computers
we'd make a drag on the Interstate! Nothing illegal, fat-headed or immoral.
Propose we enter on a straight entry ramp, me behind you by a hundred or more feet. mash pedals on two-way radio signal
GO from 0 to 55 on up the entrance ramp. See if you pull away or whether I close in!
same time, same place, same auto trans. Ecept that mine is bone stock and lighter in weight by a hundred pounds (???) or so of gear and add-ons
IT won't really prove a -thing-
unless my tight, new low milage RS happens to decisively fail to keep up!
or vice-versa!
perhaps some time when traffic's light.
Is there any such time? Meet at 3 AM some place on a weeknight?
Got a pair of two-ways radios?
Who'll adjudge? Equal passenger weight makes parity.
We can do multiple runs... never breaking speed limit nor risking public safety
not a race! just keep MY pace as I go
whooosh! OK if I put a plastic prop on my rear wiper shaft?
TJ! dander shall not fly between -us-
Originally Posted by TJandBOXCARWILLIE
Hey, thanks for coming into my photo thread, and knocking it around. Really, you picked the right one, since I live to debate folks, who seem to think they know it all…
It's fun!
Oh, and I see by your profile, you are a 'future' SCION owner. So, if that is true, you really have no idea what you are talking about, when it comes to this car.
But a debate is a debate; I'll try to go easy on you.
Not true, not true at all. The CAI has increased the speed, the ability to move this little car. The Borla, true, while it makes a great sound, it also aids in removing the exhaust in a much more efficient way then the stock small enclosed exhaust system... To some the gains are small, but nonetheless, they are there.
No, again, you are wrong. You talk as if you drove this car; did you? I don't remember handing you the keys, and letting you take it for a spin.
See, after the CAI and BORLA, the car, when accelerating around curves, (or corners), would 'stutter' so to speak. The front end would want to move in a way that the standard stock shape would not allow for. The strut bar, (you know, designed by engineers who took into account what the gain in acceleration would do to the car), actually keeps the car moving smooth now, when accelerating around curves, off ramps, that sort of thing.
Now, I know this may be hard for you to grasp, but since I drove the car before and after the addition of the strut bar, I have the proof that I need. And, oh, BTW, the strut bar does not weigh that much. Something, isn't it? Modern technology…
My gawd. Are you serious? Can you read? Wait. That would seem possible, since you are on the internet… Did you miss the part, where I mentioned, that listing that part in the performance section, was (more or less), a joke? You must be kidding, right?
However. If you want to take it seriously, I will too. So, in response to this post, I went out and (since I have the stock battery tie down), and weighed both the stock tie down and the one I put on. And the one I put on…is lighter. By .02 grams! So, it will improve performance after all! It's lighter then stock! Thus making the car move that much more.
(If you can be serious about stupid stuff, so can I)
Again, wrong. Do you even know what the TRD shifter is? It moves easier, you know. Not harder. It has nothing to do with the height of the shifter. If anything, the TRD is a tad shorter then stock. Maybe a tiny bit. But the TRD is there to shorten the THROW of the shift. It no longer takes as much effort to shift. Again, since you have no SCION, (that I know of), you debate this as a blind man would, if describing how Pamela Anderson would look like to him. You can guess what she looks like, but you don't really know how she really looks.
Again, you know nothing of what you speak. I'm sorry, but really, you come across that way. The stock sized wheels are 15". And made of steel. At least the ones that were on my car at first. Then I moved to after market alloy wheels, which were stock height, but not stock width. A bit wider then stock. The tires on the car, remained the same. The wheels were, of course, lighter then stock. Thus, the car moved faster, and still suffered little loss in MPG.
I know this, because I keep a journal of my mileage. And, again, I drove the car before and after the change in wheels; you did not.
However, the new ones that I just put on? They are the same overall circumference as the stock wheel; how? Well, the tire is a ½ an inch less then stock; the wheel is a ½ inch bigger then stock. Thus, (and I know this, because I place the stock sized wheel next to the new 16" one), the height did not change. The new wheels are wider, by a bit…and the new tires are wider as well.
