Yeah, I had gotten a new program uploaded to my Golf's computer and it gives more HP and more MPG (well, if you keep your foot out of it). Gas engines are new to me. I've never owned one. I'm not used to the strict fuel/air ratio that gas engines have to maintain.

Don't get me wrong... I seem to be getting about 35 MPG in my xD, which I am happy with. I still like to tweak it a bit. I also like the car to be fun to drive. I do "get on it" from time to time.

I guess I get as excited about 1 more MPG as other guys do about 10 more horsepower.

 

Just got all the add-ons done at the dealership today. They told me the shocks/struts were on back order, so I dropped it off for the alloys and short shifter, but when I went to pick it up, they said the shocks had arrived early, so they did them and the springs, too!

I got to drive it about 100 miles afterward, because I had to drive to VA to pick up a Christmas gift for my fiancee... the ride is rougher, but I like the handling. I guess I'll get used to the harsh ride... or maybe it'll soften up a bit. Anyway, I don't know about the mileage because I was hauling butt around the beltway at 70-80 MPH (keeping up with traffic). The readout said about 35 MPH, so I was probably getting around 32.

The short shift kit is AWESOME! The wheels (16" alloys) look nice, too... but I'll have to see them in the daylight to truly appreciate them.

 

do you think that the ride is so rough partly do to the new shocks/struts? also how much better would you say that these upgrades?

i only ask because i'm contemplating doing shocks as well, but if there's not that great of inprovment they i might not.

 

new shocks/struts are going to make a stiffer ride, which, i guess, you can say will make it more uncomfortable. bumps will be more noticeable because the shocks/struts are more agressive, and keep a stiffer ride. handling wise, its a great improvement, but if youre looking for comfort then dont expect much

 

Yeah, the rough ride is due to the shocks, struts, and springs. I knew it would be a rougher ride... that's the trade-off for more aggressive handling. I also installed the TRD sway bar that I got from TRD Sparks last night. The car is more stable on the twisty back roads. I didn't have enough experience with just the shocks/springs to say how much stiffer it is with the sway bar... but I did have fun on the back roads this morning!

I think the ride softened up a bit... or my butt stiffened up a bit. It does make drinking my morning coffee a little more difficult, though. I'm on the fence as to whether I would do it again.

 

I have an xD with the TRD springs and really I get about 33mpg and if doing freeway the highest I got was 38. The only thing about the springs is that it makes for a very bumpy ride. I am actually thinking about taking my off.

 

I just took a 250 mile ride this weekend for the holidays... and I got about 34 MPG (37 on the display) at 65-70 MPH with hills. Hopefully that will improve with break-in. I've only got 1,400 miles on the car now. I know my TDI didn't get top fuel economy until I had well above 20,000 miles.

With a little local driving, the tank average is up to 35 MPG (38 on the display).

 

Lol, that's because diesel engines are just being broken in at 20k. You said it was getting unreliable? Really? The engine was unreliable? Or was it the car, because VW/Audis are notorious for having random expensive problems especially with anything electric.

 

if the car becomes unreliable its because of some malfunction in the engine. obviously if theyre notorious for having "random expensive problems, especially electrical" if theres electrical problems the first thing you should check is your battery, secondly, your alternator, because thats whats used to recharge your electrical system. both are part of the entire "engine" system.

 

Yeah, exactly.

TDI engines are awesome pieces of equipment... there's no doubt about that. Like a lot of Audi/VW systems, they lose sensors and other electronic parts like crazy. There are a few potential BIG problems with TDI engines... and they are:

1) Timing belt. Most TDI engines meet their maker because of a lapsed timing belt interval, a botched TB job, or simply a failed water pump, tensioner, or roller. Any of these will cause a $3,000 to $6,000 repair bill. The TB job requires a whole set of special tools and a computer hookup to be done right. I have done a handful of them and they are no fun. I stopped doing them because of the risk of failure.

2) Injection pump. The older Bosch VE rotary pumps were not too bad, but they eventually fail like any mechanical part. A used one can be obtained for around $900 or a new one for $2,000. The install requires about 6-7 hours and includes a full timing belt job. See #1 about that. The slightly newer Pumpe Duse (unit injector) systems are even more expensive to repair and require a special type of motor oil that isn;t even available in stores. See #4 below.

3) Charge pressure system. The turbochargers rarely fail themselves, even though they spin at upwards of 280,000 RPM and regularly see boost levels of 18 PSI or more. However, there are numerous other mechanical and electronic systems in play here. The older a TDI gets, the more time it spends in "limp mode" with no boost because something in the system isn't working properly.

4) Oil. The older TDIs had relatively loose oil requirements -- synthetic 5w40 oil approved for diesel engines. The Pumpe Duse systems require VW 505.01 approved oil to protect the cam-driven injector system. The camshaft actuates rockers that drive the injectors, which produce nearly 30,000 PSI of pressure. Failure to use the proper oil will cause premature failure of the PD system, which will cost thousands to repair. Most VW dealerships actively remove all warnings about the oil requirement (including a tag hanging from the rearview mirror) and do not even carry the proper oil for use or sale. Many of the 2004-2006 TDIs will die an early death because of this.

 

After reading this post at length, I wanted to chime in with a couple of reason why lowering a car DOES increase fuel efficiency.

As mentioned, you are reducing the amount of air traveling under your vehicle. That does not sound significant, but the air trapped under your car is turbulent since very few cars currently come equipped with smooth underpans, like the new Prius.

Secondly; by reducing the gap between your tire and the fender well, you are also cutting back the turbulent air formed by the turning wheel. Picture a car in the rain and look at the mist coming from the inner fender, then notice one on a lowered car. More air is forced down and not out into the air stream.

Lastly and most important, most of you do not see increases in FE because of your perception of performance from such a mod. You lower your car, ergo you drive faster, corner harder, negating any benefits from the mod in that sense.

This is why on high mileage vehicles you see front and rear wheel skirts. These skirts divert air under the car instead of into the air stream preventing turbulence and thus drag.