Nitto lower rear strut bar fits!
01-10-2011, 02:14 PM
#1
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Nitto lower rear strut bar fits!
Just letting you guys know the Nitto lower rear strut bar for the Yaris fits the XD. I just installed it yesterday. I took it for a quick trip around the block, and to me it feels like it has better turn in now. It's a little harder to install than the TRD sway bar, but that wasn't hard at all. Now my torsion beam is uber stiff. I plan on getting springs and shocks when I get new wheels, but this was just inexpensive and effective. I wanted to go out and play some more with it today, but this white fluffy stuff squashed that. 
You can see I paired this with the TRD sway bar. It fits nicely.
Down here we are not used to this stuff. It closes down everything for days!
You can see I paired this with the TRD sway bar. It fits nicely. Down here we are not used to this stuff. It closes down everything for days!
01-10-2011, 04:13 PM
#5
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looks good i might go for this now lol. i have always wondered if a good flywheel or clutch kit for a yaris would fit our car but i do know there are alot of parts that match on one car to the other just have to find what parts those are lol
01-10-2011, 06:42 PM
#6
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You can check part numbers. If they are the same they should fit. Different part number though can be a red flag, but not a deffinate no. Just use common sense. As for questions on parts from micro image, just email him, and he can help.
02-23-2011, 01:39 AM
#7
installing the rear upper strut bar for the yaris on my xd tomorrow.
i saw this post so i did some research of my own and found that the whole rear strut assembly for the xd is the same as the yaris. so i ordered the rear upper strut bar. I'm installing it tomorrow, pics shall follow. i plan on gettin the rear under strut bar next. that'll complete my frame stiffening upgrades.
this is what i will have:
- strut tower bar
-rear sway bar
-rear upper strut tower bar
-rear under strut tower bar
next is a set of eibach lowering springs.
this is what i will have:
- strut tower bar
-rear sway bar
-rear upper strut tower bar
-rear under strut tower bar
next is a set of eibach lowering springs.
02-23-2011, 03:42 AM
#9
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Yup, you can see in the pic I have both the TRD rear sway (darker red) and the nitto rear strut bar on (lighter red).
Xdrajicalxd I can't wait to see the pics, and your thoughts on the entire setup.
Xdrajicalxd I can't wait to see the pics, and your thoughts on the entire setup.
02-24-2011, 05:21 AM
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Wait until daylight, and I'll post a pic.
Ok here you go. Measured a little below 6.5" clearance (which won't change if you lower your car)
And yes it would be cool if the yaris rear brake conversion kit could be adapted. If only someone lived in California could drive to Microimage to test out parts to see what would work.
Ok here you go. Measured a little below 6.5" clearance (which won't change if you lower your car)
And yes it would be cool if the yaris rear brake conversion kit could be adapted. If only someone lived in California could drive to Microimage to test out parts to see what would work.
Last edited by Nateson; 02-24-2011 at 12:43 PM.
02-25-2011, 06:26 PM
#13
Nitto rear upper strut tower bar for the yaris fits the xd
thanks nateson, i think i'll get that after all. i'll be posting pics/instructions of the rear upper strut bar tomorrow when it's all done. it's a very tedious process.
02-26-2011, 08:36 PM
#15
Installation of the Nitto rear upper strut bar on the Scion xD
unboxed
after removal of plastic covers.
grip bottom bolt with adjustable wrench, use socket wrench to loosen top bolt.
in order to loosen the bottom bolt you must grip the flat part of the strut screw with an adjustable wrench so that it doesn't rotate, otherwise it won't loosen the bottom bolt.
a close up of the removal of the bottom bolt. This whole method can be avoided if you have an air wrench, but i didn't think about it until later.
after removal of both bolts.
strut bar over the strut screw.
put a washer over the screw where the bolts will go on.
you can either use one lock-bolt or two bolts. an air wrench makes instillation a breeze. tighten until it won't get any tighter on the bottom bolt, then the same with the top bolt. then place the socket over both and finish the job. Make sure you have deep sockets for this.
right side.
final proof that the suspension components for the Yaris and the xD are the same.
a Nitto rear upper strut brace for the Toyota Yaris, installed in a Scion xD
after removal of plastic covers.
grip bottom bolt with adjustable wrench, use socket wrench to loosen top bolt.
in order to loosen the bottom bolt you must grip the flat part of the strut screw with an adjustable wrench so that it doesn't rotate, otherwise it won't loosen the bottom bolt.
a close up of the removal of the bottom bolt. This whole method can be avoided if you have an air wrench, but i didn't think about it until later.
after removal of both bolts.
strut bar over the strut screw.
put a washer over the screw where the bolts will go on.
you can either use one lock-bolt or two bolts. an air wrench makes instillation a breeze. tighten until it won't get any tighter on the bottom bolt, then the same with the top bolt. then place the socket over both and finish the job. Make sure you have deep sockets for this.
right side.
final proof that the suspension components for the Yaris and the xD are the same.
a Nitto rear upper strut brace for the Toyota Yaris, installed in a Scion xD
03-01-2011, 11:01 PM
#17
thanks. i'm ordering the rear under shock brace on friday. Saturday i'm installing the NST lightened crank pulley. Then installing the rear under strut brace and the Injen cold air intake when they both arrive. The intake is an upgrade to my K&N short ram intake. Then at the end of the month i'm installing my light-weight racing seats, which i will post pics/instillation instructions for.
