Well, here it is finally...









Not much room but my garage made DP fits!



Note that I had to grind away some of the alt bracket to fit the manifold over the studs. More importantly, I had to grind away some metal off the head or the manifold did not fit flush to the head. IIRC there's a TC guy with this mani and exhaust leaks. Maybe this is the reason?



My modified Boomslang harness with new FIC +12V lead going into the fuse panel and tapped to 'EFI No.1'.





My ATC fuse tap modified for a mini fuse. There are better taps but they are too tall and the fuse panel cover won't close.

 

Cost breakdown:

CXR Turbo Kit, Part One:

CXR turbo kit: $1300 shipped
AEM UEGO and Boost gauges: $400
440cc Deatschwerks injectors: $325
Labor to weld O2 bung into S-pipe: $100
B&M ATF cooler: $50
4 qts Toyota WS ATF: $30
1 gal Toyota coolant: $25
ND K22PR-U plugs: $8
Stant 14077 thermostat: $12
AEM 3" x 5" dry-flo filter: $45

Total cost: $2295


CXR Turbo kit, part Deux:

Treadstone mani (ebay): $110
Precision 5031E turbo (ebay): $550
AEM FIC (ebay): $300
Boomslang Harness: $500
2" 'J" charge pipe (ebay): $20
3'-2.75" 90* elbow (ebay): $30
Tial F38 WG: $225
Custom downpipe: $300
Misc. odds and ends: $100

Sub-total: $2135

Total cost to date: $4430

Hours spent: Don't ask...

Frustration endured: Don't ask...

The look on the face of the $50k sports sedan driver when he's left in the dust by a $17K econobox: Priceless

 

looks great!! get some numbers on the board lets see how it runs!

 

Well congratulations Fred and Im glad to see you stuck with it brah! You have a solid kit now and you just need to get the FIC issues worked out and Im sure all will be well. I too would like to see some numbers soon! You should run 10lbs!

 

What did you use for that fuse tap? Looks like a good solution

 

Thanks! Will do that ASAP. Gotta fix some crk sensor/FIC issues first and get the fuel tuned better. Hoping for 225-250whp (Auto).


Thanks Brah! I don't think my AT would like 10lbs very much at all. I'm actually hoping I don't exceed 250whp.


You can buy taps like this at some stereo/electronics stores, auto parts stores or online from Amazon, et al. I needed one same day so I bought a ATC tap at RadioShack and modified it for a ATM fuse with needle nose pliers.

 

Oh yeah youre auto! Im sorry. Run 7 lbs and keep it reliable and quick! Thats what I wanted to do on my tC. It'll still eat a mustang GT fo sho!

 

The crk sensor problem is fixed! I removed the 2.2K resistor from the crk inputs and voila! No more misfires, no more crk codes. Not what I expected... but as long as it works as it should, I'm happy. Part Deux is a huge improvment over part one. Boost builds so much faster and peaks so much earlier. I don't think a stock Mustang GT has a chance now...

The only thing missing is top end hp due to the small turbine housing and restrictive exhaust, but that's what I wanted for now. Maybe some day I'll get a re-worked valve body and free up another 25-50 ponies.

 

I really like your setup! If you ever have any thoughts of selling it please let me be the first to know k? lol

 

Thanks man! You're at the top of the list! LOL

 

Update: I was having tune problems where the tune changed from cold to warm to hot. Normally you should have some variation but this was extreme. It turned out that my AFR sensor was going bad. I have old logs showing it sticking at 5V and last night it got stuck below 1V. Normal voltage is 3.3V +/-. No, it's not my FIC O2 map.

So, I have a new Denso AFR sensor in the mail, a new GGP front motor mount and I bought 2 cases of Mobil One syn ATF. These are the latest supporting mods in my ongoing "It ain't budget boost anymore" saga. lol

 

Hope every thing works out been lurking around here and there motor mount will bring many vibes but still liveable. I've yet to get any cels on my tune but I did notice today that during idle my ltft is at-20 to -14 depending whether the motor is cold or hot but during driving I'm all good. About -7 to 3 and 11.5 afr to 12.1 in boost. my maf is a bit srewy I might have to try your maf map since it is the only logged xb maf everyone else seems to have the same tc one.

 

Thanks. I have similar trims and OL AFR on my tune. Everytime I've tried to get the idle trims close to zero it screws up the trims elsewhere. A higher injector response time might help a little. The wierd thing I've noticed is that my idle trims go from -20 cold to 0 when hot. I expected the opposite.

I discovered why my MAF reads so much lower than a TC. I had a chance to measure a 08 TC MAF tube and it was 2.5" ID. Ours is 2.75" ID. When I created my MAF map I followed AEM's instructions but found that some of my clamps were set too low. I keep tweaking it and it seems pretty good now. If you try it just keep in mind that it will affect your fuel trims because the clamps are lower. You may have to add some fuel.

