<Sigh>... most people who've heard the Pioneer and SQ10 in the same small sealed enclosures say the Pioneer plays louder and hits harder but the SQ10 has better SQ. If the Pioneer is too weak, I wonder if the SQ10 is any better. I only have 120wrms (160wrms@2ohm) to drive this and a new amp isn't in the budget.

I only listed those 2 drivers because of budget and availability. I don't want to spend more than $100 for a driver.

One last question: Given the small .3cf enclosure size, $100 driver budget and under-seat location (up or down-firing), which would you recommend? A shallow 10" like the SQ10 or a standard 8"? I think I already know the answer but I'd like your opinion.

Thanks again for all of your help.

 

I would go for the 8" sub. If i had to use a 10" shallow it would be the Earthquake SWS as a lot of the shallow subs actually require more space than conventional subs. There is nothing wrong with an 8" sub in a good enclosure, it just won't move as much air to get really loud but should be loud enough for most folks.

Glad to hear you are giving up on the C-Pillar subs. If you were to put a sub in there, you would probably want to look at the JL 6" subs. But there is a lot to overcome by mounting a subs there. Like making it secure and eliminating vibration. Just easier to go under the seat or build something nice under the spare tire.

 

That's the answer I expected. Unfortunately I screwed up my previous meaurements and there isn't enough clearance under the seat for a 7" box without modding some stuff under the seat. It's really more like 6" when the seat is all the way back. It might even be too cramped under there for a standard depth 8" driver.

I've come up with 2 box sizes that should fit without any seat mods:

1) 14x12x5" (extends over the rear floor beam and intrudes slightly into the rear footwell)

2) 14x8x5" (perfect fit between the seat rails and floor beams)

If built with 5/8" MDF option 1 would have a mounting depth of 3.75" and a volume of .3cf and option 2 would have the same mounting depth and volume of .2cf. Box #1 would fit either a shallow 10" or a short 8" while box #2 would fit a 6x9 or a pair of 6". I wonder how a pair of eD7 kv.2s or Tang Band W6s would sound in that little box? I'm sure JL 6W0s would sound great but they are too hard to find and too expensive for me.

So, it seems to come down to a shallow 10" in a box that's barely big enough for it, a single 8", single 6x9 or a pair of 6.5's.

If I did a pair of 6", can they both share the same sealed enclosure? What happens regarding power with 2 drivers? My amp is 2 ohm stable but would 160wrms be enough for 2 drivers?

Thanks again.

 

Fred, take a breath. Relax.

A 5" box w/ 5/8" MDF has 4-3/8" mounting depth.

The 14x8 box is a bit small. I've known installs where, to gain a little extra room, glassed the bottom, to increase the volume. I bet if you removed the carpet and padding under the seat, you could gain another 3/4" of height. And with 1/2" saved by the 'glass bottom, the volume would be 0.25 cf. And lastly, if you stuff the box with a little pillow stuffing (a natural volume amount, not packed but no empty area either), the slightly smaller volume wouldn't be noticed. And the added bonus it the vibes thru the floor and seat give the impression of bigger sounds.

If you cut the carpet cleanly, you could always return to stock without anyone knowing.

Both MTX and Rockford Fosgate have subs that could work, and in your price range. Check here: http://www.onlinecarstereo.com
I've not bought anything from them but their site is constantly updated for several months and their prices are very good.

Note, if that's still too much, the .18 cf of the 14x8 box is perfect for a JL 6W0.

 

Oooooooohhhhhmmmmm.....

Oooooooohhhhhmmmmm....

Oooooooohhhhhmmmmm....

2 Ohm load or 4 ohm? If I pair up 4 ohm drivers on a 2 ohm stable amp....

DAMBIT!!! I tried but I just can't kick this OCD!!!


Forgive me but won't I need MDF on both sides of the enclosure?

