Questions about 2008 xB complete Engine swap & Touch screen
#1
Questions about 2008 xB complete Engine swap & Touch screen
Greetings! This is my first post, as I am a new 2008 Scion xB owner. I got this one for $1,200 needing a new engine.
We plan to swap in an engine as normal, however I wanted to ask you Scion guys if there is anything special about this swap I should do or look out for outside of the normal?
Anything that makes this easier? harder? I have done swaps on other vehicles, mostly Hondas however. Is it easier to pull the motor up and out, or lift the xB and pull the motor out from under?
Also, the Navigation touch screen does not work. Are people replacing these with aftermarket models? It appears to be a special size.. is there somewhere I can get a stock replacement without paying $400?
Thanks in advance for your help!
We plan to swap in an engine as normal, however I wanted to ask you Scion guys if there is anything special about this swap I should do or look out for outside of the normal?
Anything that makes this easier? harder? I have done swaps on other vehicles, mostly Hondas however. Is it easier to pull the motor up and out, or lift the xB and pull the motor out from under?
Also, the Navigation touch screen does not work. Are people replacing these with aftermarket models? It appears to be a special size.. is there somewhere I can get a stock replacement without paying $400?
Thanks in advance for your help!
Last edited by MR_LUV; 01-15-2018 at 02:33 AM. Reason: typo
#2
Senior Member
Fail, INC
Scikotics
SL Member
Scinergy
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Failin.......
Posts: 615
You can install pretty much anything you want radio-wise into the Scions. They're designed to be easy to swap around.
The engine is pretty strait forward. I've been people take them out both top and bottom side. I don't think either is easier or harder then the other. Personally, I would pull the cowl and come out topside...but thats just me.
The engine is pretty strait forward. I've been people take them out both top and bottom side. I don't think either is easier or harder then the other. Personally, I would pull the cowl and come out topside...but thats just me.
Last edited by HATEnFATE; 08-29-2016 at 03:56 PM.
#6
Thank you everyone for your responses and sorry for the delay!
Our first replacement motor from ebay was a nightmare. They sent a slightly different engine with the vin plate removed!!!! Took 3 weeks to send it back. Well we got our 2nd replacement engine in and start her up today and it runs great! However there is a problem.
The second we turn the car off there is a buzzing sound from under the hood that won't go away till i disconnect the battery cable. Also with this buzzing sound, is a different clicking sound that is coming from the throttle body. We removed the intake and you can see the throttle body plate moving slightly open/close but only moving about 1/4 of an inch quickly. That is making the clicking sound. Both noises go away when i disconnect battery. I reconnect battery and everything is fine until i turn the car off again. The buzzing/whining sound seems to be coming from the transmission. And it changes in loudness when you shift the gears (automatic)
I read about fuel pumps humming hours after turning the vehicle off... but this problem occurs the very second the car is turned off. I did some searching but had no luck. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Our first replacement motor from ebay was a nightmare. They sent a slightly different engine with the vin plate removed!!!! Took 3 weeks to send it back. Well we got our 2nd replacement engine in and start her up today and it runs great! However there is a problem.
The second we turn the car off there is a buzzing sound from under the hood that won't go away till i disconnect the battery cable. Also with this buzzing sound, is a different clicking sound that is coming from the throttle body. We removed the intake and you can see the throttle body plate moving slightly open/close but only moving about 1/4 of an inch quickly. That is making the clicking sound. Both noises go away when i disconnect battery. I reconnect battery and everything is fine until i turn the car off again. The buzzing/whining sound seems to be coming from the transmission. And it changes in loudness when you shift the gears (automatic)
I read about fuel pumps humming hours after turning the vehicle off... but this problem occurs the very second the car is turned off. I did some searching but had no luck. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Last edited by pcbisnice; 10-06-2016 at 11:47 PM.
#7
If the throttle body is still getting power after turning the engine off then somewhere there is a wire that has been spliced to pinched to power it up. There should be no power at all to the throttle body once the ignition is turned off. I would start with checking the various grounds to make sure they are all solid. Unfortunately it's probably going to involve a lot of time with a DMM testing the wiring to see what is wrong where.
As for the trans noise I have no idea.
As for the trans noise I have no idea.
#8
If the throttle body is still getting power after turning the engine off then somewhere there is a wire that has been spliced to pinched to power it up. There should be no power at all to the throttle body once the ignition is turned off. I would start with checking the various grounds to make sure they are all solid. Unfortunately it's probably going to involve a lot of time with a DMM testing the wiring to see what is wrong where.
As for the trans noise I have no idea.
As for the trans noise I have no idea.
#9
More than likely, there was a change in some fuel management processor, where on your old one, it shut the fuel off when you turned off the ignition to one where the fuel pump was turned off my either a timer or some other input. Maybe you can replace it with the old one on the old engine? Either that, or you can just put a manual fuel cutoff switch in the car, which would also double as a theft-deterrent device.
#10
More than likely, there was a change in some fuel management processor, where on your old one, it shut the fuel off when you turned off the ignition to one where the fuel pump was turned off my either a timer or some other input. Maybe you can replace it with the old one on the old engine? Either that, or you can just put a manual fuel cutoff switch in the car, which would also double as a theft-deterrent device.
#11
If you are going to boost it that's going to be a pricey procedure to do it right. The toyota 2.4 is a far cry from a honda B18, K24 or K20. They dont take the boost as well being a low compression motor. I spend around 4K doing full internals and that brought my HP above 200 and then added a supercharger getting me 293 wheel HP. 300HP is about all you want to go if you want your motor and tranny to last. Sure you can boost it up to 500HP but have fun replacing the motor after it blows up. My opinion is if you want more power from the 2.4 just do an internal build. Some better pistons and more aggressive cams do wonders. It increases your RPM and compression and thus your power. My mods are as follows............................. DC Header And S-Pipe, Weapon R Intake Manifold, NST Lightweight Pulley Set, Weapon R Intake, HKS Blow Off Valve, TRD "VORTECH" Supercharger Rebuilt With Ceramic Bearings, RC Fuel Injectors, 10LB NST Supercharger Pully, AEM EMS-4 Standalone Engine Management System, TRD Exhaust, Vibrant High Flow resonator, AFE TBS, AEM Fuel Rail and Fuel Pressure Regulator, AEM Oil Catch Can, WALBRO fuel pump, Crower Block Sleeves, Crower Connecting Rods, Crower CP Forged Pistons, Crower Washers And Main Bearings, Crower Valve Springs w/ Retainers, Crower Cams, Crower Intake And Exhaust Valves.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
foxSCION
Scion xA/xB 1st-Gen Wheel & Tire
13
12-03-2003 05:40 AM