Clunking noise after I installed TRD rear sway bar? HELP.
I just got done installing the TRD rear sway bar and now get this clunking sound in the back. I followed healthynine's DIY and can't see where I went wrong. I checked TRDSpark's PDF instructions, and I swear I did everything correctly.
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...highlight=sway
Is there something I missed? The only thing I could think of is if I installed the bushings wrong... Which way is the slit portion of the bushing supposed to face? Upside down facing the ground?
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...highlight=sway
Is there something I missed? The only thing I could think of is if I installed the bushings wrong... Which way is the slit portion of the bushing supposed to face? Upside down facing the ground?
Originally Posted by D_Unit
I just got done installing the TRD rear sway bar and now get this clunking sound in the back. I followed healthynine's DIY and can't see where I went wrong. I checked TRDSpark's PDF instructions, and I swear I did everything correctly.
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...highlight=sway
Is there something I missed? The only thing I could think of is if I installed the bushings wrong... Which way is the slit portion of the bushing supposed to face? Upside down facing the ground?
https://www.scionlife.com/forums/vie...highlight=sway
Is there something I missed? The only thing I could think of is if I installed the bushings wrong... Which way is the slit portion of the bushing supposed to face? Upside down facing the ground?
So basically, everyone is saying I'm an "idiot." And YES, I have to agree! I bought the sway bar used and didn't want to print out the directions. I'm going to tackle this after work and will take pics if I still can't figure it out.
D
D
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 16,638
From: Parsippany, NJ
You're doing it wrong.
I'm sorry I couldn't resist. If you install it correctly, chances are it might be defective. My friend got a 25mm Perrin sway bar and it was warped, when one side was mounted the other was about 8 inches off.
I'm sorry I couldn't resist. If you install it correctly, chances are it might be defective. My friend got a 25mm Perrin sway bar and it was warped, when one side was mounted the other was about 8 inches off.
Don't worry guys, I got her fixed. I didn't want you guys to have sleepless nights knowing my whip was in bad shape, so have a good night fellas... Thanks for the support. Apparently a moron was the last to work on my car before I fixed it....
From Zero to Hero... That's me!
From Zero to Hero... That's me!
Evening All,
Same problem here - Passenger side "clunk" caused by the nut on the lower shock bolt loosening over time.
The basic problem is that when the passenger side of the swaybar twists, it is actually moving the swaybar in a direction that will loosen the nut. The driver side never comes loose because it moves in a direction that would tend to tighten the nut. Check it out and you'll realize what's happening when you see how the system operates.
Next time it comes loose (and it will!), I'm going to replace the lower shock bolts with longer ones (more threads) so I can add a jamb nut to lock it down mechanically. Thread lock compound would work also as someone here suggested, but it could be a problem getting everything loose when servicing the shocks later.
My $0.02 worth - Thanks.
Same problem here - Passenger side "clunk" caused by the nut on the lower shock bolt loosening over time.
The basic problem is that when the passenger side of the swaybar twists, it is actually moving the swaybar in a direction that will loosen the nut. The driver side never comes loose because it moves in a direction that would tend to tighten the nut. Check it out and you'll realize what's happening when you see how the system operates.
Next time it comes loose (and it will!), I'm going to replace the lower shock bolts with longer ones (more threads) so I can add a jamb nut to lock it down mechanically. Thread lock compound would work also as someone here suggested, but it could be a problem getting everything loose when servicing the shocks later.
My $0.02 worth - Thanks.
If you fellows follow the instructions from TRD instead of the DIY, you'll see that the nut MUST remain on the wheel side of the rear shocks. It just so happens the instructions flatly tell you NOT to turn the nut, instead turn the bolt, and then to reassemble in the identical configuration (unlike the DIY and another supposed installer post/recommendation I read in another forum.) If you assemble it properly, you'll notice the underside of the nut has ridges that engage grooves in the mating surface that PREVENT the nut from turning.
As soon as you say the nut is coming loose due to the normal action of the suspension, you are demonstrating your failure to follow the TRD instructions! If you either disassemble or reassemble by turning the nut, you are destroying the built in locking mechanism.
As soon as you say the nut is coming loose due to the normal action of the suspension, you are demonstrating your failure to follow the TRD instructions! If you either disassemble or reassemble by turning the nut, you are destroying the built in locking mechanism.
Originally Posted by TrevorS
If you fellows follow the instructions from TRD instead of the DIY, you'll see that the nut MUST remain on the wheel side of the rear shocks. It just so happens the instructions flatly tell you NOT to turn the nut, instead turn the bolt, and then to reassemble in the identical configuration (unlike the DIY and another supposed installer post/recommendation I read in another forum.) If you assemble it properly, you'll notice the underside of the nut has ridges that engage grooves in the mating surface that PREVENT the nut from turning.
As soon as you say the nut is coming loose due to the normal action of the suspension, you are demonstrating your failure to follow the TRD instructions!
As soon as you say the nut is coming loose due to the normal action of the suspension, you are demonstrating your failure to follow the TRD instructions!
My Hotchkis instructions were very vague...
Originally Posted by xseveredveganx
So what's the verdict?
Loose bolts on the bottom of the shock where you have to mount the sway?
Loose bolts on the bottom of the shock where you have to mount the sway?
But seriously, I installed the bottom bracket upside down which forced me to awkwardly install rear bolt. The awkward bolt was causing the noise as it was rubbing against the frame of the car...
Originally Posted by xseveredveganx
Originally Posted by TrevorS
If you fellows follow the instructions from TRD instead of the DIY, you'll see that the nut MUST remain on the wheel side of the rear shocks. It just so happens the instructions flatly tell you NOT to turn the nut, instead turn the bolt, and then to reassemble in the identical configuration (unlike the DIY and another supposed installer post/recommendation I read in another forum.) If you assemble it properly, you'll notice the underside of the nut has ridges that engage grooves in the mating surface that PREVENT the nut from turning.
As soon as you say the nut is coming loose due to the normal action of the suspension, you are demonstrating your failure to follow the TRD instructions!
As soon as you say the nut is coming loose due to the normal action of the suspension, you are demonstrating your failure to follow the TRD instructions!
My Hotchkis instructions were very vague...
. I value instructions since they make it less likely I'll make a mess of it. DIY's can be useful, but not when they conflict with proper instructions.)
Originally Posted by xseveredveganx
Somone else in CA I need to high five when I go out there...