Anyway, modding the seat won't be a problem afterall. The spot-welded metal bracket that secures the little black electronic module can be removed fairly easily (hacksaw time!) and the module relocated, allowing an extra 1.5" of clearance. That means 7.5" of under seat clearance before removing any carpet and padding. The remaining wiring can be wire-tied up and out of the way.

I just ordered the 13-1/4x12x6-1/2" DF ebay box and an SQ10. I'll let you all know how it works out. For under $120, I've got little to lose by trying this.

 

any update on finding the rumion panels?

 

Well then, I guess you're set. That's not a bad choice. It'll sound just fine. You may want to experiment with some pillow stuffing should it not sound as expected. It slows the sound waves in the box and make the box appear larger to the sub. Congrats on making a decision.

 

Thanks. Now all I have to do is make this thing fit, move my amp, etc. I talked to eD today and they recommend a minimum of 1.5" clearance in front of the driver but the box I ordered only has 1". Adding some 1/2-3/4" spacers to the box or recessing the sub should do it. It's gonna be a tight fit but I hope it's worth it. I'll try to do a little DIY with some pics in case someone else wants to put a 10" under the seat.

Stupid question but should I trim the carpet back so the sub mounts directly to the MDF or just mount it over the carpet?

BTW, I've got a big bag of poly-fill in my basement from years ago. Glad I kept it.

 

Good question. I use closed-cell weather stripping from Home Depot (Frost King brand, found in a bag, gray in color, 3/8") to seal the sub to the baffle. I would remove the carpet under the lip in this case. Plumber's putty can also be used. It doesn't dry out, but would embed itself into the carpet for a complete seal. It depends on if you're ever going to switch subs or boxes. The plumbers putty would be difficult to clean up in the future (although it doesn't dry out and is reusable.) Also, if using putty, don't apply too much as it will be squeezed fairly thin.

In removing the carpet, don't "cut-out" the subwoofer. You should leave a little carpet under the outside rim of the woofer. It'll look better. BTW, many people have used the carpet as the sealing material without detrimental affect. But it depends on the sub (cast frames have larger squish surface than stamped steel, and thus seal better on the carpet.)

If you don't have any holes or fasteners, you should use machine bolts and "T" nuts. The "T" nuts are threaded tubes with a spiked flange on one end. You should tighten then into place (without the subwoofer) with a dab of super glue or epoxy to seal and hold. After the "T" nuts are all in place (the spikes embed into the baffle), then install the sub on the box. Using drywall or wood screws are not advised since the forces and vibrations will back or bust them out. When drilling the holes for the bolts, the bit should be ~1/16" larger than you think you need. This will allow you to be a little less precise when drilling.

 

Thanks for some great ideas, HareBrained. I've usually just mounted drivers right over the carpet but always wondered just how air-tight that seal was. If the carpet is rubber-backed, it 'should' seal pretty well I suppose. I've also used CC foam tape, silicone caulk and rope caulk before without carpet.. The rope caulk is very much like a string of plumbers putty. The SQ10 comes with a rubber gasket already installed so it shouldn't need anything else but I want to be sure the seal is 100% air-tight.

The 'T' nuts are a great idea. I've always pre-drilled and used wood screws but they are certainly not the best fasteners to use with MDF. I'm definitely going to use 'T' nuts and bolts from now on. Thanks again.

 

I see this is all from a while ago. Did you ever finish your project?

I think I want to try to put 6X9's in the C-Pillar, that's been my dream since i bought the car.

I would love to see pictures of your finished project if you have any

 

I gave up on the c-pillars and put a 10" under the pass seat instead.

 

how bout this.

This is a post i put up not too long after i posted on this thread.

https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...220&highlight=

 

Nice work! That looks so much better than the open cubbies or useless storage bins. It's still on my "to do" list but it's not at the top yet.

BTW, now I see why you needed a turbo... to haul that sub box around! Dayum that's big...

 

haha, yea i tell everyone that's the only reason i got the turbo and that the turbo just makes the car as fast as stock with the subs back there lol. the whole system back there is about 300 lbs