Connecting power to powered sub
#1
Connecting power to powered sub
Hi,
I got a '12 XB new last year and am just now getting around to working on stereo. Replaced stock speakers with Alpine 610/610S and very pleased with improvement. Plan to keep stock head unit, but would like to add a powered sub.
What I am looking for is an easy way to run power. I see that the Bazooka XB units (100 watt) run without running a wire to the battery, so there must be a way. I have not decided on sub yet, but not planning on huge power. Just want to add a little boost to low end, and put under passenger seat.
Any suggestions?
Thanks!
BIJ
I got a '12 XB new last year and am just now getting around to working on stereo. Replaced stock speakers with Alpine 610/610S and very pleased with improvement. Plan to keep stock head unit, but would like to add a powered sub.
What I am looking for is an easy way to run power. I see that the Bazooka XB units (100 watt) run without running a wire to the battery, so there must be a way. I have not decided on sub yet, but not planning on huge power. Just want to add a little boost to low end, and put under passenger seat.
Any suggestions?
Thanks!
BIJ
#2
Run it to the battery. The bazooka is a very low powered unit, but even it can be improved by running to the battery. Most aftermarket powered subs need the power feed that you get from the battery. The little bit of extra effort tin doing this makes a big difference in the longevity of the amp and the sound quality.
#3
Always, always, always run your sub/amp power to the battery.
As far as suggestions I always had good luck with these Kicker Hideaways when I was installing professionally, so long as you truly only looking for a little low end boost and not thumping loud bass. Fits easily under the seat and all necessary wiring is included.
And the specs..
Subwoofer (in, cm)8, 20RMS power (watts), 14.4V150Frequency response (Hz)25-120Crossover12dB/octave low pass at 50-120Hz;
24dB/octave high pass at 25HzPhase switch0°/180°Input sensitivity:Low level125mV-5VHigh level250mV-10VKickEQ boostvariable to +6dB @ 40HzRemote bassincludedBox Depth (in, cm) 13-7/8, 35.2Box Height (in, cm)3-1/8, 7.94Box Width (in, cm)9-3/8, 23.8Weight (lbs, kg)9.4, 4.3
As far as suggestions I always had good luck with these Kicker Hideaways when I was installing professionally, so long as you truly only looking for a little low end boost and not thumping loud bass. Fits easily under the seat and all necessary wiring is included.
And the specs..
Subwoofer (in, cm)8, 20RMS power (watts), 14.4V150Frequency response (Hz)25-120Crossover12dB/octave low pass at 50-120Hz;
24dB/octave high pass at 25HzPhase switch0°/180°Input sensitivity:Low level125mV-5VHigh level250mV-10VKickEQ boostvariable to +6dB @ 40HzRemote bassincludedBox Depth (in, cm) 13-7/8, 35.2Box Height (in, cm)3-1/8, 7.94Box Width (in, cm)9-3/8, 23.8Weight (lbs, kg)9.4, 4.3
#4
Thanks, guys!
By chance, do you have a link for a somewhat easy way to do it? All the ones I have seen make me say, "there has to be a better way". Like taking off the dash, the windshield wipers, taking out the engine (kidding).... I can't believe everyone takes the whole dang car apart to run a silly power line.
By chance, do you have a link for a somewhat easy way to do it? All the ones I have seen make me say, "there has to be a better way". Like taking off the dash, the windshield wipers, taking out the engine (kidding).... I can't believe everyone takes the whole dang car apart to run a silly power line.
#5
Thanks, guys!
By chance, do you have a link for a somewhat easy way to do it? All the ones I have seen make me say, "there has to be a better way". Like taking off the dash, the windshield wipers, taking out the engine (kidding).... I can't believe everyone takes the whole dang car apart to run a silly power line.
By chance, do you have a link for a somewhat easy way to do it? All the ones I have seen make me say, "there has to be a better way". Like taking off the dash, the windshield wipers, taking out the engine (kidding).... I can't believe everyone takes the whole dang car apart to run a silly power line.
Haha! Oh hell no, those are just people who don't know what they are doing, or are doing a whole bunch of other work at the same time. Just look for a rubber grommet in the firewall that has some spare space next to it, cut a slit in it and feed the wire through the slit to the engine compartment. Make sure you use wire loom over the wire, route it away from moving of hot parts, zip tie it in place at least every foot or so, and make sure you put a fuse between it and the battery terminal. If you have an automatic an old favorite of mine is to drill a hole where the clutch would go through the firewall, put a grommet in that and run the wire through there. With the xB if you really want to hide the wire you can go out through the side just above the kick panel and run it in the fender with the other wires there. This decently labor intensive though, as you need to remove the fender liner to do it.
#6
Haha! Oh hell no, those are just people who don't know what they are doing, or are doing a whole bunch of other work at the same time. Just look for a rubber grommet in the firewall that has some spare space next to it, cut a slit in it and feed the wire through the slit to the engine compartment. Make sure you use wire loom over the wire, route it away from moving of hot parts, zip tie it in place at least every foot or so, and make sure you put a fuse between it and the battery terminal. If you have an automatic an old favorite of mine is to drill a hole where the clutch would go through the firewall, put a grommet in that and run the wire through there. With the xB if you really want to hide the wire you can go out through the side just above the kick panel and run it in the fender with the other wires there. This decently labor intensive though, as you need to remove the fender liner to do it.
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