how to get blanks?
:?: i would like to know how i would go about getting a wheel manuf. to sale me a set of wheels that have no lug pattern. they can do this i just would like to know if anyone has done this and how they went about it.
Why?
Depends on the wheel manufacturer.
I'm sure you could get some blanks from somebody like diamond racing or kodiak.
I think tirerack gets the kosei k1 blank and then drills them to suit the customers.
Depends on the wheel manufacturer.
I'm sure you could get some blanks from somebody like diamond racing or kodiak.
I think tirerack gets the kosei k1 blank and then drills them to suit the customers.
offset or lug pattern? offset measures how far in or out the wheel will stand relative to across the body of it. Bolt patterns are the numbers you just quoted, how about you get specific about the wheel you want, you'd be surprised what kind of wheels we can find as a group...
on a slightly different note..
SAN MARCOS!!! Hehe, I'm from Houston and went to school in Austin (UT) for 6 years and a couple of pieces of sheepskin, do you have your Scion yet??
on a slightly different note..
SAN MARCOS!!! Hehe, I'm from Houston and went to school in Austin (UT) for 6 years and a couple of pieces of sheepskin, do you have your Scion yet??
I carry certain Antera and Azev wheels in blanks that I sell out to shops sometimes who want to do their own machine work. Here are a couple things to remember when purchasing blanks....
If the wheel is exposed lug, meaning that there is no center cap that covers the bolt pattern completely, then it will look bad once you drill into it. The paint may crack, or at the very least, you will have swirl scratch marks around the lug holes where the scrap metal around the drill bit swirls around and damages the face of the wheel. The only way to get around this is to get your blank in a raw (unpainted) finish and then get the wheel painted, polished, or chrome plated after the machine work is done. If the wheel is a covered lug design where a center cap covers the lugs, then there is no problem drilling a blank plated wheel.
The other thing to keep in mind is that some wheels are pocketed in the backpad to reduce weight. That is why some wheels are available in 5-lug only. The pocketing is usually part of the original mold, so regardless of the bolt pattern, which can run from 5×100 for a VW to 5×130 for a Porsche, there are still 5 pockets in the backpad. This makes drilling a 4-lug application impossible.
I know H&R makes some lug adapters where you can go from a Porsche wheel, which is usually 5×130 ET50 with an 8" or 8½" width and converts it to 4×100. You'll have to check if they make a version that uses a 54.1mm centerbore to make it hubcentric for the Scion... I know they do a 57.1mm bore version for VW for sure. I think this adapter is 25mm so it will bring the ET50 wheel down to ET25 as the end result.
If the wheel is exposed lug, meaning that there is no center cap that covers the bolt pattern completely, then it will look bad once you drill into it. The paint may crack, or at the very least, you will have swirl scratch marks around the lug holes where the scrap metal around the drill bit swirls around and damages the face of the wheel. The only way to get around this is to get your blank in a raw (unpainted) finish and then get the wheel painted, polished, or chrome plated after the machine work is done. If the wheel is a covered lug design where a center cap covers the lugs, then there is no problem drilling a blank plated wheel.
The other thing to keep in mind is that some wheels are pocketed in the backpad to reduce weight. That is why some wheels are available in 5-lug only. The pocketing is usually part of the original mold, so regardless of the bolt pattern, which can run from 5×100 for a VW to 5×130 for a Porsche, there are still 5 pockets in the backpad. This makes drilling a 4-lug application impossible.
I know H&R makes some lug adapters where you can go from a Porsche wheel, which is usually 5×130 ET50 with an 8" or 8½" width and converts it to 4×100. You'll have to check if they make a version that uses a 54.1mm centerbore to make it hubcentric for the Scion... I know they do a 57.1mm bore version for VW for sure. I think this adapter is 25mm so it will bring the ET50 wheel down to ET25 as the end result.
I know H&R makes some lug adapters where you can go from a Porsche wheel, which is usually 5×130 ET50 with an 8" or 8½" width and converts it to 4×100. You'll have to check if they make a version that uses a 54.1mm centerbore to make it hubcentric for the Scion... I know they do a 57.1mm bore version for VW for sure. I think this adapter is 25mm so it will bring the ET50 wheel down to ET25 as the end result.[/quote]
this would work. H&R makes them? do you know what i would ask for/ search for. never delt with adapters that change lug pattern . so it will change lug pattern and offset? how much would these things cost? thanks for any info.
this would work. H&R makes them? do you know what i would ask for/ search for. never delt with adapters that change lug pattern . so it will change lug pattern and offset? how much would these things cost? thanks for any info.
I'm not sure on the price. I know Eric at Supreme Power can get them. I believe H&R calls them "Trak + Wheel Adapters." You can contact him at (714) 632-1951 or email him at eric@supremepowerparts.com. The only 5×130 to 4×100 I've seen listed so far had a thickness of 25mm which will lower the offset of the base Porsche wheel by 25. (e.g, Porsche wheel with ET50 will become ET25, ET49 will become ET24, etc...) The adapter itself is hubcentric to the Porsche wheel on the wheel side (71.6mm center bore) and hubcentric to the vehicle application on the other side. I only saw a VW one which has a centerbore of 57.1 so either we need to check if they make a 54.1 bore version for the Scions or you will have to get a custom 3mm ring with a 57.1mm outer diameter and 54.1 inner diameter to make it hubcentric. I think if you find some front wheels from a Porsche that are 8" width, you can pull it off. 8" with ET25 may stock out the front fender slightly, but it will be nominal, plus the rears should go almost flush so it should look killer. With 8½" ET25, the rears should be completely flush so you may need to roll the rear fenders depending on how low your ride is, but the fronts will probably stick out maybe a third of an inch or so I think... I'm guestimating on the final fitment, but comparing it to where my 7½" ET35 sits, I think my guess is pretty close...
Kendo is correct, you cannot redrill most wheels (and the FN01 included) because the casting for the 5 lug wheel includes the cutouts in the back mounting pad area. So even if you got a blank, you cannot drill it for anything other than another 5 lug bolt pattern. Of course, if you get the low offset 5 lug wheel, and the necessary 4-to-5 lug adapter to run them, you will be pushing the wheels out even further, which may end up causing a problem for you. I was actually looking at having 5Zigen make a custom run of their new dished FN01RC wheel (unveiled at SEMA, it's got the same simple, thin 5 spoke design, but the spokes are dished/curved inwards for a meaner, wider, lower offset looking wheel) in a 4x100 bolt pattern, and it can be done... but I'd need to order AT LEAST 80 pieces up front for them to even consider it. And even if they consider it, they still might not find it financially feasible for them to do it!
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