However: I'll ask you this: if wider tires slow down cars, then I would suppose that racing slicks on race cars would be rail thin, right? I will admit, that the wider tire grips more of the road, but not so much as to slow this car down. We are not talking a significant increase in width in tire size.
I do think, thanks, but you don't seem to. Go on, though…
Again, you know nothing. First, have you ever put a thermometer in a engine compartment of car? I have. And here in SOUTH FLORIDA, (which, BTW, has never recorded a day over 100 degrees), the ambient temperature under a hood (not engine heat), can easily reach 180+ on a hot day; then factor in how plastic can, over time, crack, and warp in higher heat. That result should be obvious.
Also, what you fail to factor in, is SALT. Here at the beach, we have a lot of salt. I live right on the ocean. I have to wash the car almost every day; if I don't, the salt will eat the car up.
The salt, also gets everywhere. Even if you live more inland, away from the coast, it travels well. And salt, combined with the extra heat that South Florida has, makes for plastic nightmares. I have seen the result up close and personal on a 1992 Ford Festiva I had with a plastic oil cap. It cracked, albeit slightly, due to the high heat. And, this brought about a small oil leak on top of the engine, that I caught, so I replaced the cap with an alloy one. No problems with oil leakage afterwards. If I had not caught it, it would have lead to damage.
The only reason that cap cracked was the combination of salt and heat. Engine heat has nothing to do with oil caps and cracking. Unless you have a problem with your engine. And, for those who live in areas with less salt and heat, you probably will never have this problem. But for about $20, I got a oil cap, that will be like preventive maintenance. And it looks good as well.
You to. And you know what, I don't really care, one way or the other, if you think I am right or wrong. At the end of the day, I know I am right, when it comes to this car, and it's mods.
What you do, or don't do, with your future SCION, is up to you. However, I do hope you gain some important knowledge about cars, especially this brand of car, before you continue to knock it.
Remember, it's the internet. You could be arguing with a teenager, or an adult with over thirty years of experience with cars. Who has owned more then 33 cars, and spent a bit of time under the hoods of them.
No way to know, right? So have a great day, and thanks for bumping up my thread to the top!

It's fun!
Oh, and I see by your profile, you are a 'future' SCION owner. So, if that is true, you really have no idea what you are talking about, when it comes to this car.
But a debate is a debate; I'll try to go easy on you.
Originally Posted by McBain
The intake and borla are more for noise than anything else.. especially the cat-back exhaust. The intake might make a very slight improvement in airflow, but nothing woth mentioning. The catback is for looks and sound it does nothing more.
The strut bar is also questionable, do you have any proof that the chassis is in need of additional support? so probably all you are doing is adding extra weight to slow the car down...
See, after the CAI and BORLA, the car, when accelerating around curves, (or corners), would 'stutter' so to speak. The front end would want to move in a way that the standard stock shape would not allow for. The strut bar, (you know, designed by engineers who took into account what the gain in acceleration would do to the car), actually keeps the car moving smooth now, when accelerating around curves, off ramps, that sort of thing.
Now, I know this may be hard for you to grasp, but since I drove the car before and after the addition of the strut bar, I have the proof that I need. And, oh, BTW, the strut bar does not weigh that much. Something, isn't it? Modern technology…
Battery holder is for looks, no other value, probably more weight, but your wallet is lighter..
However. If you want to take it seriously, I will too. So, in response to this post, I went out and (since I have the stock battery tie down), and weighed both the stock tie down and the one I put on. And the one I put on…is lighter. By .02 grams! So, it will improve performance after all! It's lighter then stock! Thus making the car move that much more.
(If you can be serious about stupid stuff, so can I)
The shifter makes sense, but it is not more efficient as you shortened the leverage of the shifter which makes it harder to move, but it does make for faster shifts.
Your wheels and tires might be lighter, but the larger size will hurt you on acceleration. The lighter mass willl help the handling of unsprung weight. The wider tires will also affect rolling resistance , yet slowing you down even more..
I know this, because I keep a journal of my mileage. And, again, I drove the car before and after the change in wheels; you did not.
