Rishicash

What about the rear? The mechanic says the rear shocks seem to be fine but I'm wondering if I should replace them while replacing the springs?? He asked if the stock rear shocks wouldn't be too long with the lower springs?? Btw, my car has 60k LA miles on it.

If you do recommend replacing them, what do you recommend? I'm going with the KYBs struts.

I have 225/45/17. Will this setup negatively affect the ride (not handling) quality? I'm assuming I'll get a drop of 1.7" front and 2.1" rear.

Last question. From what I've read a DIY spring installation should take about 1.5 hrs. I'm having the mechanic replace the struts anyway because they need it so how much time do you think it should take for them to do all 4 springs? I'm trying to get an accurate figure for a quote. If DIY takes 1.5 hrs. it seems like it shouldn't take him as long especially since he's replacing the struts anyway.

Thanks for all your input!

k1114

There's no reason to replace the rear shocks. The factory ones usually last more or less forever, and you don't even have to remove them when replacing the springs. The rear springs are an absolute joke - you can install them yourself in about 10 minutes with the jack out of the trunk and a 19mm socket wrench.

I'm also running 225/45/17 right now. The springs you've chosen absolutely will effect ride quality. The NF210 springs are much closer to stock ride quality if you want to minimize the impact, but there's still a difference.

There should be no extra cost in switching the front springs when doing struts, because you have to remove the springs to replace the struts anyway.

The only thing not mentioned is tire wear; the rear toe gets thrown out pretty badly when lowering, so you end up trashing rear tires much quicker. You can negate this by putting 1/64" shims behind the front two bolts of each rear hub. It's not a particularly difficult job, but if you aren't doing any of this yourself, that's an extra expense. That being said, most people don't bother and just burn tires faster (for reasons I'll never understand).

Edit: if you're really worried about ride quality, you might just consider the "ghetto leveling" option. Put some rear xB1 springs in the back and slap some 1/64" shims behind the hub. This levels out the car, improves the ride a little, and costs almost nothing (under $50 for xB1 springs and about $1 for a pair of shims). It's easy enough that you can do it yourself if you can change your tire.

Rishicash

"The springs you've chosen absolutely will effect ride quality. The NF210 springs are much closer to stock ride quality if you want to minimize the impact, but there's still a difference."

How specifically does it affect ride quality? Do the NFs give a softer ride? My understanding is that the NF drop 1.0" front and 1.7" rear which wouldn't be enough visually to make much of a difference I wouldn't think but 1.7" and 2.1" with the DFs would. Am I correct with this? I don't want to sacrifice too much just for the visual and that's why I am considering this.

Great tip on the shims and tire wear! Are shims something one can buy at an auto parts store?

So the "ghetto option" just lowers the back so that it's more even with the front?

Thanks for the thorough replies!

k1114

Nothing will be as comfortable as the stock springs. There's no free lunch - any lowering will sacrifice ride quality. The NF series aren't that much of a drop, but they're designed specifically to minimize the impact on ride quality (NF stands for "nice feel"). The DF springs go about as low as you can go on a static drop and still have a functional vehicle before needing to switch to air ride.

If you're just looking for a visual improvement, NF absolutely do make the car look a lot better, but without looking silly. DF give that clearly lowered more than necessary look, which I know a lot of people prefer. It's just a matter of how much you're willing to sacrifice and if you want that much lower look.

The shims can be had from about any hardware or auto parts store. When I started testing with shims I didn't know what size to use, so I bought a box of 144 various shims from Harbor Freight for $10 and then had the local shop recheck the alignment a couple times after I swapped out shims to find the right size.

The ghetto option just lowers the rear a bit to level it out so the wheel arch gap is even front and rear. I ran this for about a year and eventually switched to the NF210 set.

If I could do it again I wouldn't bother with lowering the front at all. Lowering on these cars really is just for looks; the biggest handling improvements come from tires and sway bars.

Rishicash

You've convinced me the "ghetto lowering" is the way to go. Since you such a font of information, do you happen to have a good source for Gen 1 rear springs?

k1114

There are several sources for them - you can find them on eBay, salvage yards, and occasionally they pop up on craigslist. I think I also have a pair of them here if you want to try them; just cover the shipping costs (probably under $20 if you're in the US)

Rishicash

I'll take you up on your offer! I live in LA.

You've helped me a great deal here amigo!!


I'll PM you.

Rishicash

Did you get my PM?

k1114

Sorry man I dug through my garage and my storage and I can't find either pair; looks like I must have tossed them some time in the last couple years. You should still be able to get them cheap on eBay.

Greg S

iTrader: (1)

Rishicash, since you're in LA hit up Jason @ Nightwerks up here in Santa Clarita. Pretty sure he's got a least 2 full sets of 1st gen springs, maybe more, at the shop. Phone number is 661-250-8464.