Recently I've worked on 2 xbs. Mine and a Friends. They have both had thier front rotors complely rusted to the hubs. To remove my rotors it took serveral hours of soaking in PB blaster and then a large rubber mallet to finally remove them. When I put pads on a friends xb I tired to remove his rotors, just to see if they were rusted, and his were rusted tight against the hubs as well.

Now recently I went to change a tire, and my wheels studs were rusted so badly I could not remove the lugs. After breaking one wheels stud off, I soaked them all in PB blaster for a couple hours and they finally came loose. The remaining lugs look bad enough, I just bought 4 new ones to replace mine with. When we did the brake job on my friends car, his lugs seem to have been frozen as well, except they finally came loose with a large breaker bar.

I was wondering if anyone had any idea what is going on. Both cars had aftermarket wheels and tuner style no name brand lug nuts. I was wondering if anyone else had the same kind of problems or not? I've never had a problem like this with any other car i've worked on, not even my 30+ year old VW.

 

as far as the studs i dont know but for the rotors theirs two little treaded areas on the rotors your supposed to put a screw their and that pushes the rotor off

 

Use some anti sieze the next time you take them on/off. A little bit goes a long way. I put it on the studs and the part of the rotor that touches the wheel. Doesn't appear to be doing any harm and it makes everything a whole lot smoother. Just a little FYI.

 

But do not put it on the wheel studs!

 

Why not on the studs?

 

Yep my rusty XB....also when Jeff did the otg's the hub's were rusted and he had tough time getting them off...I hope the XB doesn't turn out like the 280Z's I used to own

 

ya, I'd like to know the reason why I shouldn't be running anti-seize on my wheel studs also. Been doing it for years, on all my vehicles and never an issue. I also run a dab inbetween my hubcentric ring and my rotor and hub. I started doing this after I destroyed my first set of hubcentric rings getting them off after just two months to start running the winter tires.

 

First off, the front rotors and rear brake drums are pressed on the hub. blitz_xb was correct in saying a bolt needs to be threaded into that hole to press off both rotors and rear drums. A good practice to get into is coating the wheel mounting surface along with the center hub with a light film of wheel bearing grease, along with a dab on each wheel stud . A little dab inside the lug nuts. This will prevent any rust problem and give more accurate torque reading when you mount your wheels. Been doing this for 25 years with out any broken studs.

 

Just rotated my tires and yes they are rusted as well

 

Depending on where you live, antisieze on the studs and between the rotor or drum and the hub can be a very good idea, and also between the hub and the wheel. Dissimilar metal corrosion between the aluminum wheel and steel hub flange can be very destructive...

In the heavy truck industry, very thin spacers of hard plastic or stainless steel are often used between aluminum wheels and steel hubs, just to prevent them from becoming as one from dissimilar metal corrosion...

I like a light coat of the spray antisieze, and mask with just a piece of newspaper and some tape... Some of the spray alu-zinc primers work well, too.

Lubricated threads actually clamp tighter than dry threads with the same torque...