The CXR Turbo kit thread (Old pics on pg 3,4,5 & 7) Redux pics on pg 16!
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,387
From: Baltimore, MD, USA
Time for an update on my "boost on a budget" project. Although the oem ecu does indeed "work" with this kit @5-6psi with 440cc injectors, it has some problems.
1) During medium load conditions such as climbing a long, steep grade, the ECU goes into open loop and under these conditions, the AFR is too rich (~10:1).
2) When first "floored" the AFR goes way too lean (17:1) for a second and the engine hesitates or "stumbles" before the ECU transitions to open loop and corrects the AFR to a boost-safe 11-12:1.
3) Open loop AFR is not constant or linear, at least not in the right direction. The AFR starts out too rich and gets leaner as load, rpm and boost increase. Ultimately the AFR never gets leaner than 12:1 but it's starting point of ~10:1 is too rich.
4) "Knock" has not been a problem with 5-6psi, 93 pump and the stock ecu. The knock sensor seems to be doing it's job well enough.
5) Ever since installing the 440cc injectors I keep getting a P0101 (MAF out of range) CEL. The CEL doesn't affect driveability or performance but it will fail an emmissions test. It also turns off the VSC but I couldn't care less about that. Saves me the trouble of doing it.
IMO the kit would work better with the stock injectors but that would really limit the boost and HP. The kit itself is holding up well so far. No problems with any of the piping, couplers, clamps, IC, turbo, BOV or wastegate.
1) During medium load conditions such as climbing a long, steep grade, the ECU goes into open loop and under these conditions, the AFR is too rich (~10:1).
2) When first "floored" the AFR goes way too lean (17:1) for a second and the engine hesitates or "stumbles" before the ECU transitions to open loop and corrects the AFR to a boost-safe 11-12:1.
3) Open loop AFR is not constant or linear, at least not in the right direction. The AFR starts out too rich and gets leaner as load, rpm and boost increase. Ultimately the AFR never gets leaner than 12:1 but it's starting point of ~10:1 is too rich.
4) "Knock" has not been a problem with 5-6psi, 93 pump and the stock ecu. The knock sensor seems to be doing it's job well enough.
5) Ever since installing the 440cc injectors I keep getting a P0101 (MAF out of range) CEL. The CEL doesn't affect driveability or performance but it will fail an emmissions test. It also turns off the VSC but I couldn't care less about that. Saves me the trouble of doing it.
IMO the kit would work better with the stock injectors but that would really limit the boost and HP. The kit itself is holding up well so far. No problems with any of the piping, couplers, clamps, IC, turbo, BOV or wastegate.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,387
From: Baltimore, MD, USA
1 month, 3000 mile update:
The good:
1) 20mpg city, 28mpg hwy (lost about ~2mpg).
2) Drives like stock except much quicker.
3) CXR kit still working great (turbo, WG, BOV, SMIC, etc.)
4) OL-WOT AFR safe at 11-12:1.
The bad:
1) ECU won't budge from stoich (~14.7:1) AFR in closed loop.
2) ECU hesitates on CL to OL transition.
3) P0101 (MAF out of range) code persists.
4) AFR too rich (10:1) in OL under moderate load/low boost.
The ugly:
1) Nothing yet
Possible routes to "boost on a budget" nirvana:
1) Reinstall oem 370cc FI's and keep boost and power low (<6psi, <225bhp*). Driveable, relatively safe but very limited tuning and power possibilities.
2) Mod fuel system with Walbro 255, rising rate FPR and fuel return. Lowered FP in vacuum possibly keeps ECU happy with larger FI's, raised FP in boost keeps engine happy. Probably capable of 8psi and ~275bhp*.
3) AEM FIC and Boomslang harness FTW (300+bhp*) but not nearly as budget friendly.
I'm using bhp instead of whp because I have a AT which has ~25whp parasitic loss vs a MT, which is what most FI XB's are running. Comparing AT WHP vs MT WHP can easily become confusing.
The good:
1) 20mpg city, 28mpg hwy (lost about ~2mpg).
2) Drives like stock except much quicker.
3) CXR kit still working great (turbo, WG, BOV, SMIC, etc.)
4) OL-WOT AFR safe at 11-12:1.
The bad:
1) ECU won't budge from stoich (~14.7:1) AFR in closed loop.
