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How about Plasti-Dip in the engine compartment and on the nose?

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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 10:24 PM
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Default How about Plasti-Dip in the engine compartment and on the nose?

I'm thinking about using Plasti-Dip black spray on a Tanabe Tower Brace (the red tube only) and to coat the lower lip of the nose fascia. Idea is that it's a lot cheaper than a powder coat on the brace and would probably look good with it's rubbery flat black appearance, plus on the lip, it can easily be resprayed if there is rock chip damage. Finally, it can be removed by peeling if desired.

Any thoughts?
Old Feb 27, 2010 | 12:02 AM
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i tried it on my silver dash parts and it didnt stick too good
Old Feb 27, 2010 | 12:27 AM
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Sorry to hear that ! Three questions: How did you clean the plastic surface before spraying, how many coats did you apply, and how much drying time did you allow between coats? Thanks !
Old Feb 27, 2010 | 12:45 AM
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on smooth surfaces, like when painting with regular paint, you have to start out with light light coats. if you do light enough coats, plasti-dip dries pretty quickly (about 5 minutes). one tip though is if you are going to tape off a line or something, spray about 3 light coats, let them dry, and then spray a medium coat (or enough to cover the base) and then IMMEDIATELY remove the tape or the plasti-dip will bond to the tape and its a b*tch to get off.
Old Feb 27, 2010 | 05:41 AM
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yea, i've done wheels, my front bumper and my lip.

i also coated the trunk of my car to hide the ugly sound deadner, the stuff works great!
Old Feb 27, 2010 | 08:06 AM
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SHHHHHHH! If the Plasti-Dip people hear what we're doing with their product, they'll raise the price!
Old Feb 28, 2010 | 12:32 AM
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Originally Posted by davedavetC
yea, i've done wheels, my front bumper and my lip.

i also coated the trunk of my car to hide the ugly sound deadner, the stuff works great!
Fantastic! What's it like to wash on the nose -- any complications?
Old Feb 28, 2010 | 04:15 AM
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washes fine.
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