Car Audio Setup Pics required
#81
its actually my current set up, now bought off him a while ago
put a kicker cvr10 in the box cuz that sub was too big for box, hits decent for such small and versatile set up
#82
Superautobacs ? I can't find them on google. DO you know where I can find them, so I can pick one up?
Thanks
#85
Here is under my hood with Ixos Platinum battery terminals. They have 1 0 gauge, 2 4 gauge and 2 8 gauge on each. Yes I did the "big 3" on my ride. That 0 gauge going into my Tsunami 180 amp circuit breaker. Below that is the Cold air and my Siren for my Autopage alarm is near by too. I painted the CAI and the heat shield as it looks cleaner. The HID Ballasts are out of the picture but are mounted too.
#86
This is my rear audio setup, all work done by me. With the Kicker L7 12" sub in a custom made fiberglass enclosure fitted into the right corner of the car that provides me with ample bass which is supplied by the Boston Acoustics GT2300 driving out a continuous (RMS) power rating of 1400 watts into the 2 ohm load. The other amp not seen in the window is the A/D/S PH15 6 channel amp whick at present only powers the rears and the front factory speakers which I am pleased with. The 6 channels drive 55 watts per channel. Don't think this is alot of power? You obviously don't know alot about high end car audio. This is only amplified more by the Balance 8 channel crossover controlling the whole system. This is the AudioControl 6XS which was built specifically for my application. This piece gives you 2 sets of front outputs; front high ranges and midbass as well and rear channels and sub channels too. The subchannel gets a bass **** and all channels have a line driver. Line drivers when used in a clean application like what I've done will effectively double the receivers output voltage. I also have a car audio battery equal to 100 1 farad caps; the Shuriken BT35 and a 1 farad Monster cable cap for the 6 channel. The cap isn't here for stiffening, its here for the fact that high quality caps will also reduce the esr of the cars electrical field. English version; helps keep the cars audio path much cleaner.
#92
Why do you need an alternator? Just because? I guess it's not a bad idea, just if yer not doin spl its wasted cash. My lights never blink in my ride with or w/o the car running. I also have 101 farads of capacitance though. 1500 watts continuous on the sub channel (not bragging) and a 55 watt x 6 channel driving the rest. If you dump the oem radio your sq will improve.
#93
I dont rate current draw off *watts* as that can be misleading. (i won't go into why). I'm drawing 230 amps, that definitely wasn't designed on the stock, only a matter of time of the dial being completely open to charge the redtop, till it goes toast (loud whine is typical of a failing alt)
Save yourself the cash and NEVER use craps....oops, caps (I also won't go into why on this one)
I can guarantee you my stock pioneer is doing better on t/a, staging and imaging, and flat response than any aftermarket headunit out there including yours UNLESS your using an ms8, imprint, 360, or zapco unit.
Remember the RTA doesnt lie ;) I'll stick w my stock for SQ
Save yourself the cash and NEVER use craps....oops, caps (I also won't go into why on this one)
I can guarantee you my stock pioneer is doing better on t/a, staging and imaging, and flat response than any aftermarket headunit out there including yours UNLESS your using an ms8, imprint, 360, or zapco unit.
Remember the RTA doesnt lie ;) I'll stick w my stock for SQ
Funny thing is I was a Professional IASCA Competitor with all 1st place trophies in SQ+ and a perfect score on the RTA, also So. Cal Points Champion. I have a 1 farad cap for my a/d/s PH15 for noise control A Shuriken BT35 for capacitance 1/0 for power and 17 years of professional installation. Built 2 Sony Nationals cars that both finished top 2. Sounds as though you know very little if you think your bottom of the line made by the lowest bidder radio makes sound q. I would happily step in the SQ line on the RTA against that. I have a/d/s and Boston, not JL.
Now that we have wipped them out and done our measuring, we can get back on topic. I went the way of 1 battery, big 3 with Ixos and a Shuriken for storage and reserve. How much did the Alternator set you back? Also is it setup for a direct replacement?
Last edited by Released; 10-08-2011 at 07:04 AM.
#94
By the way in Pro Class SQ for IASCA when I was a competitor SPL over 130 db was a disqualifer. Also a perfect score is a 0 I still have my sheets from IASCA and the trophies. You should look into doin a custom box in the back to get yer trunk back. Just a thought. I know almost every shop in yer area that does the best quality fiberglassing. Most of them know me as River, ask around.