2) ECU hesitates on CL to OL transition.
3) P0101 (MAF out of range) code persists.
4) AFR too rich (10:1) in OL under moderate load/low boost.
The ugly:
1) Nothing yet
Possible routes to "boost on a budget" nirvana:
1) Reinstall oem 370cc FI's and keep boost and power low (<6psi, <225bhp*). Driveable, relatively safe but very limited tuning and power possibilities.
2) Mod fuel system with Walbro 255, rising rate FPR and fuel return. Lowered FP in vacuum possibly keeps ECU happy with larger FI's, raised FP in boost keeps engine happy. Probably capable of 8psi and ~275bhp*.
3) AEM FIC and Boomslang harness FTW (300+bhp*) but not nearly as budget friendly.
I'm using bhp instead of whp because I have a AT which has ~25whp parasitic loss vs a MT, which is what most FI XB's are running. Comparing AT WHP vs MT WHP can easily become confusing.
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 372
From: Buffalo
Originally Posted by ScionFred
Originally Posted by andys09xrs
So I was reserching about cxracing and I found ur post I talk 2 rene franco since his shop is like 3mins from my house and he willing to put a turbo for my 09xrs do u recoment their work?
Originally Posted by Mach-box
just wire the fic yourself. its not that hard. plus it will save u cash.
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 393
From: NJ
Originally Posted by ScionFred
1 month, 3000 mile update:
The good:
1) 20mpg city, 28mpg hwy (lost about ~2mpg).
2) Drives like stock except much quicker.
3) CXR kit still working great (turbo, WG, BOV, SMIC, etc.)
4) OL-WOT AFR safe at 11-12:1.
The bad:
1) ECU won't budge from stoich (~14.7:1) AFR in closed loop.
2) ECU hesitates on CL to OL transition.
3) P0101 (MAF out of range) code persists.
4) AFR too rich (10:1) in OL under moderate load/low boost.
The ugly:
1) Nothing yet
Possible routes to "boost on a budget" nirvana:
1) Reinstall oem 370cc FI's and keep boost and power low (<6psi, <225bhp*). Driveable, relatively safe but very limited tuning and power possibilities.
2) Mod fuel system with Walbro 255, rising rate FPR and fuel return. Lowered FP in vacuum possibly keeps ECU happy with larger FI's, raised FP in boost keeps engine happy. Probably capable of 8psi and ~275bhp*.
3) AEM FIC and Boomslang harness FTW (300+bhp*) but not nearly as budget friendly.
I'm using bhp instead of whp because I have a AT which has ~25whp parasitic loss vs a MT, which is what most FI XB's are running. Comparing AT WHP vs MT WHP can easily become confusing.
The good:
1) 20mpg city, 28mpg hwy (lost about ~2mpg).
2) Drives like stock except much quicker.
3) CXR kit still working great (turbo, WG, BOV, SMIC, etc.)
4) OL-WOT AFR safe at 11-12:1.
The bad:
1) ECU won't budge from stoich (~14.7:1) AFR in closed loop.
2) ECU hesitates on CL to OL transition.
3) P0101 (MAF out of range) code persists.
4) AFR too rich (10:1) in OL under moderate load/low boost.
The ugly:
1) Nothing yet
Possible routes to "boost on a budget" nirvana:
1) Reinstall oem 370cc FI's and keep boost and power low (<6psi, <225bhp*). Driveable, relatively safe but very limited tuning and power possibilities.
2) Mod fuel system with Walbro 255, rising rate FPR and fuel return. Lowered FP in vacuum possibly keeps ECU happy with larger FI's, raised FP in boost keeps engine happy. Probably capable of 8psi and ~275bhp*.
3) AEM FIC and Boomslang harness FTW (300+bhp*) but not nearly as budget friendly.
I'm using bhp instead of whp because I have a AT which has ~25whp parasitic loss vs a MT, which is what most FI XB's are running. Comparing AT WHP vs MT WHP can easily become confusing.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,387
From: Baltimore, MD, USA
Originally Posted by Mach-box
Yea, and i am sure its much easier to keep clean....
Not that you can't clean that mess up with loom and tape but it looks like a lot of work. I'd be better off working a day off to pay for the PnP harness instead of spending that day splicing, soldering, etc.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,387
From: Baltimore, MD, USA
Originally Posted by homerhitta
TENZO CAI piping FTW!