However, the new ones that I just put on? They are the same overall circumference as the stock wheel; how? Well, the tire is a ½ an inch less then stock; the wheel is a ½ inch bigger then stock. Thus, (and I know this, because I place the stock sized wheel next to the new 16" one), the height did not change. The new wheels are wider, by a bit…and the new tires are wider as well.
However: I'll ask you this: if wider tires slow down cars, then I would suppose that racing slicks on race cars would be rail thin, right? I will admit, that the wider tire grips more of the road, but not so much as to slow this car down. We are not talking a significant increase in width in tire size.
The aftermarket oil cap will only help by making your wallet lighter... It does nothing else for performance... The stock cap is fine regardless of where you live... think for a change
... If the engine block is 180 degrees or more, how is the Florida ambient tempeture of 100 degrees or so affect anything?
Also, what you fail to factor in, is SALT. Here at the beach, we have a lot of salt. I live right on the ocean. I have to wash the car almost every day; if I don't, the salt will eat the car up.
The salt, also gets everywhere. Even if you live more inland, away from the coast, it travels well. And salt, combined with the extra heat that South Florida has, makes for plastic nightmares. I have seen the result up close and personal on a 1992 Ford Festiva I had with a plastic oil cap. It cracked, albeit slightly, due to the high heat. And, this brought about a small oil leak on top of the engine, that I caught, so I replaced the cap with an alloy one. No problems with oil leakage afterwards. If I had not caught it, it would have lead to damage.
The only reason that cap cracked was the combination of salt and heat. Engine heat has nothing to do with oil caps and cracking. Unless you have a problem with your engine. And, for those who live in areas with less salt and heat, you probably will never have this problem. But for about $20, I got a oil cap, that will be like preventive maintenance. And it looks good as well.
But keep posting.... its good for something
What you do, or don't do, with your future SCION, is up to you. However, I do hope you gain some important knowledge about cars, especially this brand of car, before you continue to knock it.
Remember, it's the internet. You could be arguing with a teenager, or an adult with over thirty years of experience with cars. Who has owned more then 33 cars, and spent a bit of time under the hoods of them.
No way to know, right? So have a great day, and thanks for bumping up my thread to the top!
When you shorten the length of the shifter, it requires MORE force due to less leverage. I don't care what shifter you have, its just the physics of leverage. Try reading a book on it, you might learn something. You shorten the throws and the stick then you increase the shifting force needed. Pure science, and if you used tools, you would understand.
Well here in TX we have hit 113 degrees and it goes over 100 many days every year. The ambient temps under the hood are nothing compared to operating temps.. Try this little test... without starting your car, touch the engine block after having it sit in the sun all day. Ok, now start the car and run around for 20 minutes and touch the block? Now which scenerio is going to be hotter? Like I said before, pure BS, nothing but a dressup item.. What about all the other plastics? Radiator, battery, plastic cover over the valve cover.... so many plastic parts under there that you are not worried about.... seems kind of stupid to be only concerned about the cap if your theory were true... now who needs to modify his statement?
Seems like a strut brace is not really important on a car with so little power. They do help strengthen some unibody applications such as a mustang and such, but totally unnecessary with the box. More dress-up to try and impress huh?
Like I said before, when you change the tire size to a larger circumfrence, you effectively are changing the final drive, in thi case making it higher and making the engine have to overcome the higher ratio on take offs.
If you use a low profile tire on a larger size, you can equal it out, but you are still adding rolling resistance due to wider tires. This is fact and not just related to the xB.
As far as the borla... being a catback and having most of the exhaust restriction in the cats, it offers nothing in the way of performance.... nothing you can measure.... so believe what you want.... ignore the facts and remain happy... who cares
Thread Starter
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Fail, INC
SL Member
Scion Evolution
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,350
From: Here at my desk...
Originally Posted by VShalla
if i may ask how much did it cost to get that sunroof ??
Not much, but then again, more then some.
I think it's worth it.
Thread Starter
Senior Member



Fail, INC
SL Member
Scion Evolution
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,350
From: Here at my desk...