#95
Ahhh on come the ____ing contests MECP certified I am not, but without getting into detail, I will say I have observed some of the best Wout throwing any names out there, which I feel is irrelevant. My lowest *bidder headunit* you forget was optimized specifically for scion, with that said, SsP believe it or not flat out works for this vehicle, all theories aside. I will admit my stock does lack 24bit DAC, low voltage preouts (for full range), but as I said above, SSP optimizes staging, imaging and t/a which is my primary concern over all others.
Kudos to you for a/d/s.....and while I'm not a fan of their high end *tamed* comps, i will admit they're still one of the few sq oriented companies around. Btw what line of bostons are you using?
Shame on you for using caps and plumbers tape on an install though. Being MECP cert. You know all too well the variables of taxing an already hindering charging system ;) use a higher rated alt, and more *quality* batteries, which I'm sure you have already been taught.
Is my headunit better than all others period? Absolutely not. Is it better than most of the crap I have run into with all the bells and whistles? Absolutely.
I'd be more than happy to shock you with a friendly demo you will never forget, without having to throw out my boasts or accomplishments I'll make you a deal, if you can dial in better t/a and proper vocal imaging better than my next alpine imprint processor can, I will happily pay you @ your tuning rate
Kudos to you for a/d/s.....and while I'm not a fan of their high end *tamed* comps, i will admit they're still one of the few sq oriented companies around. Btw what line of bostons are you using?
Shame on you for using caps and plumbers tape on an install though. Being MECP cert. You know all too well the variables of taxing an already hindering charging system ;) use a higher rated alt, and more *quality* batteries, which I'm sure you have already been taught.
Is my headunit better than all others period? Absolutely not. Is it better than most of the crap I have run into with all the bells and whistles? Absolutely.
I'd be more than happy to shock you with a friendly demo you will never forget, without having to throw out my boasts or accomplishments I'll make you a deal, if you can dial in better t/a and proper vocal imaging better than my next alpine imprint processor can, I will happily pay you @ your tuning rate
By the way I worked as a technician for Scion/Toyota for 2 1/2 years and have done installs for Toyota Motor Accessories division at the Toyota University. I do know Scion pretty well. Scion and Toyota University Certified. I have references too.
Last edited by Released; 10-08-2011 at 07:37 AM.
#96
I'm not reading all of that because I'm about to go to bed. But I do compete in dB Drag and Bassrace. Just got done with one tonight.
dB Drag : 145.6 in ss 1-2 and I can Bassrace a perfect 139.9. Bassrace is a 30second average on music, so I need the extra current that a high output alternator produces. SQ builds rarely need an alternator.
Now does this say I only do SPL, not really. I'm continually working on my front stage and hope to go 3-way active as soon as funds allow. I've heard quality SQ installs, and I still prefer my bass a little heavier. I can still turn down the bass from the h/u because I can adjust the sub out level. I usually keep it around -7 to -3.
SQ is all subjective. I've never heard a car that pulls a flat RTA, but I've heard from people that they don't sound that hot...
dB Drag : 145.6 in ss 1-2 and I can Bassrace a perfect 139.9. Bassrace is a 30second average on music, so I need the extra current that a high output alternator produces. SQ builds rarely need an alternator.
Now does this say I only do SPL, not really. I'm continually working on my front stage and hope to go 3-way active as soon as funds allow. I've heard quality SQ installs, and I still prefer my bass a little heavier. I can still turn down the bass from the h/u because I can adjust the sub out level. I usually keep it around -7 to -3.
SQ is all subjective. I've never heard a car that pulls a flat RTA, but I've heard from people that they don't sound that hot...
#100
That is called back strap not plumbers tape. Lots of installers use it, I personally don't if its going to be visible but to each his own. And being MECP Cert has nothing to do with backstrap usage.
I'm currently waiting on my current setup to sell so I can pickup a 5ch amp, rear speakers and a couple 8in subs to run through my RF 360.2. As much as I love rediculous bass having to remove my box every single time I gotta go with my kid and wife somewhere is really geting old (plus it is hell on my back).
I'm currently waiting on my current setup to sell so I can pickup a 5ch amp, rear speakers and a couple 8in subs to run through my RF 360.2. As much as I love rediculous bass having to remove my box every single time I gotta go with my kid and wife somewhere is really geting old (plus it is hell on my back).