 

Hey ScionFred, just a completely random fact I'd bring up. I think the reason why you had a P0101 is because the MAF tube/adapter you had was 2.5 inch diameter (which is what you said way back then) when it was supposed to be 2.75 inches. The reason for the P0101 was probably because it metered way too much air which effected the voltage being out of range. If it was 2.75 inches, you might have not gotten a CEL although you'd be probably running richer. Who knows now? But this tip might help future CXR turbo kit buyers.

 

That's a solid theory with 3 problems.

1) The P0101 code started the day I installed larger fuel injectors without any other changes and continued until I installed the FIC. This was NA with only a header and CAI that I ran for several months w/o any codes before the injector change.

2) My MAF tube ID only changed from 2.75" to 2.67" with the turbo kit. If I stated it was 2.5" ID, it was a mistake. Obviously the ID reduction could still be a contributing factor to the P0101.

3) Having compared MAF voltage logs NA and boosted, I can see that the MAF voltage changes are very small until boost builds at ~2000rpm+ and the metered airflow is significantly increased.

My personal theory is that the gen 2 ECU compares the MAF voltage to the fuel trims and if out of range, sets a P0101. Using the FIC to trim 15-20% fuel and clamping the MAF voltage to hide boost has eliminated the P0101.

 

I sure hope that MM is liveable. I guess I'll find out when the weather improves. I'm still confused about why the idle fuel trims are negative when cold and positive when hot. Air density suggests the opposite should be true. Maybe timing related?

I have a maf map if you'd like to try it. My first attempts were clamped per AEM's instructions but were too low. I've since raised the clamps in the low-mid rpm range and it works much better. On average, our MAF appears to read about .4V lower than a 05-06 TC.

 

1) I forgot about that. Whoops.
2) Yeah, you said 2.5'' ID, but I see that it was pretty much properly sized.
3) I see. Makes me wonder how treadstone doesn't get P0101's, or do they?

Anyways I just wanted to contribute to help those guys out who are looking into this kit. I think that a tune is obviously the best way to go, but there are other possibilities.

 

IIRC there's one XB2 SL'er running the Treadstone kit but he hasn't posted much about it. I too am very curious to know if it throws any codes. Maybe their combination of a small T3, bigger injectors and a 3" maf tube works? Personally I'm a bit skeptical of any draw-thru MAF tuned kit because of the large volume of post-maf air in the IC and pipes. I suspect that's what was causing my car to bog lean when first floored (pre-tune). IMO a maf tuned boost kit should be blow-thru but that's equally tricky to tune. The FIC does a pretty good job for the money but my tune is stuck around 90% and I'm finding that last 10% to be a PITA to tune.

If I could start over, I would buy a different car. For a little more than I have invested I could be driving a Ralliart, WRX, Speed3, GTI, Cobalt SS, etc.

 

I'm considering selling my custom turbo kit due to FIC problems. The FIC seems to work fine for several MT XB2s but AFAIK I'm the only AT XB2 running the FIC and can't seem to get rid of FIC induced misfires at high rpm. I may try the Greddy Ultimate but frankly this project has cost too much of my time already.

I'd prefer to sell everything as a kit but would consider parting it out also. The turbo kit has exceeded my expectations but the FIC came up short due to it's limited crk and cam sensor compatibility. The kit fits any XB2, MT or AT and has less than 4000 miles on it, less than 2000 miles on the cast mani, turbo and wastegate.

I'm just gauging interest at this time so please don't get mad if I decide to keep it. If not for the crk/cam sensor FIC problems, I'd be thrilled with it. It runs fantastic with the FIC bypassed but without the FIC, there is a recurring P0101 MAF CEL because of all the extra air being metered by the MAF.

CXR hot/cold pipes and SMIC (perfect fitment)
Precision made Garrett 5031E turbo
Tial F38 wastegate
Greddy Type S BOV (recirc)
Treadstone cast iron log mani
Custom 304/409 2.5" downpipe (perfect fit to stock exhaust)
AEM dry-flo cone filter
Brass 4-way oil Tee with all fittings
Braided black 12" 4AN oil feed line
5/8" silicone oil return line
Boomslang PnP FIC harness
AEM 30-1910 FIC w. base tune
AEM UEGO
AEM boost gauge (will include dash panel with gauges)
Whatever else I forgot to mention.

I have over $5000 invested. Make me an offer I can't refuse! LOL

 

Really sorry to hear, maybe you should just hold out till you can maybe get down to ptuning and have them check it out for you. After adjusting my maf map I have not had any cell in months, clutch just started to slip as I am on 10psi spiking 12 close to redline. Been taking it easy as work has been slow so gotta save money. I may pick up another motor to build and up the boost later. My biggest complain is the cx exhaust which is just too loud.