Originally Posted by Joehnn
I can't beleive all the crap flying on this thread.
It started out just being a great thread, about a nicely moded, good looking xB.
I still say boxcarwillie looks great.
It started out just being a great thread, about a nicely moded, good looking xB.
I still say boxcarwillie looks great.
Yeah, the crap doth flow. Too bad I can't just wipe it out.
I'll respond to McBain one more time, at some point, since he begs to be put in his place.
Even though, I am trying to be nice.
Thanks for reading.
Thread Starter
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Fail, INC
SL Member
Scion Evolution
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,350
From: Here at my desk...
Originally Posted by luvmyxb
Let me get this right- You spent $20 on a Festiva? Don't forget your hitch
Maybe not the fastest, or coolest cars ever, but they ran and ran and ran...We should all be that lucky to have a car like that.
Thread Starter
Senior Member



Fail, INC
SL Member
Scion Evolution
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 1,350
From: Here at my desk...
Originally Posted by McBain
For someone who has owned so many cars, you have a lot to learn, if that is indeed the truth.
TJ’ s Car List…starting with the first one, bought in 1978.
1. VW Beetle, 1968 ( White )
2. VW Beetle, 1964 ( Baja )
3. Oldsmobile Vista Cruiser, 1968 (Greenish)
4. Chevy Citation , 1980 ( 2 door Yellow )
5. Chevy Citation, 1980 ( 4 door Brown )
6. VW Bus , 1975 ( Orange and White)
7. VW Rabbit, 1975 ( 4 door Yellow )
8. VW Rabbit, 1980 ( 2 door Brown )
9. Buick Opel, 1970 (2 door Blue)
10. Pontiac Sunbird, 1980 ( 2 door White )
11. Chevy Chevette , 1982 ( 4 door Brown )
12. Ford Escort Wagon, 1984 ( 4 door White )
13. VW Rabbit, 1980 ( 4 door Brown )
14. Mercury Tracer, 1989 ( 2 door Silver,)
15. VW Super Beetle, 1973 ( Biscay Blue & White )
16. VW Squareback , 1973 ( Yellow )
17. VW Beetle, 1971 ( Blue )
18. Honda Civic , 1991 ( 2 door , Red )
19. Jeep Wrangler, 1990 ( Blue )
20. Ford LTD II , 1978 ( Brownish )
21. VW Karma Ghia, 1973 ( Greenish )
22. Lincoln Continental, 1968 ( 2 door, Burgundy )
23. Ford Probe, 1989 ( 2 door White )
24. Chevy Astro, 1986 ( mid - size van, Blue )
25. Ford Tempo GL, 1989 (2 door Light Blue)
26. Ford Festiva L, 1992 (2 door Red)
27. Ford Festiva GL, 1992 (2 door Aqua)
28. Ford Econline Club Wagon Van , 1984( Blue w/white top)
29. Toyota Corona Luxury Edition, 1980 (4 door brown/Gold; later Plymouth Prowler Purple)
30. Ford Focus SE, 2000 (4 door Metallic Autumn Orange)
31. VW Bus, 1978 (Blue and White)
32. VW Beetle, 2002 ( Cool White; Now 1973 VW Super Beetle Biscay Blue and 2002 VW Cool White)
33. Toyota Scion xB, 2005 (5 door Black Cherry Pearl)
34. Toyota Scion xA, 2005 (5 door Indigo Ink Pearl)
There you go, the entire list. That's the truth, bucko. Or are you calling a Preacher a liar? Oh, you didn't know I am a 40 year old Preacher, did you?
For the record, I own a TCM 05 xB but the principles remain the same regardless.
When you shorten the length of the shifter, it requires MORE force due to less leverage. I don't care what shifter you have, its just the physics of leverage. Try reading a book on it, you might learn something.
As many know, I have a TRD QUICK SHIFTER. Here is the blurb about it from the site: "Shorten the throw between gears and lose less momentum between shifts during aggressive driving maneuvers. Sorry, but it's for 5-speed xBs only."
