CiRiS

Hello Peeps!

Earlier this week I did a radiator swap/upgrade to an (unbranded) 2 Row Aluminum Radiator piece on my '09 xB Automatic Trans. In addition to the rad, I did new OBX piping, new rad fans, new Hayden tranny cooler and KillerGlass for your @$$!!! . I started at 5pm in the afternoon and didn't finish till the early wee hours of the following morning.

***If you get a 2 row radiator like the one pictured below, be sure to pick up a seperate tranny cooler as well due to the lack of inlet/outlet that's not present like the OEM radiator for the transmission lines***

This is not a how to but more of an info post in mentioning key points to consider and take note of should you want to tackle a project like this. Check the pics of the Aluminum Rad and the notes about it. A key point of this project is that both radiator inlet/oulet on the 2 row rad are 1/2" versus OEM which one of those lines would be 3/8". If you use this rad with the original OEM 'Y" piping that attaches to the top frame support, you would need to either find a compatible hose to where you can reduce the 1/2" to 3/8" or you would need to replace the OEM Y fitting with a T pipe 1/2" x 1/2" x 1/2" all around. (OR: If you wanted to replaced a cracked/ broken 'Y' pipe, you could replace with a 1/2" x 1/2" x 3/8" 'T' pipe and keep the OEM tubing)

1/2" x 1/2" x 1/2" T pipe (suitable for 2row rad setup)


1/2" x 1/2" x 3/8" T Pipe (OEM setup spec)

I'm not sure what effect having all 1/2" connections would cause (I think none, but I'm not an expert just a hobbyist) And so, in my case, I used a bunch of thick O ring washers from a Harbor Freight set I had and fitted it over the 3/8" pipping of the replacement OEM Y fitting, as many as I could of which I then covered with a thin layer of gasket sealer and let it set. Doing this essentially gave the 3/8" end of the Y pipe a 1/2" diameter of which to connect a 1/2" tube. Fortunately I had some extra 1/2" tubing from previous, since the OEM tubing would not fit the new radiator inlet.

QUESTION: Do you think I'm losing some cooling or not making the most of my cooling with the 2 row going from 3/8" Y pipe to the 1/2" inlet on the rad? Or should I switch T pipe and go 1/2" to 1/2" inlet; would that yeild better cooling?

(All of this might sound confusing at first but Ill add more pics later that I hope will help with those questions)

*** l'll be editing this post a little more to add pics and links to some of the hardware I used and where I bought them ***

Some of the hardware


Comparison of the OBX pipping compared to a cheaper 20 dollar set. The OBX piping is straight up quality and thicker even to OEM piping.



KillerGlass


2 Row Rad (Note that both the smaller rad lines are 1/2" verus oem which one of those lines would be 3/8")

KillerGlass installed, kinda (I will have to redo it proper) I'll post an update once I receive a slightly larger heat shrink clamp wrap for the thicc OBX piping. Why? Because the OBX pipping is thicker than OEM by about 1-2mm. The heatshrink clamp wrap used in the kit is specific fit for oem tubing. I used oem tubing for the bottom portion of the glass and the fit came out perfectly. I tried my best to work in the KillerGlass with the OBX and shrink tube and it was a bear to get it on. I think I managed to get it 75 percent of the way but obviously not well enough as you can a slight slip and bubble compared to the clean smooth look of the bottom half (not pictured)





RE-fit of the KillerGlass piece. The fitment is much better at both ends and looks great! This go round I even got more/safer clearance all around! Thanks to KillerGlass for their help!