Do I have a camber problem after drop?
I installed my TRD springs over the weekend and everything went well. Love the handling and drop from these springs. I went to get an alignment today and it was an electronic alignment. The toe was fixed to 0 degrees in the front but they told me that I need camber kits to fix the camber. Here are my numbers:
Front camber:
L: -0.7
R: -1.0
Rear camber:
L: -0.6
R: -1.1
Rear Toe:
L: 0.20
R: 0.35
Now I assumed that the rear didn't miss align due to the type of suspension? Are these numbers normal or is the mechanic just ____ting with me about fixing the camber?
Front camber:
L: -0.7
R: -1.0
Rear camber:
L: -0.6
R: -1.1
Rear Toe:
L: 0.20
R: 0.35
Now I assumed that the rear didn't miss align due to the type of suspension? Are these numbers normal or is the mechanic just ____ting with me about fixing the camber?
yeah, the rear is negligable on the right, a touch off on the left.. not a biggie though, if they were +off, i would say WTF did you do, but a tiny bit of neg camber is expected and ok in the rear. for the fronts, get yourself some front camber bolts.. about $18-24 for both shipped, if you look on the net, i have seen them for like $8 ea at the manufacturer's web site in the past. 1 set will get you about 1.5 degrees of + or - camber depending on which way you turn the bolt. you can also turn them part way in between + and - for no camber adjustment, if you go back to stock, w/o having to put the stock bolts back in. these are the bolts that replace 1 of your front strut mounting bolts.
One major thing to consider though before you do anything - Unless you got your TRD springs used and i will assume you didn't..... they have not settled yet. if you try to fix your camber issues now, in a month, they will be back out of spec.. let the springs settle for 3-4 weeks then have the specs check again before you do any camber work.. chances are after they settle completely, the camber and toe will be more out of spec.
One major thing to consider though before you do anything - Unless you got your TRD springs used and i will assume you didn't..... they have not settled yet. if you try to fix your camber issues now, in a month, they will be back out of spec.. let the springs settle for 3-4 weeks then have the specs check again before you do any camber work.. chances are after they settle completely, the camber and toe will be more out of spec.
^^ they sell "at the track" alignment kits, that will give you
an idea (given you provide the enviornment they require,
level ground etc.,.)
here: scroll down to the "smart camber" tool
http://www.smartracingproducts.com/alignment.htm
you can also find ones for 20 bucks that you remove the wheel, while the control arm is on a jack stand, it magnets to the rotor and has camber and toe bubble sites..
an idea (given you provide the enviornment they require,
level ground etc.,.)
here: scroll down to the "smart camber" tool
http://www.smartracingproducts.com/alignment.htm
you can also find ones for 20 bucks that you remove the wheel, while the control arm is on a jack stand, it magnets to the rotor and has camber and toe bubble sites..
um i have a question guys, i understand front, but how the hell are you changing your camber by dropping the rear? its a solid swingarm/axle all the way across the only way to mess with the camber their is with shims behind the drums on the backing plate. whatever cmber you have in the rear is stock, or you bent something lol
im pretty sure that nothing was bent. my car drives fine before and after the drop. so im also thinking the camber is stock. i guess the electronic alignment just picked it up, but im leaving it as is cuz most people here say that my numbers are within specs anyway.
specs for camber are as follows:
Front camber:
L: -0.57 +/- .75 (-1.32<x<0.18)
R: -0.57 +/- .75 (-1.32<x<0.18)
Rear camber:
L: -.95 +/- .42 (-1.37<x<0.53)
R: -.95 +/- .42 (-1.37<x<0.53)
you are within specs. stop listening to other people telling you things are bent or you are out of specs.... you don't need a camber kit in the front, but feel free to get one if it makes you feel better. it looks as though you already realize this though.
Front camber:
L: -0.57 +/- .75 (-1.32<x<0.18)
R: -0.57 +/- .75 (-1.32<x<0.18)
Rear camber:
L: -.95 +/- .42 (-1.37<x<0.53)
R: -.95 +/- .42 (-1.37<x<0.53)
you are within specs. stop listening to other people telling you things are bent or you are out of specs.... you don't need a camber kit in the front, but feel free to get one if it makes you feel better. it looks as though you already realize this though.
^^yeah i sorta knew that the mechanics were just pulling my strings bout the camber kit cuz i wasn't buying it. i just want to be sure that when i do get some wheels and tires soon, that those should wear properly with just our normal rotation?
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Music City Scions
SL Member
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 11,808
From: West TN - Land of twisty roads
Originally Posted by magicmanjk808
specs for camber are as follows:
Front camber:
L: -0.57 +/- .75 (-1.32<x<0.1
R: -0.57 +/- .75 (-1.32<x<0.1
Rear camber:
L: -.95 +/- .42 (-1.37<x<0.53)
R: -.95 +/- .42 (-1.37<x<0.53)
you are within specs. stop listening to other people telling you things are bent or you are out of specs.... you don't need a camber kit in the front, but feel free to get one if it makes you feel better. it looks as though you already realize this though.
Front camber:
L: -0.57 +/- .75 (-1.32<x<0.1
R: -0.57 +/- .75 (-1.32<x<0.1
Rear camber:
L: -.95 +/- .42 (-1.37<x<0.53)
R: -.95 +/- .42 (-1.37<x<0.53)
you are within specs. stop listening to other people telling you things are bent or you are out of specs.... you don't need a camber kit in the front, but feel free to get one if it makes you feel better. it looks as though you already realize this though.
Originally Posted by nolanneuner
after lowering my xb i got bad tire wear on the outside of the tire will camber bolts and an alignment fix this?
Originally Posted by nolanneuner
after lowering my xb i got bad tire wear on the outside of the tire will camber bolts and an alignment fix this?
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