03-02-2011, 01:46 AM
#18
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I have the injen intake and the lightened crank pulley installed. I like them both, and I have pics of both (even took a pic of the weight difference in the pulleys).
The pulley can be difficult to install. An impact wrench is what I would recommend. I don't know if installation would be different for an automatic though. I tried removing the old pulley with just a wrench, but it would just turn my wheel with it. So I tried different things ( I can't remember what, I've drank since then), but even with someone in the car pressing the brakes while I wrenched on it I couldn't get it to work. What little progress I could turn the nut would be eaten up by the flex in the clutch springs (I assume). So I ended up using an electric impact wrench to knock off the old and secure the new. That little electric impact wrench I got from Walmart has been worth its wait in gold ($30). It's supposed to be torqued to something like 140flbs to 150lbs, but my torque wrench doesn't go that high. I couldn't do it by hand on jack stands anyway. So my thought process was if it (the impact wrench) could knock off the old then it should be able to secure the new. I've been keeping an eye on it, and no problems so far. My car is a manual, I don't know what yours may be.
I've enjoyed my Injen intake so far, but I am curious about the short ram intakes. Supposedly you get better response, but the cold air gives a little more power. I am keen to hear your thoughts between the two. Having the Injen intake I also bought their Hydro Shield. I have since removed the Hydro Shield because I've found that it tends to let moister sit on the filter. I have some pics if you would like. I think the scenario was either it sat a couple of days or it was just a couple days later. Either way, days after it rained I popped the hood to look at something and reached down. I felt that my filter was damp. I removed the filter with Hydro Shield and saw it was a little moldy and damp. After inspection of the filter sans shield it was just on the bottom. Apparently the shield helped retain some moister which accumulated on the bottom of the filter where no direct water would be able to reach. I believe I'm better without it, and hey might save you some money.
The pulley can be difficult to install. An impact wrench is what I would recommend. I don't know if installation would be different for an automatic though. I tried removing the old pulley with just a wrench, but it would just turn my wheel with it. So I tried different things ( I can't remember what, I've drank since then), but even with someone in the car pressing the brakes while I wrenched on it I couldn't get it to work. What little progress I could turn the nut would be eaten up by the flex in the clutch springs (I assume). So I ended up using an electric impact wrench to knock off the old and secure the new. That little electric impact wrench I got from Walmart has been worth its wait in gold ($30). It's supposed to be torqued to something like 140flbs to 150lbs, but my torque wrench doesn't go that high. I couldn't do it by hand on jack stands anyway. So my thought process was if it (the impact wrench) could knock off the old then it should be able to secure the new. I've been keeping an eye on it, and no problems so far. My car is a manual, I don't know what yours may be.
I've enjoyed my Injen intake so far, but I am curious about the short ram intakes. Supposedly you get better response, but the cold air gives a little more power. I am keen to hear your thoughts between the two. Having the Injen intake I also bought their Hydro Shield. I have since removed the Hydro Shield because I've found that it tends to let moister sit on the filter. I have some pics if you would like. I think the scenario was either it sat a couple of days or it was just a couple days later. Either way, days after it rained I popped the hood to look at something and reached down. I felt that my filter was damp. I removed the filter with Hydro Shield and saw it was a little moldy and damp. After inspection of the filter sans shield it was just on the bottom. Apparently the shield helped retain some moister which accumulated on the bottom of the filter where no direct water would be able to reach. I believe I'm better without it, and hey might save you some money.
03-07-2011, 08:23 AM
#19
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Location: Arizona
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Wait until daylight, and I'll post a pic.
Ok here you go. Measured a little below 6.5" clearance (which won't change if you lower your car)
And yes it would be cool if the yaris rear brake conversion kit could be adapted. If only someone lived in California could drive to Microimage to test out parts to see what would work.
Ok here you go. Measured a little below 6.5" clearance (which won't change if you lower your car)
And yes it would be cool if the yaris rear brake conversion kit could be adapted. If only someone lived in California could drive to Microimage to test out parts to see what would work.
If they just let me test out parts for a day/week, whatever. I will totally drive 500 miles over there to do it. i def want to get rid of this stupid rear brake drum!