The THROW, not the 'length of the shifter' as you put it. Again, I have one. Do you? If not, then you can't possibly know the difference gained by putting one on the Box. I can tell by your argumentative tone, that no matter what facts I present to you, you will see otherwise.
You shorten the throws and the stick then you increase the shifting force needed. Pure science, and if you used tools, you would understand.
Well here in TX we have hit 113 degrees and it goes over 100 many days every year. The ambient temps under the hood are nothing compared to operating temps
Try this little test... without starting your car, touch the engine block after having it sit in the sun all day. Ok, now start the car and run around for 20 minutes and touch the block? Now which scenerio is going to be hotter? Like I said before, pure BS, nothing but a dressup item..
Anyway, let me ask you this: If that sort of thing, a alloy oil cap was nothing but a dress up item, then why do high end cars have alloy caps? Racing cars as well? Hmm? Heck, why did my 1968 VW Bug have a metal oil cap, if plastic would have done? No answer, or at the very least, not one you won't fabricate to suit your needs. Listen. I spent the $20 bucks on an oil cap. I like the look, I like the added security of it. I'm not saying you have to have one, if you don't want one. So, why in hell does that bug you?
What about all the other plastics? Radiator, battery, plastic cover over the valve cover.... so many plastic parts under there that you are not worried about.... seems kind of stupid to be only concerned about the cap if your theory were true... now who needs to modify his statement?
Heck, I have a polished steel battery cover around my battery, since that prevents it from being punctured, and then drained, and then my alarm is pointless, so thieves can rob me blind then. You think that is dumb, no doubt, but here in the SOUTH FLORIDA area, that has happened to some of the Boxes.
A person here on the site makes them, Ivan. And others from around the country have bought them. So, I guess we are all fools.
I mentioned why, in an earlier post, why I put the alloy oil cap on my car. I have had experience in this area. Again, you don't have to buy one, or want one. I have my, very real, reasons for having one.
Seems like a strut brace is not really important on a car with so little power.
I just know, that I have found a significant difference in the cars handling before and after the addition of the strut bar. Heck, I notice a difference in the handling between my xB and my stock xA, which does not have one. So, again, you do what you want, believe what you want. I know what my personal experience is. You don't have one of these, to base your biased opinion on, from what I see here.
They do help strengthen some unibody applications such as a mustang and such, but totally unnecessary with the box. More dress-up to try and impress huh?
Like I said before, when you change the tire size to a larger circumfrence, you effectively are changing the final drive, in thi case making it higher and making the engine have to overcome the higher ratio on take offs.
As far as the borla... being a catback and having most of the exhaust restriction in the cats, it offers nothing in the way of performance.... nothing you can measure.... so believe what you want.... ignore the facts and remain happy... who cares
Again, I think that a debate is fun, but this is not a debate; it's a case of you deciding, for what ever reason you have, to not like what I have done with my personal ride. I have done my best, to remain civil, and to throw light hearted comments at you, but I have this feeling that you don't/won't stop with your jabs, so this is the final reply I have for you.
If you continue to mess up my little thread about my car, and my mods, I can't really stop you, but it would be nice if you just left the thread alone. It's a big site; plenty of room for all of us.
Have a nice day.
That's true! TJ is a people person foremost and a man of faith.
I am more with McBain on the science and all but...
theory tends toward dry and gray
green is life gold are sunrays
yet... it is theory that has made our way
to this easy life, so let us say:
all may enjoy gold green and gray
=co-exist, in peace, today=
.
I am more with McBain on the science and all but...
theory tends toward dry and gray
green is life gold are sunrays
yet... it is theory that has made our way
to this easy life, so let us say:
all may enjoy gold green and gray
=co-exist, in peace, today=
.
I agree with TJ. There is a difference in performance with an CAI and a cat back exhaust. Might only be a few horsepower. But some like their maze of an intake (stock) and their broom-handle diameter stock exhaust pipe.
It's not like TJ slapped on a can of Progresso on the back, punched a hole in his muffler and strapped an air filter to his throttle body. Everyone has the right to customize their cars in their own way. There's a difference between a constructive question and lambasting someone for their choice in modifications, but it appears that some people don't comprehend this.