Originally Posted by coryjames
lol harness from boomslang mid aug is what i was informed
Originally Posted by tainoxl
My exact symptoms with my FIC base test tune and 550 injectors, lol.
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 372
From: Buffalo
yea its only temp. i have my kit from todd almost complete. and i only left the tape on there to double check and make sure everything worked fine. i am leaving them on until everything is finished. then i will clean the whole bay up. i have a bunch more pics of the procedure. took about a whole day. but i did have to extend all the wires from the glove box to the engine bay. so yea it took a while.
Senior Member
SL Member
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 372
From: Buffalo
Originally Posted by ScionFred
Originally Posted by Mach-box
Yea, and i am sure its much easier to keep clean....
Not that you can't clean that mess up with loom and tape but it looks like a lot of work. I'd be better off working a day off to pay for the PnP harness instead of spending that day splicing, soldering, etc.
thats all the wires before we wired them. we used 96' of wire.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,387
From: Baltimore, MD, USA
Ugh! I'm not sure at this point which is worse... all that wiring or trying to fit the Boomslang harness connectors through the firewall.
If you don't mind me asking, how long did it take to get an "almost complete" kit from Todd? Any idea how much longer for the missing pieces?
If you don't mind me asking, how long did it take to get an "almost complete" kit from Todd? Any idea how much longer for the missing pieces?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 3,387
From: Baltimore, MD, USA
The ugly happened:
I'm putting the stock airbox and header back on tomorrow. It appears that my EGT was too high for the 16ga 304 log mani. I'm presently considering my options:
1) Weld and brace this mani
2) Get a cast iron mani, mod the pipes and have a custom DP fabbed
3) Trade the XB in and get a real performance car
I'm putting the stock airbox and header back on tomorrow. It appears that my EGT was too high for the 16ga 304 log mani. I'm presently considering my options:
1) Weld and brace this mani
2) Get a cast iron mani, mod the pipes and have a custom DP fabbed
3) Trade the XB in and get a real performance car
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SL Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 707
I'm putting the stock airbox and header back on tomorrow. It appears that my EGT was too high for the 16ga 304 log mani. I'm presently considering my options:
1) Weld and brace this mani
2) Get a cast iron mani, mod the pipes and have a custom DP fabbed
3) Trade the XB in and get a real performance car
1) Weld and brace this mani
2) Get a cast iron mani, mod the pipes and have a custom DP fabbed
3) Trade the XB in and get a real performance car
EDIT: By putting on your stock header/airbox, I'm assuming you're going NA again? Maybe you should show Kevin the pictures and see if he can do anything about it. You shouldn't give up too fast.
Last edited by FromTheOld; Aug 5, 2009 at 04:33 PM.
I'm putting the stock airbox and header back on tomorrow. It appears that my EGT was too high for the 16ga 304 log mani. I'm presently considering my options:
1) Weld and brace this mani
2) Get a cast iron mani, mod the pipes and have a custom DP fabbed
3) Trade the XB in and get a real performance car
1) Weld and brace this mani
2) Get a cast iron mani, mod the pipes and have a custom DP fabbed
3) Trade the XB in and get a real performance car
.PS. What about the 1990 GSX you were earlier comparing to? You can easily mod it to well over 200HP -- definitely "a real performance car"!
Thanks. Even at only 4psi it already feels faster than my 1990 Eclipse GSX with a 200hp turbo 2.0L that did 0-60 in 6.3 secs and the 1/4 in 14.7 secs. Driveability is great. No stalls, stumbles or hesitation. It drives just like stock for the most part. I think I got lucky with the injector size. I've heard that the stock ECU runs like total crap with 550cc but luckily, it seems able to trim enough for 440cc injectors.
I'm glad I did it. My only regret is the money I wasted on IHE mods that added so little. I guess I'll be selling a CAI, header and NST UD pulley but I'll keep the +2hp $400 TRD axle-back for show. Worth every penny, IMO.
I'm glad I did it. My only regret is the money I wasted on IHE mods that added so little. I guess I'll be selling a CAI, header and NST UD pulley but I'll keep the +2hp $400 TRD axle-back for show. Worth every penny, IMO.
!
Last edited by TrevorS; Aug 6, 2009 at 01:05 AM.